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Hi Booey.
Many people have asked for parts.
Unfortunately, at the moment, it takes considerable effort and time to print off a complete set of parts for a reprap. Most of those with a working reprap are also working hard on their own projects and maintaining their own repraps, so have limited time and effort. This means that it often takes a personal connection to get the process started.
How
by
DaveR
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Wanted
Hi Joe.
Many people have asked for parts.
Unfortunately, at the moment, it takes considerable effort and time to print off a complete set of parts for a reprap. Most of those with a working reprap are also working hard on their own projects and maintaining their own repraps, so have limited time and effort. This means that it often takes a personal connection to get the process started.
Howev
by
DaveR
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For Sale
If you have kapton tape, you can use that to insulate the nichrome. Wind kapton round the barrel, then carefully wind the nichrome, then more kapton, then more nichrome (if you need to wind more).
Make sure that none of the nichrome coils are touching.
I've build a couple of 'heating blocks' using wirewound resistors - and they work well. They're a bit harder to make, but they work.
You need so
by
DaveR
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Mechanics
Nice work! Congrats on getting it all working!
I don't think your nozzle is particularly large - most I've heard about are 0.4-0.6.
I'm assuming that distortion is caused by the layer start/end. If so,\ there might be some benefit in examining the start/stop timing.
Also, you could try a filled object - especially if you can use the new host software, which starts in the middle of the internal
by
DaveR
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RepRap Host
I know what you mean. It's a lot of postage.
I've been thinking about possibly getting some UK PCBs made up too. However, it's difficult to justify - I have a working set of gen 2 electronics - getting a gen3 set 'because I want to'.
:-)
Does anyone else have experience getting boards made up?
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DaveR
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United Kingdom RepRap User Group
There are some notes on
You will need the java3d and rxtx libraries.
Good luck :-)
by
DaveR
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RepRap Host
This sounds similar to a problem I had with the arduino.... - here's my notes from the builders wiki:
Arduino Firmware using Ubuntu Linux
After downloading the linux firmware from the arduino site, If you cannot select the ttyUSB0 port from the arduino software menu - the entire tools/serial port menu is greyed out - the it could be a permission problem for /dev/ttyUSB0 If you run as root
sud
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DaveR
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RepRap Host
I've been using two 12ohm resistors
(http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1109309)
in parallel to make a single 6ohm heater. Both resistors are embedded into a single block of mild steel, wrapped in foil and forced into 7.5mm holes.
This takes a few minutes to warm up to 220C, but once there is much easier to maintain at that temp because of the thermal inertia of a big bloc
by
DaveR
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Controllers
Hi Bruce.
RepRap Guru NopHead has just finished a set of parts for a good cause:
totalling over 75 hours build time, not including mistakes. It's a lot of effort to print out, so it's usually limited to close friends or someone with a vested interest, so I'm not too surprised.
If I were you, I'd get my hands on one of your CNC platforms, and build a simple extruder to go on it - like a mcwire
by
DaveR
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Reprappers
Standard remote controls use IR, so if you point a TV remote at a camera you can see whether IR is picked up or not on the preview. Video cameras with a low light facility often use IR lighting and IR sensitivity.
by
DaveR
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Controllers
The host won't run if there are libs missing.
I know there's a min temp for the heater, but you can normally still move the steppers.
My guess might be a power issue? try disconnecting the heater and steppers - do the driver lights still flash?
You could also load up ReplicatorG - if you've got gcode firmware - you can see whether it's the software or firmware side.
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DaveR
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RepRap Host
Yep, you need to connect the green wire of the motherboard sensor to ground (black). See the RepRap instructions:
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DaveR
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Controllers
I don't mind ideas! It's just the implied expectation that somehow someone else is going to magically find time to do all the difficult research and development for you.
Edison claimed "Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration.". It's developing a concept into a working prototype that's the difficult bit.
:-)
I think what you're suggesting is adding another x-y axis to a reprap with a prin
by
DaveR
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General
values of random 255 or 0 is normally indicating an unconnected input. Since you can read the temp in some tests OK, check your pin numbers in pins.h in the firmware against the wires.
It sounds like you've done that, though.
Restart the host, watching for connect errors in the terminal window....
Are you using the gcode or SNAP firmware: sometimes the settings are in different places?
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DaveR
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RepRap Host
Green LED looks OK to me.
I'd bet that most generic LEDs would work OK in the circuit - they're only for indication.
Electronics can sometimes be very forgiving in values of components, and as long as the LED lights up, you're good.
I've got a maplin mixed bag of LEDs (about 30 different types) for playing with, and they all seem to be very similar.
Good luck! I hope you manage to find every
by
DaveR
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Controllers
OK, this might take a while, but:
Go to the parts list :
note down which part and how many:
click through to the mouser page: the manufacturer part number from the mouser page can help you search through farnell: e.g.
If you don't find an exact match :
Most of the components are SMD size 1206. select this size first.
Then, e.g. the resistor or capacator value : 10k
get the list, and searc
by
DaveR
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Controllers
I've used Farnell
who seem to supply much more than maplin, in fact, they supply so much it's hard to find what you want!
If you've got a parts list with numbers, they can probably help you - I even got the 'official' RRRF 100k thermistors from there, they seem to have/import a lot of parts from the US.
You will need to buy minimum quantities of some parts though - paticularly SMD components -
by
DaveR
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Controllers
Nice idea. one motor drives the rotation axis and also the z-axis at a massive rate of reduction.
So, when printing a minimug, you will have 1 platform rotation height difference between the start and finish of the outer wall.
To make this height difference minimal, you will have to gear the z-axis down by a lot - say 100 - which will give you a 1% difference in layer height between start and
by
DaveR
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Mechanics
:-)
I'm afraid you'll get a lot more support if you have a go, than posting ideas. Most of us have our own ideas we're busy with, testing out, and trying to get working - there's very little time left for real life, let alone anything else.
Posting any idea, you'll get positive and negative comments. Truth is, no-one really knows - we can have a guess, maybe point out some obvious problem area
by
DaveR
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General
The only thing that would need to change for metric/imperial is the constant for
Z_STEPS_PER_MM in the firmware. it's an easy change and metric will work fine.
by
DaveR
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Controllers
Plug the HD in with everything else.
Does it work?
If so, leave plugged in for now.
:-)
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DaveR
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Controllers
I was wondering whether the proximity of the nozzle raises the temp of the previous layers. If a heater bag of 70C is enough to help reduce warping, localised heating (through conduction or radiation) might be enough to raise the temp enough to reduce warping.
This might also explain why printing slower (more contact/radiation time) reduces warping, and would also explain the shape of the commer
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DaveR
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General
Doh! I never realised there was a BfB forum...! Signing up now!
Vaguely remember some of this from a long time ago...
You're suggesting that the filament freezes with internal stresses (like safety glass?)
Since the melting point of ABS is 105C, it's got over 100C to go from nozzle temp to freezing point.
I don't think that it will cool quick enough to fix the stresses. One of my extruders th
by
DaveR
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General
On this tutorial:
I noticed a comment about adding a high-temperature liquid to help heat transfer (i.e. adding a dribble of vegetable oil). I'd previously wondered if this would help, given that so much of cooking relies on heat transfer at various speeds and temperatures - see Heston Blumenthal's stuff or here :
Checking out the smoke temperatures for various oils
it seems that Canola/r
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DaveR
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General
It was me who suggested a frying pan. I haven't tried it. a solid sheet of copper should work as well. In fact, anything that will spread the heat out *should* work - a solid metal sheet (baking tray) might spread heat enough to work?
I also saw another comment about doing SMT soldering in a standard oven - although the temperature control is not that accurate, you can use a kitchen thermometer
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DaveR
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General
Java software is held in a subversion repository.
more details on wiki page
by
DaveR
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General