So my primary CoreXY is using a Duet 0.8.5 controller which I feel is working great, and I've decided to rebuilt my Smartrap Mini into another CoreXY since most of the rod lengths will work without adjustment, but it has me wondering what firmware for the Mega/Ramps setup works better with CoreXY? I had tried Marlin and Repetier at one point before the change to the Duet 0.8.5. Marlin isn't badby PDBeal - CoreXY Machines
Not sure, If it is a Prusa i3 kit, then I'd have to assume you have an Alunar 3D Desktop Printer Prusa i3 kit. And there seem to be a lot of build videos on Youtube for it if you search for "Alunar 3D Desktop Printer Prusa i3 "by PDBeal - General
It vaguely resembles the acrylic pieces in some of the Prusa i3 kits on eBay. Which the coarse threaded rods would be support underneath the Y axis, with the fine rods for movement. But that is just a stab in the dark only based on your picture and threaded rod comment.by PDBeal - General
Ok, I just did the same steps again, and I don't think its a fluke. Turned on the bed heat, Uploaded a GCODE file, pressed print on it on the Web interface, Then looked at the PanelDue. The heats were counting (On the Control screen), I then pressed the "Print" button on the 7" PanelDue and it changed to the print screen, yet the heats were frozen at the last display from the "Control" screen.by PDBeal - Duet
I think he's referring to the Thermal Runaway Protection that is in the Marlin firmware. It halts the machine if the temperature drops suddenly for say a bad thermistor or some other reason, although I don't know if it stops a print if the heater cartridge stops heating the hotend. It seemed to me to be more of a thermistor failure feature like the min heat and max heat stuff it also had in Marby PDBeal - Duet
So I noticed something last night, and I'm not sure if it was a bug or not, but figured I'd mention it. I turned on my bed heater to 80C from the web interface, I did this so it would start heating while I was slicing the models to print. I then uploaded the gcode file generated by slic3r using the web interface. I then selected the gcode file to print from the web interface. At this point thby PDBeal - Duet
I've worked out this as an option for the left. The right would be similar, but the pulleys would be swapped. I'll have to print these and give them a shot sometime, but it does require a longer spacer for the gap offset by not having the stacked pulleys. I am just not sure of the thickness of the plastic right after the aluminum extrusion to be sure if its strong enough for the belt tensions.by PDBeal - Smart_Rap
Have you noticed, if you move the Y-Slide all the way to the back the teeth on the belts start to line up. I'm wondering about redesigning the pulleys to offset one outside and one inside to stop the teeth from lining up. It's not a huge deal on the 200x200 ALU design, but increasing the size of the aluminum starts to notice this more and more. I've also had to redesign the y-slide brackets toby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
So I disassembled my Smartrap Mini the other day and noticed the rod sizes are very close to the sizes needed on the Smartrapcore ALU. This got me thinking, so I've adapted the design of the Smartrapcore ALU to use the rods and bearings from the Smartrap Mini that I have. It was using (4) 6mm rods and (2) 8mm rods, and looking at the design I've used the existing 8mm rods as the Y-axis. This gby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
Wouldn't the width be different depending on how much filament is hanging from your hotend, as it gets longer, I'd imagine gravity will pull it down more so than if it was fresh out of the nozzle. I've also seen right as it starts to extruder in mid air it begins to overlap itself at first and then finally begin to fall slowly which in turn would also affect the width of the extruded filament.by PDBeal - Printing
QuoteDavid J I use 230-240C for the nozzle, and 60-70C for the bed. I also print at half the speed I use for other filaments, otherwise it doesn't come out very well. Do you change anything with your retraction settings? When I print, I sometimes get a lot of very tiny strings, almost hair like, but I didn't change any speeds only temps.by PDBeal - Reprappers
Ah, I found my issue. There was a small piece of orange kapton tape under the glass that was under the area that was being squashed which I presume would interfere with the IR probe. The kapton tape was covering the electrical connections of the MK2b PCB. Once I peeled this piece of tape off, it wasn't squashing that corner anymore and I could see the Z axis moving ever so slightly. This wasby PDBeal - Duet
Depends if your talking 1.75 filament or 3.0 filament. E3D V6 1.75 Universal (Direct or Bowden) drawing E3D V6 3.0 Direct drawing E3D V6 3.0 Bowden drawing According to the wiki drawings, the E3D V6 1.75 direct or bowden are the same physical size at 62.3mm. The E3D V6 3.0 direct is also 62.3, but the E3D V6 3.0 Bowden is shown as 65.6mm with a 1.6mm bowden clip. That being said, it only appeby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
I saw this error on my Mega / Ramps setup once, I wasn't using the SD card either, but I plugged a blank one in and that error no longer showed up. When I saw it, it didn't disable my printer, but could be worth a shot if you have an SD card laying around.by PDBeal - General
Is that using bed.g or the M557 points? I know there's not supposed to be any difference, but it has me wondering if I create a bed.g and see if there's a change. If it's a bed.g file, any chance you can attach a copy of it? I've seen on the wiki about a few samples, but it seems to be more complex than the 4 M557 lines in config.g.by PDBeal - Duet
Is there anything I needed to put in my config.g file to enable bed compensation beyond the M557 points? At this point I'm only using M557 and then the G32 command in my start script, but now you have me wondering if I'm missing something else to enable the z plane offset.by PDBeal - Duet
Usually, in my start code in slic3r, I have it turn on the heat and wait for temperatures before homing axis and such. Its probably personal preference, but you could always manually home the axis, turn on your heats, and then just have your gcode contain the commands to print but I prefer to let it spend more time with a "self" setup before every print.by PDBeal - Ormerod
QuoteHarveyC I've been using PET-G for some time now. I use a glass bed on both of my printers, heated to 70 deg C, with the hot ends running at 200. It sticks well and I usually have to wait for the bed to cool a bit before the job will release. I've not had the 'filament bending' issue but the hobbed nut on both of my extruders is quite close to the tops of the hot ends. Harvey I didn't thinkby PDBeal - Reprappers
No, my machine was a Smartfrendz ALU kit that I've since put the Duet 0.8.5 controller on. The Z axis is a GT2 Belt with 20 teeth and a 608 bearing. I would have thought it was moving too, but I don't see it move at all besides layers and retraction. Is there any way to check and see if G32 has modified the Z plane, or modified the Z points? Is it worth trying an older firmware to double checby PDBeal - Duet
So after moving the head around to my 4 points and adjusting the 3 leveling spring screws, it triggers the Z probe around 0.60-0.63 for all 4 corners. I kept moving Z to 10, then doing G30 S-1 to get a distance on each corner. Sometimes they report 0.61 other times it reports 0.60 depending on the corner and other corners with no screw seem to report 0.62-0.63. At this point I think this is thby PDBeal - Duet
I had a similar issue till I switched to the Thingiverse bowden extruder. When I put it together, there is almost no gap between the filament coming into the MK8 gear and then almost no gap going out to the bowden tube (and I didn't bother with the MR105ZZ bearing either as I wanted to be able to see the MK8 gear moving). At first glance, I wasn't even sure there was a path for the filament, buby PDBeal - Reprappers
I've started printing with PETG, and so far it's been as simple as PLA for me. I'm using a bowden setup on my CoreXY from Thingiverse. This one works with the MK8 gear (despite the thingiverse page saying MK7) and I've had no issues between PLA or PETG with it. If you notice, its encapsulated the filament the entire path which I contribute to my non-issues. I had another bowden that used to cby PDBeal - Reprappers
Checking Z Probe trigger height would be the same as the calibration when I send it a G30 S-1? skipping the G92 Z0 part? And as I watch it, its not moving Z at all until layer change or retractions happen.by PDBeal - Duet
So I've started to print some larger items on the bed and noticed one corner of the print appears to be squashed compared to the other corners of the bed. I've checked the bed level with a spirit level and it looks really good, but I have not checked it with various Z probe points. However, I'm using G32 after a G28, so I would have thought it would have adjusted accordingly. I do see this mesby PDBeal - Duet
One thing I've run into. I'm reprinting my ALU parts with PETG and it is as easy as PLA, but I think I have an issue with my slicer config. The teeth in the head are not really defined well and the belts are a pain in the butt to slide in. I've printed the head part on a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus and the belts slide in without an issue. I definitely think this is a slicer issue. Have you had any iby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
Ha, I never thought about the smart phone having an app for frequency tuning. We use frequency tuning for motor belts in the manufacturing plant that I work for when they do maintenance on some of the motors. It would at least give you an idea if your belt tension is the same on multiple belts, but your right, based on the length, you'd have to calculate what it should be.by PDBeal - Smart_Rap
I ended up ordering a power supply from Amazon. It was cheap and its been working great so far. Fan only comes on when the powersupply needs it which does reduce the noise from the whole setup. Plus, with one this size, I'm good for other additions in the future. I didn't have much luck getting any sort of "support" from Smartfriendz, but some of that could have been time difference between tby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
The powersupply unit they sent me isn't anywhere large enough to run the ramps and the heatbed either. Although, with the kit and some of his videos, I'm not so sure the heatbed wasn't just an addition to the kit because of other people's kits. In most of his videos and documentation he talks about printing on hairspray or glue and blue painter's tape, which I tried with the Smartrap mini. Howby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
When I first attached the heatbed, I found the site Heatbeds - A beginner's guide from the Reprap Wiki very useful specifically around the firmware settings that you have to make for a heatbed. I would recommend looking at those settings listed on the wiki page and seeing if you have them configured within your Marlin configuration.h file.by PDBeal - Smart_Rap
I tried to connect to the Duet Web Control with my iPad Air2 last night and noticed it didn't quite work right. The screen was presented, but there was no pop-up for a password, and the it would not connect. I know the site is using AJAX, and I know there are issues with AJAX not working with iOS devices and I believe with Safari, so I'd safe it is safe to assume the pictures from the mobile onby PDBeal - Duet