How do I save all settings in Slic3r and restore them? From the Slic3r manual (http://manual.slic3r.org/configuration-organization/configuration-organization): Quote The Export Config Bundle... allows to export the entire set of profiles to a single file (not just the selected profiles). This is handy if you want to clone a Slic3r setup from one computer to another, or make a backup. Attemptinby fractal5 - Slic3r
While printing a small project recently, the printer just suddenly froze. No errors or information was displayed, and the temperature readings stopped being updated. I had to reconnect the USB cable to be able to interact with it again, and then it worked fine again. What is this an indication of? Any ideas?by fractal5 - General Mendel Topics
I have an apparently working auto bed leveling setup on my old i2. I'm however wondering if it works at all. I've only printed very small objects, and now than I'm printing slightly larger ones, I'm finding that the Z offset is spot on in the area I usually print, but lower down, it is too high. This results in warping. Should not this exact problem be something my auto bed leveling can compensatby fractal5 - General Mendel Topics
Quotetadawson When a circuit is powered, ohmmeter readings are not valid . . . not certain exactly how you are making the determination of pin 41being grounded when the Arduinomis powered. There should be a pullup resistor on that pin high until the kill switch pulls it down by connecting to ground . . . and I think that pullup *should* be on the Arduino . . . For now, you should be able to redefby fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
The pins are only shorted when the Arduino has power. Does this tell anyone anything? Is it a configuration error or a hardware fault?by fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
And sure enough. My pin 41 is shorted to ground. How the heck did that happen by just sitting there unused for some months?by fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
From reading the source code and adding debug serial prints I found that it killed itself due to the kill switch being pressed, even when I have removed the LCD and its adapter plate. Perhaps I have a short on my RAMPS.by fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
Quotemadmike8 Do you have a heatbed? is the Thermistor configured in Marlin? Is it connected to the right pins? Also for your hotend thermistor. Do you have any other Thermistors configured in Marlin? I have a heated bed. I have two thermistors in total and both are configured and correctly connected. Both are also working correctly. I can see that when I connect, briefly before I get forcibly dby fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
No, this is not the issue. I just tried physically removing both cables from the LCD controller to the RAMPS. It still gets killed about a second or two after I connect to it with Pronterface.by fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
I have not used my printer for some time. Then I suddenly notice the LCD is reading "KILLED". I assumed this was just some software bug that eventually had surfaced due to having been just sitting idle and powered on for a couple months (USB power by computer, no power to PSU, motors, bed or extruder of course). I reconnect the USB cable to the Arduino, I can connect with Pronterface, the PSU stby fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
Could anyone recommend a simple CAD tool that is easy to use together with Slic3r and that has good Linux support? Ideally I would like something that is as easy to use as Sketchup, but running Sketchup in WINE is not an option for me. Also, I'm unable to get FreeCAD to install properly, so it has to be something else than FreeCAD.by fractal5 - 3D Design tools
I have a working #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER connected to my Arduino. It stays on whenever the Arduino has power, including the backlight. How can I disable the LCD entirely, or just the backlight, using gcodes or some other software feature? Even better: Is there some way to make it timeout and shut itself off when the printer has been idle for a certain period of timeby fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
What would be a good approach to add some LED strips for lighting purposes (mounted onto the X carriage) using the RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin? I need something I can turn on and off with gcodes.by fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteRepRot Hi, May pay to check this in Configuration_adv.h Line 90 - have the following inactive e.g.. //#define ENDSTOP_ONLY_FOR_HOMING Line 312 - you may wish to have this active if printing from SD cards e.g. #define ABORT_ON_ENDSTOP_HIT_FEATURE_ENABLE (Need to enable from LCD to stop printing if wanted for every time you go to print something). I found the first one yesterday but foby fractal5 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
In Marlin 1.0.2 I have: #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 0 Actual position when it performs this probe: SENDING:M114 X:23.01 Y:128.04 Z:20.88 E:0.00 Count X: 22.99 Y:128.00 Z:21.17 Then if I do (which is probably dangerous): #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -20 X:3.01 Y:128.04 Z:20.88 E:0.00 Count X: 2.99 Y:128.00 Z:21.17 Note that when X is 0, it is touching the X minimum endstop. Why doesby fractal5 - General Mendel Topics
I added an extra endstop on the X axis, as I had a spare one. I want this as simply an extra insurance against crashing into the maximum position. However what I found is that the maximum endstop is ignored completely. The extruder sled crashed right into it without stopping. This is surprising to me, as M119 shows me that that x_max is TRIGGERED when it is activated, and open otherwise. I didby fractal5 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
How can I turn off the servo when the printer is idle or printing? The servo keeps making a humming sound (there is no binding), I want the power to be cut to the servo when it is not in use. I only use the servo for auto bed leveling and it stays up on its own after it has been retracted. Is there some way to configure the firmware to do this? I'm using Marlin 1.0.2. Edit: #define PROBE_SEby fractal5 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteDust Most likly your endstops are wired incorrectly, maybe you have them plugged in backwards? They are just swicthes and should connect S to - it sounds lke you are connecting + to - wich will stop everything. and most times kill the voltage regulator on the mega You were right, I don't know how, but somehow I made a huge mistake and connected them to + and -, which obviously is very bby fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
I've done a more thorough test of my soldering, I've measured everything for any shorts, and there are none. I've also tested the board with a minimal setup, only the endstops and temperature sensors (which are working and reading good values) connected to the RAMPS and only USB connected to the Arduino. The same error occurs. Every time any endstop is activated, the device disconnects and I getby fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
I disconnected all wiring to my RAMPS board, removed the RAMPS board and soldered on new pin headers for the servos, AUX-1, AUX-2 and AUX-4. I did some basic sanity checking (checking for shorts and that the conductivity made sense with a multimeter) and put everything back together. Now I have the following problem: Reporting endstop status x_min: open y_min: open z_min: open Can't read from pby fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
Quotecdru I have my Mendel90 setup so that it still first uses z-max initially to set the approximate baseline, moves down most of the way, swings the servo down, and then does it's probing with z-min. Interesting, but how do you configure in the firmware what pins on the RAMPS board to use for the microswitch that is on the servo arm?by fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
For auto bed leveling, does the microswitch attached to the servo arm replace the normal Z-axis endstop? I can't find any configuration in the Marlin firmware in the auto bed leveling section regarding what pins the switch should be connected to, so I'm assuming it will simply use the normal Z-axis endstop microswitch. Is this correct?by fractal5 - RAMPS Electronics
My RAMPS 1.4 came preassembled with several pin headers missing. My board is missing the servo, AUX-1, AUX-2, SPI and AUX-4 pin headers. I guess this is normal. However, now I want to add an LCD and a servo, so I need to populate the headers. Obviously I could just solder the wires directly onto the board, but as I want to avoid that for practical reasons I would like to ask from where do I getby fractal5 - Controllers
For the Prusa i2, what parts would be recommended to print to add auto bed leveling for it? There appear to be so many solutions for this that I'm not sure where to start and if someone could point me to a guide that would be great. Edit: Also, what type of switch should and servo should I get for this? Again a guide would be great.by fractal5 - General Mendel Topics
I have a MakerGear Prusa i1 (I know I said i2 in my previous thread, but this was pointed out to me is incorrect, it is a MG modified i1, apparently): Setup 1 Setup 2 The X ends are i1 parts, and they have a design flaw that allows the belt to pull the smooth rods such that they get bent when the X belt is tightened hard enough. As it happens it is too slack when the rods are not bent, and theby fractal5 - Reprappers
New results: With the help of two friends I have gotten a new bed made of an aluminium plate, it is a 5052-H32 plate, 1/4" x 10" x 10". It has been drilled and mounted directly on top of the heated bed with a conductive compound between the two plates to provide good heat conduction. The plate itself is covered in Kapton tape and has a hole drilled into the side of it (depicted in one of the picby fractal5 - Reprappers
appdev007 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey, those look better squished together than the > previous prints. I do notice that the layer offset > occurs every 3rd layer. I finally dealt with the > last of my wobble issues by printing a > set of > these (they hold the z smooth rods tight) > and buying a set of > these. I think this took theby fractal5 - Reprappers
I have now made some changes: I printed a new endstop by clicking the endstop manually. I removed the longest threaded rod on the X axis at the bottom of the machine. Inserted it again and redid all the squaring of the machine. I used a caliper and a weight on a string to do this squaring. I got some suggestions on IRC to print with 0.37 mm extrusion width and 0.2 mm layer height and 174 degreby fractal5 - Reprappers
Sadly I still (after squaring the machine better) have the exact same problems.by fractal5 - Reprappers
Bruce Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That sucks... crazy glue? It was a complicated fracture. I printed a new one by just manually clicking the endstop, to my surprise that actually worked on the first attempt. I'm printing a new 20 mm box now, to see if there are any improvements.by fractal5 - Reprappers