I'm planning to build a new delta printer using some of spares parts that got from previous builts. The plan is using 6 nema 17 on bottom and top, controlling each axis using indepent drive on klipper. I will go rigid on the frame using something very similar to this . I've 260mm diameter bed. I've some doubts calculation the right length of horizontal extrusion and rods. I would like to get thby masterviana - Delta Machines
I've been working in a boom to start my build, and a couple of question had been raising in a process of designing a delta. I've been used a couple of calculatores to helpme choose the bed and the print area overall like this for example : Everytime i input the values from dc42 horizontal beams 390mm it gave a values max of 280mm circular printing area. These is really importante to me sinceby masterviana - Delta Machines
Hi, I've recently rebuild my kossel (anycubic linear) the original design was 240mm bed diameter, 267mm rod lenght and the effector and carriages had 44mm distance. I'd mod an effector with width 51mm and use carriage of 51mm too, to accomodate all my needs, have use the same rods 267mm center to center. Now I think the nozze doesnt reach the full bed size. I think I lose some mm's of my bed.by masterviana - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Quotemasterviana The 3mm holes I think i can deal glue a paper printed whit the holes, the countersink its a bit more harder for me never done that job before. The "countersink" deep its only based on your expirence there is no way to mesure the deep. which countersink bit you've used? Even if dont countersink the holes the print area of the bed its only 300mm and the bed had 330mm, thaby masterviana - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Quotemasterviana From a while i've been looking to your build as an example for a well desgin delta, the only thing that keeps me from moving forward for a build is the fact of a alu bed. You have machine your 330mm 5mm alu bed. I wouldnt risk that job by myself, creating the holes and "countersunk" the holes. It's not difficult to drill and countersink three holes in aluminium. I didnby masterviana - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 The updated version of the second link that Robert posted is . Be warned, delta printers that print accurately need to be built precisely, so they are not cheap to build. However, a good CoreXY build probably costs more. From a while i've been looking to your build as an example for a well desgin delta, the only thing that keeps me from moving forward for a build is the fact of a aluby masterviana - Delta Machines
I've a leadscrew with 2mm pitch but i'm using an anti blackdash nut in plastic so I guess both have the same pitch.by masterviana - CoreXY Machines
I'd choose cantilevered design instead of dual Z motors, 3 Z motors or synchronize system because It's easy to mount and its my first build of an coreXY machine. Then I've learn with some mistakes in the design time, as you said many parts 3d printed, cheap bearing, not the longer version etc, so I'm try to fix some of that's mistakes and for now I'm pretty happy with the results of that my printby masterviana - CoreXY Machines
QuoteSeraph1M Hello masterviana, I am also working on the design of a new printer. I've decided to go with the Hypercube evolution, but adapted to make use of a load of parts I have salvaged from a Kossel. I am also a CAD engineer. However with the release to the market of the Ender 5 + the whole project has become a bit moot. And I have absolutely nowhere to put a printer bigger than my Ender 3by masterviana - CoreXY Machines
Quotehercek AFAIK, only RepRap firmware on a 32-bit Duet board implements the 2nd method in firmware. You need to do it semi-manually with other firmwares using e.g. this. The 1st method is implemented in Marlin. I do not know it's state now. I used Marlin the last time about 4 years ago. Mesh based compensation was barely introduced at that time. Unfortunately my board its only compatibility wby masterviana - Delta Machines
Quotehercek There are two different kinds of calibrations: simple mesh based levelling: this does not try to fix endstops, tower positions, tower tilt, or diagonal rod length; instead it just measures z-error in a regular mesh and adds a linearly interpolated correction to the z-position based on the measurement so that one layer is planar; this method does not do anything to fix YX error calibraby masterviana - Delta Machines
Quotehercek Mesh bed levelling will work always provided:your printer is repeatable (does not have any unwanted play)the z-probe works wellyour version of the firmware is not buggy The disadvantage of mesh bed levelling is that it does not fix dimensional accuracy. It only makes your first layer stick. What do you mean by that? The process of calibrate a delta its also ajusting the endstop, tilby masterviana - Delta Machines
QuoteOhmarinus When did you download this Marlin version? About two months ago there was a bugfix version in which the Delta settings were broken. If you downloaded it about 1,5 to 2 months ago I would first try to update Marlin to the latest bugfix. I have since upgrading to the newest Marlin just simply ditched relying purely on G33 leveling and use UBL (unified bed leveling) with one time manby masterviana - Delta Machines
For more then one year i've running my delta machine an anycubic linear plus with a version of marlin 1.1.9 running in a 8bits board without any problems at all, either auto calibration or leveling the bed run flawlessly and i'm able to get a first perfect layer with everything align. These delta machine had a probe that is a switch can bed mounted in place with a magnet when needs to run auto cby masterviana - Delta Machines
I've already build a version of a hypercube original from tech2c with a 220x220 bed and it's perform great. Now i'm looking for a designer to build a coreXY with 200x300 or a 270x240 (ultrabase bed). And I know that is not a great design to use two dual Z motor to lift the bed, in order avoids the need to re-synchronise the leadscrews after a power cycle or some other syncronise problems. I knowby masterviana - CoreXY Machines
Need some help to identify these problem, in theses model its always getting these strange lines in the middle of the hole, the surface its a circle with a hole on the middle. I've re-printed the model it always getting these line pattern at same place. I thought might be a retraction problem I've start with 2mm now I use 1.7mm and I'm starting to get a lot of stringing. I'm have a bmg extruder mby masterviana - Printing
Quoteo_lampe You treat any driver that comes without SPI, like a standard Pololu driver: You set the Vref via potmeter and calculate steps/mm according to the jumper settings inside the driver socket. Then change this line in Marlins configuration.h: // X Y Z E steps/mm #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {200, 200, 200, 140.6} // steps per mm for Kossel (GT2, 16 tooth @1/32 and e-steps @1/1by masterviana - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Many thanks for your reply, I'll share all the information Here is the behaviour in video: Where my config file : where the link for my termistor : Heat cartridge its 50w instead of my previous 40w : I',m uusing trigorrila board. I'll report the voltages once I'm getting home.by masterviana - Controllers
I'll try describe my issue if I set the tempurature with pronterface to 200º the temperature never reaches that value for instance it almost target that tempeurate 196/197ª and then start to drop to 184/85º end then start to raise again to the 196/97º. And remains in this loop forever, I'm not able to start any print because tempurate never stabilize. I've try to configure the PID (M303 E0 S200by masterviana - Controllers
I’m using tmc 2130 with SPI interface in my kossel build the motors have 2.0A peak. I’m using 12v in my power supply. That driver are winey at 12v its goes very hot. I read that is good for a low-current motors. With that said I'm looking for a good driver, (good resolution, silent). I've found SD6128 that uses the chip THB6128. However I'm not seeing the configuration for that drive/chip in maby masterviana - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I'm installing BL touch sensor for the first time, its a clone from aliexpress, everthing are working well except the fact that z-min probe never change state either open or trigger. I'm able to put pin down and up using M280 P0 S10 and M280 P0 S90. But in every states of pin up/down the status remains the same. I've already use multimeter to check continuity for this 2 wires and never got conby masterviana - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I'm planing use to build a printer with a size 300x300 with mk2 alu heated. For that I'm planning to use a solid state replay to quicker heat the bed. My question is it possible to use solid state relay with alu mk2 bed? Should I wired for 12v or 24v? I only know many guys who have connect solid state relay using silicon heater. This is the way of wire this circuit? I'm also see this dcby masterviana - General
QuoteDust Look again at the link In the middle is a HUGE table Please get glasses or learn to read. But since you wont... there are three options for 1/16th microstepping CFG1 CFG2 MicroStepping Interpolation Mode VCC VCC 16 µ-steps none spreadCycle GND open 16 µ-steps 256 µ-steps spreadCycle open open 16 µ-steps 256 µ-steps stealthChop CFG3 is also left off... So all jumpers oby masterviana - RAMPS Electronics
I've the same problem I'm using fysec tmc 2100 v1.3 I've cut cfg 2 and cfg3 from driver and bridge cg1 to gnd and also remove all pin below the driver in ramps 1.4 I've set my vref to 1.0 volts and still I've missing steps, how I know if is in spredcycle mode?by masterviana - Firmware - Marlin
Yes I could solder it, but I didn't know what I need to solder could you point me the image?by masterviana - RAMPS Electronics
Tks for the reply, how did it happen? Its possible to fix or should I buy new mega?by masterviana - RAMPS Electronics
I everone, I am used to use my ramps board with rasp pi for months, today I've unmount my printer and I notice that the board not wake until I connect the Pi to the usb port. What could cause this?by masterviana - RAMPS Electronics
Many thanks for the help, I've decided for now following the hypercube of tech2c using 2020 slot with some mods to increase Z length and build plate to 250x250. For now I'll use the heated bed of my prusa 200x200 but it will be possible to increase to 250x250. This project have a lot of remixs solutions using larger rods, using closed belt circuit in Z instead of connect the motor to the leadscrby masterviana - Reprappers
Well i'll prefer mantain the same print volume, but if is for losing something I'll prefer lose some vertical volume, could you explain the teoriry that relat the rods lenght and the build volume? especial horizontal volumeby masterviana - Delta Machines
Hi folks, I've a real quick question that are made me crazy and I would like to understand because I'm intent do update my kossel printer (anycubic kit) and also want to build my own kossel with a larger print area but that isnt for now. Basically my anycubic plus have a heatbed of 230x230 and the rods lenght are 267mm long, my question is how the rods lenght influence the print area (circumferby masterviana - Delta Machines