Thanks guys, all your comments have been taken on board, check driver voltage, 1.56v reduce Configuration.h max speed 2 done all these things but still have problem. My logic says that as the G 28 command and the commands from pronterface move the axis fine i.e. homing feed rate is set at (3*60) and working well and smoothly so pulses are being generated fast enough, so have I missed some settby papakel - Reprappers
Hi all now that I have got my prusa i3 home made clone to work, that is to say print the 20mm test cube I find that the X and Y sizes are spot on 20mm but the Z axis is only 15 mm undersized by 25% and so I thought the answer was simple increase the working step count that is re calculate M5 screws at 0.8 pitch so 1.8 deg stepper motor =200 steps per 360 degrees with 16 micro stepping =3200 multiby papakel - Reprappers
Hi guys, I am glad to report that my resetting problem has now been overcome, the thing that appears to have been the problem all along was the SD card, that is to say that I set the sd spi speed to the lowest setting in configuration.h file, all that my feeble mind can think is that the arduino must use the SD card as memory dump for the processing and if the full speed was too high then that maby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks guys for your replies, however if I had some sort of short on the steppers would that not happen during the g28 and g29 routines and also when manually extruding filament ??. And also I recently ran PID autotune for 240 degrees and entered the Ki Kd and Kp numbers and saved them to eprom. I noticed in my configuration.h file that my PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE is set to 10 would that be right?by papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Hi Dust, thank you for your patience as I said the printer rapidly moves to the start of the print displays on the smart controller "heating done" and then either line 1 "Err: MAXTEMP " Line 3 "PRINTER HALTED" Line 4 "Please reset" Or line 1 "KILLED" line 3 "PRINTER HALTED" line 4 "Please reset" Or the screen goes straight from the bottom line displaying "Heating" to a complete arduino reset sby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, here I am again getting more and more frustrated. Now having updated to a 20 amp power supply, removing D1 and connecting an L2596 2amp 5volt supply to the unused limit pins so I am sure that I do not have any power problems on either 12 volt or 5 volt rails but still have re-setting and kill errors messages after the G28 and G29 commands have completed and heating is up to temperatureby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
thanks for your reply, but due to earlier suggestions I have swapped out my ATX supply for a 12 volt 20 amp supply with no 5 volt tappingsby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks guys for your replies, if I aquire a 5 volt supply how should I power the smart controller away from the interface board? I can power the probe that is straight forward but the smart controller is a puzzelby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
hi all, I have now replaced the Mega 2560 (clone) and now the printer operates as a stand alone as well as when connected to a computer with Pronterface, great, ah but my problem still persists I am now convinced that the 5 volt rail is overloaded, the smart controller screen, levelling probe and third stepper driver would seem to be starving the megga's processor resulting in it re booting andby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Hi folks, I have just had a thought my mega 2560 appears to be taking its 5 volts from the USB and not from the ramps board or power supply could this be why it keeps resetting its self due to insufficient amperage if so how do I give it more powerby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks dart16 for the reply, I will try all of your logistical steps as soon as I have the time. The electronic noise idea is one that I had not thought about but does sound logical and so I intend to address this one, for instance the probe, heater fan and thermister wires all run side by side though I suppose that this is normal so I am going to make twisted pairs of all that I can and I was woby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks dart16 for the reply, I will try all of your logistical steps as soon as I have the time. The electronic noise idea is one that I had not thought about but does sound logical and so I intend to address this one, for instance the probe, heater fan and thermister wires all run side by side though I suppose that this is normal so I am going to make twisted pairs of all that I can and I was woby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Hi Dust, Thanks for your suggestion, I have been on holiday so have not replied earlier I took head of what you say regards power and since my return I connected my 13 amp supply to the 11 amp connection and a second 7amp ATX supply to the 5 amp side but that did not alter the issue, trying to print a 20mm test cube the G28 and G29 codes worked fine the nozzle heated to 240 deg and then the noby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks Dust, that is something that I had not thought about, I am using an ATX power supply that says on the label the 12 volt rail is capable of 13 amps, I am not sure how I can check if it does, In my estimation the heated bed extruder and motors should be using less than that but perhaps I am wrong?. Since posting this original message I have been looking very closely at my gcode and slicerby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, my i3 clone with auto levelling induction probe and reprap discount smart controller is posing me great problems. I can move all axis individually home all with G28 level the bed from smart controller or pronterface with G29, heat up the diamond type nozzle manually extrude plastic but when I try to send gcode, problems, the G28 and G29 at the start of the code work perfectly, the bed aby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all I do not have a diamond or even a clone but I made a copy, the first one failed to heat up to temp even with a 40 watt heater so the next one I made I modified to accept two heaters that fixed the heat problem then the blocking started I fixed that by unscrewing the 6 mm SS threaded connectors and drilled a clearance hole through the cooling fins to allow the bowden tube to pass through Iby papakel - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I have got a similar problem I have recently built from scratch an i3 clone with auto levelling and a home made mixing nozzle based on the diamond nozzle, I have upgraded the electronics from sanguinololu on my last printer to arduino mega 256 and ramps 1.4 with an add on stepper driver running from the aux pins to run the third extruder and a smart controller screen. I have uploaded Marlby papakel - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi gents, I have fixed my problem I designed and made an aluminium cone with a 10mm brass nozzle set in the bottom then I drilled the filament tubes to intersect at the base in the brass nozzle as does the diamond and then drilled two 6mm x 21mm deep heater holes vertically between the filament holes to accept 2 Chinese 40 watt heaters and now pid tuning work like a dream and temperatures in exceby papakel - Mechanics
thanks o-lampe, I will try thatby papakel - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, can someone please help, I am building or have built an I3 printer with auto levelling probe and mixer nozzle as a follow on from my standard I3 clone. my problem is that the probe which I have set to use Z min pin, the auto levelling works fine but the G28 homing although going through the routine as I would expect sets the X and Y to 0.00 but after setting the Z the nozzle to 0.00 raisby papakel - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Roxy, I am slightly confused, I firstly set my probe on the Z min pin which worked or appeared to but when I tried to home Z the machine went through the homing routine but when the home position was reached i.e. X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 the Z axis raised to approx 10mm above the bed. So I refitted the Z micro switch to Z min pin and connected the probe to Z max pin resulting in perfect homing thougby papakel - Firmware - Marlin
Hi all, I have the same problem with my homemade diamond hotend I can confirm it is made to the drawing sizes and specs and from solid brass, I have a 12 volt 40 Watt chinese heater and have checked its values with ohms law i.e 12 volt 40 watt calculates to 3.6 ohms resistance which it measures, I reversed the cooling air flow direction of the fan sucking air upwards from the hotend and flowingby papakel - Mechanics
Hi all, I am trying to find a solution to this problem also, but not being an electronics wizard I am at a bit of a loss. So far I have found an add on board design for the driver intended for the ramps board, I figure that the 12v,the 5v and negative are not a problem e.g straight from the power supply leaving the Step, Enable and Direction to deal with. My tiny brain is wondering if the "enabby papakel - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks o_lampe, I appreciate what you say about cost, that is not the point making it provides a challenge and therefor more satisfaction when one gets thing working, after all I could have bought a clone i3 but unboxing does not do it for me. However thanks for the info and the link, mixing now seams a little clearer.by papakel - Developers
Hi all reprapers, I am also an old guy, DOB. 26.02.45 very interested in colour mixing I have built a prusa i3 from scratch using ardurino ramps 1.4 with a 3rd extruder driver running off AUX 2, I made a copy of the diamond hot end from a drawing I downloaded and copied the aluminium fins, my problem is that my standard heater cartridge will not lift the temperature above 150 deg so I have ordereby papakel - Developers
Hi all, I know that this thread is long in the tooth but so am I, I bought a reprap smart controller some time ago and when it came, it came with the ramps interface no good for my sanguinololu, time passed and I found a correct interface for the sanguinololu on ebay that has now arrived but I still cannot get the display or sd card to work. On first powering up even the backlight does not light.by papakel - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi now that I have tried I find that bothe th G commands work though not when they are on the same line so I have created a command button in pronterface with G92 X0.00 and when I jog X to 68mm I click the button and bingo X0.00 is set to actual position. This works great because I can jog to any X position and click the button to set its position to 0.00. Thanks again for all the helpby papakel - General
Hi Dust, did you follow the youtube link. I tried your suggestion i,e, G1 X68 G92 X 0 which as no errors were generated I assumed was fine, but when I entered G1 X-10 the printer went straight th the X home position, "limit switch" and not as I expected X58 from the limit switch position. Do I need to set X68 as an offset prior to the G92 ectby papakel - General
Thanks Dust, I saw this youtube clip which started me off www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNh0ubRcTYU I made the elastic band tensioner on the scriber and it apears to compensate for the board thickness and scribes the tracks with great precision, much finer than I can cut with my cnc due to tool sizes, my problem is when I turn the board over to scribe the second side the gcode produced by Eagle softwaby papakel - General
Hi all. I am not a complete newby but new to useing a silver steel scriber on my marlin printer to scribe the tracks on a PCB board, I am confident to scribe the first side and have learned how to create an offset equal to the size of the board but I have not yet found the way to assign the offset value to 0 (home position) so that the gcode for the second side generated by Eagle and useing negaby papakel - General