Few things, Could be filament related, if you use filament that has an inconsistent diameter then you will get wider layers where the filament is fatter. To check this unroll a meter or two of filament and check the diameter every say 100mm. then take the average of those readings and put it in your slicer as the filament diameter. Could be temperature related, If your hotend is not tuned corby scottybfg - Printing
the #endif without #if tells me you have accidentally deleted an #if in the Conditionals_LCD.h. You dont need to change anything in this file so dont know why you are getting an error. Just delete the Conditions_LCD.h and put a new one in the folder. As for the fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory. It is telling you exactly what to do. You need the U8glib.h library, its even nice enby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Just be careful with lead screw calculation, the pitch is different to the lead. Yes the pitch of the thread is 2mm but if you have 4 starts (number of threads there are spiralling around the shaft of the screw) then your lead would be 8mm (lead = pitch * starts). The lead should be used in the calculation and not the pitch. You can see the number of starts you have by looking at the end, most coby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Instructions are on the wiki page Please at least try to solve your problems first before posting or say what you have tried. I will also say dont delete your old firmware, you can always look back through and see what changes have been made, or what settings are differentby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
What version of Marlin are you using? this is a very old error that affects older versions of the marlin firmware when using a newer version of Arduino. You have a few options here, 1) download the latest marlin from the official git 2) Renaming fpos_t variables in SdBaseFile.h and SdBaseFile.cpp to another name like filepos_t . This should fix your current firmware as fpos_t is used in curreby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
That is z wobble and is cursed by misalignment, bent z screws (or using cheap screws / threaded rod) or flexing of a cheap frame. If I remember right you have the CTC i3 clone, so just google "CTC z wobble" and you should find all the information you needby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Looking at the pictures you posted I could not see the skirt, why i suggested it, so we can rule out priming. When you say you did the math for the steps I'm guessing you mean XYZ and thats fine, but the E steps still need a bit of fine tuning to make sure if you say to extrunder 50mm of filament it feeds 50mm of filament into the extruder.by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
@Jinx, all good, you gave the information for cura, i gave the information for slic3r, given the user will be using one of the two with repetier host. I have not done much work with cura so can't comment on what works betterby scottybfg - General
Vase mode is in slic3r, its for a single wall object and slowly moves the z carriage up as it prints the layer so there are no seams. To print a hollow object you don't need to use vase mode, All you need to do is set your infill to 0% and have no top solid layers, If you want to use it with Vase mode as well set the perimeters to 1 and slice. Cant get more simple than thatby scottybfg - General
If the extrusion multiplayer is set to 1.4 then your steps/mm might be wrong. The multiplayer should be set to 1.0 =- 0.1 Are you printing with a skirt to prime the nozzle or do you have a nozzle prime in the g code? Sometimes it takes time to get the plastic flowing, adding a skirt will give the plastic time to start flowing. This will also explain the bubbles as there will still be air in theby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
So I ordered a duet 0.85 for my delta from think3D a few months back. Long story short work was busy and I'm only now getting around to setting it up. This is my first experience with a 32bit board. So following the documentation and getting the reprap firmware 1.18.1 I was all ready to set it up, however once flashed and board restarted, my computer continues to make the USB disconnect sound.by scottybfg - Duet
The thing about part cooling fans is you want to cool the part and not the nozzle. The fan you linked will blow air over the nozzle and will give you more print issues, if you cool the nozzle the plastic can set in the nozzle and clog. Its a fine balance between keeping the nozzle hot and part cool. The fan I posted is a good design It also has comments from people who have tried and tested itby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I wouldn't worry about changing the firmware, in saying that its going to be a version of marlin anyway. Just start from the slicer section of the calibration guide to help with your settings. And fan / mount will work as long as you have a way to connect it to the printer and you can adjust the height. I'm not to sure if the one you posted will mount easily, the wanhoa has a different x carriagby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
STL is not really a format that can be edited nicely in my opinion. Making an STL mesh of an object that is already an STL is going to give more chance of errors that can result in bad prints. For me I find it quicker to model the part myself and make the changes as needed. Importing the STL is a good way to get the dimension.by scottybfg - General
The hotend you listed is one of the cheap ones, try and stay away from them. Ill give you a few hints on how to spot them; - Most ebay listings are going to be clones, try and buy from from the manufacture or from a trusted on seller in your country - E3d and J-head and styles / brands. they are not the same so if you see them both appear in the title, its going to be a clone - A full metal hoteby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
No real difference between a $150 and $400 printer, They still take time to configure and need some modifications to get reliably good prints. You already have a basic printer so look at a few upgrades to get the quality you want. Have a quick read through of the calibration guide this will help you find optimal settings for your printer. Looking at your old posts with printing the bear, it lby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
You answered your own question in your post. QuoteDKLeader pictures / drawings on various support sides are not to be trusted especially with the cables. Also that suppliers of cables do not use the same color sequence. Yet you still used pictures to hook up the motors. No harm done, with steppers you want to make sure the coils are paired or it wont work. How do you know the coil pairs if youby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
If still confused by your Z axis issue. From what I can understand you are trying to say that when you home the Z, Nothing touches the limit switch so it keeps moving? If thats it then just move the optical sensor. When I asked for i pic I meant of the Z axis limit switch and issue so I could try and understand betterby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Why did you start a new post for this???? Its related to your old post What cura settings did you change? this video is for an older version but all the information is the sameby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Dont bother mate, they asked the same question in 10 other threads and was given the answer in at least 3 of themby scottybfg - Developers
For a bed size of only 30mm x 30mm I would look at an SLS / SLA setup. You will get much better detail than any FDM machine currently on the market. You can pick up a basic SLA machine off aliexpress for about half your budgetby scottybfg - CoreXY Machines
If parts of the print are sticking very well and others are not, then your issue might be in the flatness of your bed and not the material. What type of bed are you using and how do you level / adjust it?by scottybfg - Printing
With the Tronxy I'm guessing you have the Melzi V2.0 board. Not the best board in the world but will get the job done. Without you listing what you have tried to get it to connect to windows, I'm just going to link you the Greetech wiki page about the board, there you will find driver instructions and download links. Once you get the board connected, send it M119 to see what is happening withby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Ive been playing around with the idea of getting a thin sheet of metal the same size of my bed. The idea is to clap this down run the auto tramming then remove the sheet. If the thickness of the metal is right then you would be set at a perfect first layer height.by scottybfg - General
I too find it too good to be true, looking up Sakata3d i found their online store that still has the ABS 3mm filament listed for 22€/kg. One would think they would drop the price on their website first or offer a promo code before posting on the forum, very suspiciousby scottybfg - For Sale
QuoteRoberts_Clif I would rotate the Pi Board Box Lid 180 leaving the Face level on the Bed and disable the support material. Good pick, to me it looked like it was one flat plate, but it it does have sides rotate, you will never get that top detail if it needs support / bridging.by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I would expect it to be a little different but not by much. Do you get a good flow out of your hotend? the fillament might be clogging or jamming giving you a lower than expected numberby scottybfg - General
The 0.06mm next to the high quality in the profile, is that referring to layer height? (Probably why its a 21h print, should only be 2 at max). If so that is way to high for a box lit with no detail in the z so those extra layers are wasted, go with something like 0.2mm or 0.25mm The gaps between the hex holes already look close, i would get rid of the solid infill (maybe a 40%) and have perimetby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm going to say it might be firmware related, maybe you selected the wrong resistance for #1. A simple test would be to swap the two resisters on the control board, if the problem stays with extruder 1 then its firmware (or maybe a short on the control board), if the problem moves to extruder 2 then it might be with the thermister its self, but given you have already tried plugging in another tby scottybfg - General Mendel Topics
Calibration guide Print quality troubleshooting Yes the link is to simplify3d but you dont need the softwear to use the guide, gives really good advice with pictures to help identify what problems you have. Sure you can have people tell you what to change but you wont learn anything, having a play around and understanding what changes affect what parameters will help you later on diagnose andby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants