I have the same problem, the printer works pretty well, but it started clogging and I noticed the PTFE liner have creeped upwards (see picture). The collet held the ptfe liner nicely, and I used a razor blade to cut it flush off. Any ideas for a fix?by Nudel - General
On many (if not most afaik) larger non-budget lumber yards in norway they will precision cut for you, sometimes for free, sometimes for a negligible fee and sometimes if they are busy you might get to use the saw yourself.by Nudel - General
Sure, a few heatbeds could do it, just make sure to use a power supply that's powerful enough. With a heatbed that big you will encounter some problems though, it's difficult to keep the temperature even over such a large surface so you might need temp sensors on each heatbed if you use four. You could also build your own. Building something with mains power (110v/230v) is probably a good ideby Nudel - General
As of writing this, last commit/update to slic3r was 8 hours ago. It's not the stable version, but if you want the bleeding edge, stay updated via source on git:by Nudel - General
During printing, and after a printing move, you quickly retract (run the filament backwards) a certain amount to relieve the pressure in the nozzle. When you start a printing move again, you quickly move the filament back to the same length and position as before. I have no experience with bowden, but I understand it can take some fine tuning both in retraction speed and length in your slicing soby Nudel - General
Unless the set screws are loose, it could be the plastic is warped and damaged. Heat from the extruder motor drive shaft can heat up the pulley and make the nuts loosen up. Take it of and check. You might need to get a new pulley. You might be able to print even with severe slop, if you disable retract.by Nudel - General
Have you checked the tension on the extruder idler, and cleaned the teeth of the filament driver (hobbed bolt/gear, depending on your machine)? If the teeth are partly clogged (due to too high or too low idler tension) it can slip at the same place, producing a pattern that repeats like that.by Nudel - Printing
I've self sourced and built a Sells Mendel a Prusa Mendel and a Mendel90, and find tuning to be more about how well I've put the machine together than the designs decisions themselves. I had huge issues with my first printer, but I find it being due to lack of experience. I'm still tuning the mendel90 and it is not exactly a walk in the park, but I've met most of the problems before so I'm more cby Nudel - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you a Linux user because if you are a Windows > or Mac user you may want to rethink your > philosophy on software choices. I use both windows and linux, but my RepRap machines are running various ubuntu distros. I'm not very good with linux, but it's stable and a real breeze to use git on, which I love. > Bby Nudel - General
Wired1 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I will try the vinegar thanks - great idea and > smells a lot better than acetone. I'm one of those irritating "use vinegar for everything"-persons, so I don't mind the smell much any more, but if the bed is hot the vinegar vapour is on the strong side. From what I understand vinegar removes grease and then evaporateby Nudel - General
I've mostly used it for printing more printers, but also a lot of stuff I need around the house. It's an awesome tool to have available.by Nudel - General
I use and support Slic3r because it's open source, which imho fits better with the RepRap philosophy and goal. So far it has been fulfilling my requirements, but I do tend to stay with a release that's stable for me, as the bugs can be troublesome at times. I've previously used the java reprap host, repsnapper and various skeinforge versions.by Nudel - General
I routinely clean the glass plate with a bit of vinegar, and it makes PLA stick extremely well at 50C. Every now and then I take it off and clean off fingerprints thoroughly with dish soap in the sink and leave it to dry. I used to use acetone, but it had the opposite effect and made a thin layer of film which PLA wouldn't adhere to.by Nudel - General
Here: But why? It offers no structural benefit over a regular prusa frame, perhaps expect from looking slicker. For increased rigidity, I'd advice salvaging the parts and building a mendel90 instead.by Nudel - General
Probably loose pulley on the axis where it's missing steps. Could also be binding, loose belts, too high acceleration, overheating stepper drivers or motors.by Nudel - General
Toothed idlers are a bad idea in my opinion. Depending on how you mount it it might restrict how precise you can tighten the belt. And depending on how accurate you manage to print it, even a slightly oval idler will decrease overall quality. This is the same reason most people prefer machined pulleys over printed ones. (In time, as overall quality increase even more, this will probably change).by Nudel - General
It gets updated all the time. Just follow the instructions on about installing the dependencies, then pull the latest source from github and run it. It may need a little effort to make it run the first time, but then you can always run the latest version whenever you like.by Nudel - General
Just pulled and built slic3r v0.9.9dev from github. Used an unaltered old config from v0.9.3 and it produced some really beautiful prints. (A prusa y-motor-mount and a set of extruder herringbone gears). First layer now has the correct height, and there are zero bumps on the outside of the print. I would also recommend to upgrade.by Nudel - General
For my first RepRap, a modified Sells Mendel with open x carriage, gregstruder, lm8uu holders on the frog and 6mm glass: Entire Y-axis: ~1300g. X-carriage: ~700g. It ran fived firmware on gen3 techzone remix. From the calibration information I've saved, I used min print speed XY = 1400 and max print speed XY = 2000 with acceleration on. But in the last firmware I uploaded I see I turned accelerby Nudel - General
jamesdanielv Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > there also is the possiblity that the end stops > need to be plugged in for motors to move, but i > can't find out for sure. Depends on the firmware. Most newer firmwares - afaik, only tried Marlin recently - only checks for endstops when homing to gain speed. If software endstops are enabled, it would preventby Nudel - General
If you want to use vanilla Inkscape without the extra plugin, I've written a tutorial here.by Nudel - General
Homing z down automatically at the end of a print will end up a catastrophe with the x-gantry design like on a Mendel-type frame. Unless you print at the far end of the bed or have done some custom changes to the design, it is definitively not recommended. If you have some space to spare on either side of the bed, printing a bucket-attachment that clips under the x-ends is a better solution. Butby Nudel - General
rogerw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > what is the > definition of a bridge ie. what distance? A bridge is any point where the extrusion has no support, is extruding in mid-air, thus needing anchor points at both ends. jamesdanielv Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i think it considers a top first layer a bridge. I've nevby Nudel - General
Cool shirt akhlut. A real shame the font is wrong. :/by Nudel - General
I also have bad experience with white ultimachine PLA. My spool was bought more than two years ago though. Black, silver and transparent blue have been behaving perfectly fine though.by Nudel - General
Nice print! Increasing z speed and acceleration can also help. I got terrible blobbing like that on my first printer because I had to run the z very slow due to binding.by Nudel - General
I (and many others) use half a metre of ptfe tube to feed from the spool. In the attached picture you see two, one wrapped around the spool on the back, and another empty one from the bottom left and around to the top that I use to feed from the printed spool on the right. I've had zero tangles with the big spool on the back using this method. The front one can tangle itself on rare occasions, bby Nudel - General
I like the Mustache Ring. It's super fast to print, a fun gift, and people love it.by Nudel - General
Traumflug Wrote: > Ah, you're the ones wasting all my time there. I wouldn't call it wasting time, as it's growing the community. Having a place to go and get a quick answer is super helpful, and is the reason why many people - myself included - continue to stay around IRC to pay it forward and help others. Not saying people shouldn't research a bit first, and a huge amount of people alreadyby Nudel - General
richrap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @Nudel - Your comic's are Awesome! - always make > me smile and think, it would be great to have them > in a RepRap magazine, I would go straight to that > page first Thanks richrap! Glad you like my doodling. I have some neat storylines lined up with inspiration from IRC #reprap , just need to find some timeby Nudel - RepRap magazine