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Discuss any sort of mechanical stuff here: positioning systems, gears, extruding methods, etc.
Re: Belts - Whats the best you can buy? - 7 years ago
Ive run the steel PU2.5mm belts in my printers for year. The main thing to remember with the steel reinforced belts is they don't like small radius's and benefit from toothed idlers, other than that i find them a great belt once tensioned. I also had a Delta that I ran with fibre reinforced belts as it was only a mini and could not justify having the bigger ends just to get a bigger pulley forby scottybfg - General
Re: Hictop I3 starts prints too high - 7 years ago
Repetier is not a slicer, just a host software (communicates to your printer), you need to create a new g-code file for the part in slic3r (which comes with repetier) As for the start g-code i see it does rise up 15mm, G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm Does it ever drop back down to start the print?by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: echo:endstops hit: ERROR - 7 years ago
when you entered m119 where any of the endstops pressed? as in did you have the printer in its home positionby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: echo:endstops hit: ERROR - 7 years ago
The end stop position is important and it needs to match where the firmware thinks the end stops are. It sounds like you have the endstops in the right location, so when it homes the nozzle should be sitting at the front left. You should change the direction in the firmware as Dust suggested, open up your firmware in Arduino and in the config.h and search for #define Y_HOME_DIR and change it (by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: echo:endstops hit: ERROR - 7 years ago
When you power on and connect the printer, it has no clue where it is in the X,Y,Z world, it needs to be homed first so it knows where it is, that's why you are finding it is only moving in one direction (should be the direction towards the endstops). Home the printer in pronterface (click the little house on the list side or enter G28) and once the printer homes, you should be able to move in aby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: ALUNAR 3D Printers - 7 years ago
It all really depends on how good you are at tinkering and reading / research when it comes to these low end printers. Some people love them, some hate them but I think it really comes down to the user in the end. When buying a low end printer with the intention of upgrading in the future, one of the main things to look at is a good solid, square frame. Everything else can be replaced, but if thby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Hictop I3 starts prints too high - 7 years ago
Adding it in to the g-code would only be a bandade solution, something is telling your printer to lift up before printing its better to find out why then just cover it up. Try a different slicer and see if it does the same, this will tell you if its in the cura settings or could be something in the firmware. May I recommend trying Slicer, its easy to setup with the wizard and its always good toby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Does parallelity of arms matter? - 7 years ago
Or CAD up and print a new effector with the right spacing or a bit less that you could pad out with washers, much easier than printing or buying shimsby scottybfg - Delta Machines
Re: Hictop I3 starts prints too high - 7 years ago
Changing the steps per mm is not going to solve this problem, they should be set to the calculated values. This issue is most likely caused by your slices. have a look at your start g-code for anything that will cause it to rise this amount before printing, or post it here and ill have a look. Also depending on the slicer you can set a z offset amount to help get a better first layer, i would onby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Layer issues in line with holes on the Z axis - 7 years ago
have a look at your retraction settings, you might be retracting too much and not putting enough filament through on restart, thats why it looks like under extrusion only after the holes where a retraction would have happenedby scottybfg - General
Re: Anycubic Kossel Delta re-configure - 7 years ago
There are lots of youtube videos out there showing how to setup marlin for a deter printer, and even more on how to flash it to the control board. It dose look overwhelming but if you can edit numbers in text, then you can update firmware Have a google and give it a try, better than having a deter printer just sitting there. If you dont feel comfortable updating firmware yet, leave the Sunhockeby scottybfg - Delta Machines
Re: Anycubic Kossel Delta re-configure - 7 years ago
There is no problem swamping the control board, all the low end knock off boards run the same ATmega1280 chip like you would find in an arduino mega. your last line is confusing me but Quotetwwd install it in the Delta and use it as it is now set up D No you will need to flash a firmware that is configured for a delta. You can't run a delta off firmware that is setup for am i3, its a differenby scottybfg - Delta Machines
Re: How to get an exact representation of the build plate dimensions? - 7 years ago
I would say the miss alignment issue comes from the two different bed settings. Can you slide your X end-stop over 9mm so that X0 is the start of the printable area? (I would say you could try a software offset but I haven't used a Duet board yet, have one in the mail but ) Also what printer do you have? You have lost over 20% of your y build area just due to constraints? I would think about adby scottybfg - General
Re: Recommendations for a first build? - 7 years ago
Being mechanical engineers and having experience in robotics and planning projects, I would say have a look around and design a printer that will suet your needs. Having a strong square base frame should be one of your main objectives, the rest should just fall in place. I think the real question here should be what to design and build, a cartesian, delta or corexyby scottybfg - Reprappers
Re: Geeetech printing issues - 7 years ago
Adjusting the voltage of a stepper motor is done on the control board. have a read through this guide and it will help you (linl: ) you can set it to the calculated voltage if you like, but sometimes you need a bit more, if you find that the stepper motor is hot to the touch after running, try dripping the current as this is a sign of too much current. When adjusting the current, make sure the pby scottybfg - Printing
Re: Geeetech printing issues - 7 years ago
Hi there, Welcome to the forum. So as you have just found out Geeetech put random junk together and call it an extruder. You just need to google "geeetech extruder problems" to find out you are not alone in having this problem. A good place to start is here link: Geeetech also has a forum with lots of tips and tricks by other users on how to fix this and meany other issues with the printerby scottybfg - Printing
Re: The step motor starts the movement but does not complete - 7 years ago
If the motors work fine on the Z axis then it might be the feedrate. Halve the feedrate for the x and y in the firmware then give it a goby scottybfg - Printing
Re: Extrude without a Hotend - 7 years ago
odd that it just displays sending, Do you know what version firmware you are running? Yes this would be a one time solution, you could include it at the start of your g-code. Once cold extrusion is enabled the printer will not wait for the hotend to reach temp so yes the E0 will work like normal. If you dont like that idea then you can modify your firmware, all you should need to change is miby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Kossel delta suddenly over temp PLA conditions occur - 7 years ago
Its best to tighten the headlock and nozzle at high temps, of if you still find that its loose (enough for your issue to happen) try a high temp lock-tight or plumbers tape (most are PTFE)by scottybfg - Reprappers
Re: Updating Motherboard Problems - 7 years ago
Google is your friend here, just search "Geeetech 2560 Board communication timeout" Looks like this is an issue with no real solution, some users find its the USB cable, other the USB port on the computer not supplying enough power, version of arduino, and what looks to be the most common, missing or corrupted bootloader. If you have updated the firmware before, then start by looking at other sby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Extrude without a Hotend - 7 years ago
You can use a simple g-code command to allow cold extrusion. (dont let the name fall you, g-code is not coding just machining commands) M302 P1 ; Allow cold extrusion Just enter the above code from your host software (pronterface or repitear) and you should be good to test the paste extruder. Here is a handy list of g-code commandsby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: PLA Lifting in Back - 7 years ago
You should look at moving to a 3 point levelling system. 3 points define a plane and its easier to get a level bed. 4 points over constrains the bed and leads to warping / bowing. If you do a search of the "digital_dentist and 3 point levelling" you should get some good info, he is a user on this forum and gives good advice and improvements.by scottybfg - Printing
Re: My printer just started printing circles as ovals and squares as rectangles... - 7 years ago
I don't see any point in stripping the axis just yet. Having a smaller dimension is usually a sign of skipped steps. A slipping pulley can be hard to spot, draw a thin line from the centre of the motor shaft and up onto the pulley, run the print and see if the line still matches up. Also look at belt tension and try increasing the stepper current to that motor.by scottybfg - Printing
Re: My printer just started printing circles as ovals and squares as rectangles... - 7 years ago
Try using a different slicer. If they still come out as rectangles then you know that simplify3D is not the issue and can focus on hardware / firmware Have you made any changes no matter how small you may think between the correct dimensions and nowby scottybfg - Printing
Re: echo to long extrusion prevented - 7 years ago
yep, so you want to swap the numbers like i showed, then plug the extruder into the 5th or spare motor spot on the (ramps)by scottybfg - Mechanics
Re: echo to long extrusion prevented - 7 years ago
so #define E0_STEP_PIN 36 // was 26 #define E0_DIR_PIN 34 // was 28 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30 // was 24 #define E0_CS_PIN 44 // was 42 #define E1_STEP_PIN 26 // was 36 #define E1_DIR_PIN 28 // was 34 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 24 // was 30 #define E1_CS_PIN 42 // was 44by scottybfg - Mechanics
Re: echo to long extrusion prevented - 7 years ago
My bad, I forgot Marlin moved away from a pins.h that included every board to individual pin files. You will need to make the modification in the pins_RAMPS.hby scottybfg - Mechanics
Re: echo to long extrusion prevented - 7 years ago
ok??? can you upload your firmware file, or supply a link to where you downloaded it fromby scottybfg - Mechanics
Re: Object Dimensions are skewed after changing nozzle and controller - 7 years ago
The steps/mm should be set to the mathematically determined value using, pulley teeth, belt pitch, motor step size and micro stepping (http://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/). Anyone who tells you you can "calibrate" your printer by adjusting your steps has out dated info as this was a quick fix we did in the early days of the reprap project. A square frame is the only thing that will fix skeby scottybfg - Printing
Re: echo to long extrusion prevented - 7 years ago
What you need to do is swap the pin numbers for the 2 extrudes in the pins.h for your motherboard (yours is BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB ). there will be three numbers you need to swap, (think its E1 and E2 but could be something different, they come after X Y Z so should be easy to find) #define E1_STEP_PIN #define E1_DIR_PIN #define E1_ENABLE_PIN #define E2_STEP_PIN #define E2_DIR_PIN #define E2_Eby scottybfg - Mechanics