Show all posts by user
Page 2 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 31 — 60 of 73
Bought some synchromesh cable and pulleys from them before. No problems, They are a reputable company
by
Justblair
-
Reprappers
Looks pretty impressive. Interested in how the threads are calculated. I would be interested in experimenting with this. However I would be making a metric version.
by
Justblair
-
West of England RUG
Wired1 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Awesome info Blair - how come the price difference
> is so great between the two links you posted? the
> second one is freight free too.
What two links?
Oh PS.. Make sure that you dont use springs on your print bed as you see on earlier designs. There is no need for them and they just add backlash. If you look i
by
Justblair
-
New Zealand RepRap User Group
For a standard Prusa here is my list of Mods or options that you should consider.
Linear bearings.
Finer grade belts or my favourite synchroMesh cable (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdSNRCEeU64) from SDP who ship from USA
(Easier to align, less backlash)
Buy also some extra 8mm threaded rod, nuts and bolts for a brace. You can print it yourself and retro fit it to your printer
(Printer fra
by
Justblair
-
New Zealand RepRap User Group
I personally prefer using syncromesh cable to belts and find it a lot easier to get to run true. To get it to run true on the bearings i use this...
Syncromesh cable and pulleys can be bought here...
https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=768
You can see it working on my standard Mendel i2 on this youtube video
by
Justblair
-
Mendel90
The Peek is designed in these extruders to operate as a thermal barrier between the hot end and the extruder. If you use aluminium to replace this piece you will need to come up with a way to cool it to a temperature compatible with your extruder body. Trouble you have with this is that Alu conducts heat well. If you cool the Alu, heat will transfer from your heater.
Not impossible to get r
by
Justblair
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
Thanks for the explanation.... I understand now.
The reason I asked about the resolution of the firmware was that if I set a layer height of say 0.319, will the firmware round that down to perhaps 0.3 say?
I have tried your calculator to decide what steps I should us in Sfact. My layers were already pretty decent, but looking at two prints side by side I can just about see an improvement in
by
Justblair
-
Developers
You are not the first to have this problem, there are a number of solutions. Your quickest one is to use some tie wrap to pull the motor back to parallel. Loop it round the M8 rod and the motor and pull it to close the gap before the two.
You might find that will be sufficient for you. But there are better designs available. Here is mine
My files are available on thingiverse
I combine
by
Justblair
-
Reprappers
Ok so it's not quite available in shops, but it is reasonably priced and available mail order... Synchromesh cable
I use it on both the X and Y axis. I am getting pretty good results from it and prefer it over the standard timing belts for various reasons.
I have some footage of it working in my new Yaxis motor bracket...
Sychromesh cable and pulleys are available from Stock Drive Produc
by
Justblair
-
General
L4nce0 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've just made an applet to help people figure out
> optimal layer heights. You can pick out the level
> of resolution, and put in any nozzle sizes. The
> defaults are for my prusa. It also lists in order
> starting with best, the top 5 layer heights ( as
> it outputs a lot of information)
Nice tool, thanky
by
Justblair
-
Developers
Very sturdy looking printer. I hope that you clear that third level wiggle, cause otherwise your print quality is fantastic.
Thanks for sharing
by
Justblair
-
Reprappers
QuoteWith the underside, I am using tin foil in oven bag and a piece of thin wood at the bottom.
Do you have an air gap between the base and your heated print bed?
QuoteDo you think ABS is trickier to print compared to PLA?
A bit, though once you get a working setup, not a huge difference. I get better looking prints from PLA, but more durable from ABS
QuoteAnother question, what happens when
by
Justblair
-
General
QuoteMy heated bed can only go up to 70C with a piece of glass on top, will this be hot enough?
Not in my experience. I run my heated bed at 100C and get pretty good adhesion.
What design of bed are you using? 70C seems pretty low.
How do you have your bed mounted? Do you have the bed mounted flat against another surface? I have tried a couple of things that allowed me to get to higher t
by
Justblair
-
General
I am not sure what dimensions you are looking for, but if you have the stl that you are trying to replicate can I suggest downloading the free version of 3dtool
Click here to go to the 3dtool website.
It will allow you to take decent measurements and also examine cross sections of stl files.
There are of course other software tools that do the same thing, this just happens to be the one I use.
by
Justblair
-
Reprappers
Holy Thread Revival Batman!!
Just did the backlash test.
My results...
backlash x: 0.046mm
backlash y: 0.107mm
This is on a Prusa V2 (pretty much) with Syncromesh cable rather than belts.
Ok.
I tried putting the above measurements into the lash module and ran the test again.
On the Y axis I saw an improvement, 0.019mm. That's quite a difference.
The X axis got worse though 0.098mm
by
Justblair
-
Skeinforge
Pure Acetone is going to be better.
There are Sally shops in Cork I believe. If you do find one, my next top tip is this. Buy a 125ml and a 500ml bottle of pure acetone. With the 125ml bottle, everytime you have scrap ABS plastic either from failed prints, or if you are printing a perimeter each time, cut the scrap up and put it in the bottle to make ABS juice. Its great stuff for preparin
by
Justblair
-
Ireland RepRap User Group
Do you have any health and beauty shops, you know the places that hairdressers or beauticians would buy their supplies from?
I have a local Sally Salon Services that supplies it in various sizes. It's a cheap purchase from here.
I would imagine that most chemists will have it as well. It is used to remove nail varnish. Just watch out, not all nail varnish is acetone. Some of it is acetone f
by
Justblair
-
Ireland RepRap User Group
Not sure which pin will be pin 5,
Your encoder can have several different pins...
Do you mean pin 5 as per my schematic?
Your rotary encoder if it an alps style encoder will have three pins on one side, two pins on the other.
The side with 3 pins will be the encoder part. The middle pin attaches to ground. the other two to pins D33 and D35 on your ramps AUX-4 connector
On the other sid
by
Justblair
-
RAMPS Electronics
I am guessing then that you need to use a variable resistor as per my schematic. This will allow you to adjust the contrast for your display.
When HD44780 LCD displays start up they normally display that test pattern I described above. If you are not seeing that then there is a good chance that the contrast is set incorrectly.
Its the first thing that I would try so we can rule it out.
by
Justblair
-
RAMPS Electronics
Ok.
Did you use a variable resistor to alter the contrast by adjusting the voltage at pin3 of the LCD?
When you power up your LCD, do you get the test pattern, ie one row blank, the other row completely lit up (a row of blocks)? before the lcd initialises. If you were to program your arduino to do the blink sketch (ie no lcd instructions) this should stay on this way.
Have you tried using a
by
Justblair
-
RAMPS Electronics
Em... The way you have wired it bears little resemblance to the link that you posted
Look at my schematic here
You have wired to the pins at the other end of the AUX-4 Port from the sumpod example.
I have this working using pretty much the same wiring as them.
Have a quick review of your wiring versus the schematic on my website (above) see if it is ok.
Alternatively if you are using Marli
by
Justblair
-
RAMPS Electronics
I am using 3mm float (i.e. not treated) glass on my Reprap.
I regularly use it at temperatures of 100c and 60c (ABS and PLA respectively) and have had no cracking incidents at all. I have had it up to temperatures of 125c without damage, at this temperature ABS prints shrunk anyway.
As far as I understand it, as long as you heat the glass evenly it should not crack. Laminated glass (toughen
by
Justblair
-
General
2nd that for Marlin. I cant remember a version where pwm did not work (well i use RAMPS 1.3, but it is similar enough)
by
Justblair
-
General
What material are you printing in that requires a heatbed temperature of above 120c?
I found that above temperatures of 105c my prints got a little distorted in the layers closest to the print bed. They kinda shrunk for a few layers. Turning the print bed down to 100c fixed the problem.
by
Justblair
-
General
Easiest way to correct it is via the firmware... Look for these lines in the configuration.h file
#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
Whatever INVERT_X_DIR is saying flip it (ie true to false or v
by
Justblair
-
General Mendel Topics
I am not aware of any firmware that supports this at the moment. However, you can use a rotary encoder and 20x4 LCD display with Marlin today.
I have placed a schematic on my blog
Here is some poorly filmed footage of said display working
With SD ramps, you have an autonomous printer.
by
Justblair
-
RAMPS Electronics
I am not sure how you would implement it from Gcodes?
There is simply too many devices out there. Although they may follow the same communication protocol, that doesn't mean that they have uniform commands.
Perhaps you have some ideas on what devises you envisage being connected to the board?
by
Justblair
-
Developers
evilb Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Looks quite useful!
>
> What did you use to do you SD card, did you get a
> sdramps kit?
>
> evert
Yes, that is the one that I used. I have sitting beside me a cheapo full sized module that I bought off ebay for a couple of quid. I reckon that this might be a winner as well. Going to play with it later
by
Justblair
-
General
The major advantage of the rotary encoder is cost and simplicity.
Cheap encoders cost tiny amounts on E-bay whereas the makerbot kit you refer to has PCBs etc.
In terms of moving the print head around, this is not something that you need to do very often and probably not more than one axis at a time. It is easy enough to use a rotary encoder for this.
Within the Marlin firmware there is a
by
Justblair
-
General
I have added some basic schematics and build notes to my website... Apologies for the crudeness of the writing, I will tidy it up an add information as I work it all out. Should be enough though to help get you running
by
Justblair
-
General
Page 2 of 3
Pages: 123