So even though I am not plugging in the EXTRU or HB yet, I need the thermistors in place to test the motors? Both of them? That's an easy fix if that's it. Thanks. I will try.by charlieRC - Controllers
I built a prusa about a year ago and it has worked flawlessly since. I used a 12v p/s and the Rambo 1.1b board and marlin firmware with pronterface. I am now trying to build another printer using a 24v p/s and a Rambo 1.2e. I loaded the exact same version of marlin firmware and started by testing the motors but I am getting "printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use m999 to. Restart.by charlieRC - Controllers
Is it ok to use a mixture of mechanical and optical end stops?. Is there a setup in Marlin that this will complicate? The reason I am asking is that I have both and my new machine Y axis carrage would be easier to setup with an optical switch, while I prefer mechanical switches wherever possible.by charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
In testing a Rambo board for my second Prusa, I seemed to have blown up the board. I am using a 24v power supply that is wired correctly and tested. I plugged In the power supply to the board (with no other connections made) and I got a puff of smoke and visible damage to two of the chips (U2 and U10). When I picked up the board, I found that I had placed the board on a piece of scrap solder wby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
Related question (I hope)? I am building my second reprap with a rambo using a 24 volt p/s. Since I want to limit the amount of damage if I discover something about the 24 volt under fire, I wanted to get my hot end and bed working without the motors connected (foolishly or not, I figured that might protect the motor drivers). I knew as mentioned above not to unplug the motors under power. Mby charlieRC - Controllers
NewPerfection: I went ahead and ordered the parts you indicated. This made more sense to me than buying another power supply to go with the 24v p/s for the Rambo, Jhead and motors. I stumble through with the help of my efriends, but I always get there. I still want to try making a pcb bed, but I can do that for the next one. Thanks all.by charlieRC - Reprappers
This is another exampe of "be careful what you ask for". Size on the QUBD 12 X 12 is exactly what I was hopping to find. What I didn't expect is 20 amps. I'm going to need to figure out how to handle this. Right now, my existing reprap is on a 12 x 20 (240w) power supply. Now they are recommending a dedicated power supply that can handle 20 amps for this QUBD bed.. At this point, I am plby charlieRC - Reprappers
I'm building my second Prusa, making this one larger and 24 volt. I could handle a heatbed up to about 350 x 350. Does anyone have any idea if such a heatbed can be found? I will probably settle for anything larger than the 200 x 200 heatbed on my current prusa. Biggest I've seen so far is 200x300. It that's the best I can do I guess it will be ok. I plan to use the Rambo board again andby charlieRC - Reprappers
Problem solved thanks to you all. The pin was the problem. I removed the factory solder with wick, fluxed it real good and resoldered. I also cleaned the post again real good and changed the female plug again. Just did a two hour print and it stayed cool the whole time. Thank you very much. And now I know about "dry joints" I already new about crunchy joints (in my knees) but this seemby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
No nothing seems to heat up except the one side of the bed female plug (and I guess the male as well). I will try wicking and re soldering and see if that works. Thanks.by charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
When you say dry solder joint, would that not be visible on the factory solder joint? Dry joint is a new term for me. By rework, should I assume you mean to remove as much of the solder as I can and then resolder? Thank you for your response. Charlieby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
I have a problem with one of the hot bed pins on my Rambo board getting extremely hot (I can't touch it at all). I am now on my third female connector and it is starting to bubble up as well. I have replaced the wiring to the bed with heavier (18) wire, inspected the male pin VERY closely, cleaned it and I can't seem to figure out why it is getting so hot. The fact that the pin looks every biby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
Boy is my face red!!! Turns out I was impatient. Although I can't seem to control the first layer support material spacing, all other layers seem to behave as they should. I guess the new version prints a 1 layer raft with a tight pattern, but then subsequent layers follow the specified criteria. My apologies to the Gods of Spic3r and anyone else I may have mislead. Charlieby charlieRC - General
I seem not to be able to go back to the previous version either. I tried running 0.9.8 that was still on my machine and it ran 0.9.10 anyway. I guess something got overwritten in the old folder even though I installed 10 in a new folder. Crap Hope they get it fixed soon.by charlieRC - General
Actually, I downloaded it and tried to install, but something weird happened. My machine became very latent and slow to repond. Nothing ever came up. I may download it again in case something went south on the download, but I would like to hear from someone who is using it on windows safely. This I my main machine for work as well as fun, so I can't afford to have it take a dump on me.by charlieRC - General
I am using windows. Not familiar with Cura. Is there a windows versionby charlieRC - General
Slic3r .9.10 seems to disregard the support spacing settings. I typically will set my support from 2.5mm to 5mm depending on what I am supporting. With this new version of Slic3r, it does not seem to matter what I put in for support spacing. I get what seems to be a random spacing, typically very vary small. I tried making the spacing larger and every time I print the spacing my increase, decby charlieRC - General
OK, I removed the threaded rod and coupler from the z axis, removed the wire I had wrapped around the rod because of the size differnce between the 8mm coupler and the 5/16 threaded rod. I put a piece of shrink tube on the rod and shrunk it and then replaced the coupler. It worked perfectly on the side that had the most wabble. I did the same thing on the other side and although it helped, theby charlieRC - General Mendel Topics
Whoh!! I never even considered that. If fits. I think the threaded rod DOES wabble a bit (so not sure why this never occurred to me). I am shut down for the evening, but I just held up a scrap of the 5/16 threaded rod from the z axis and the tooth pattern EXACTLY matches the wave pattern. Whahoo! I think the reason the z axis wobbles a bit is that I could not find a 5mm to 5/16 coupler,by charlieRC - General Mendel Topics
I have a reprap prusa, wade extruder, 3mm abs and .5 nozzle. I am having a problem that I can't figure out. My prints show a wave pattern along the X axis on both vertical sides (I included a not so great image). I can't figure out what is causing it. It seems to be on a pretty uniform 4.5 layer cycle (on a 72 layer print there are 16 wave cycles). Nothing seems to make sense to explain it.by charlieRC - General Mendel Topics
I have a repRap Prusa using a wades extruder with 3mm ABS and a .5 nozzle. The print quality is at best acceptable. I yearn for more. one problem is that the extrusion will have gaps for inexplicable reasons. There does not appear to be any slippage on the stepper motor and I can't "feel" any gaps in the movement of the filiment, but I suspect slippage at the hob bolt. I went to a strongerby charlieRC - General Mendel Topics
Thank you very much sheck626! That is an excellent description of the process. If I understand correctly the width is pretty much determined by the nozzle diameter, and the height by the layer height, is that correct? I am currently using a .5 nozzle and a layer height .3. That should yield a WOH of .5/.3 or 1.667, correct? If I want to try a 2.2 WOH, then I would want to try a layer heigby charlieRC - Reprappers
waitaki: I am currently using .3 mm layer. Never changed from the default because I was not sure of the implications. If I were to change this to .2 or .25, are there other changes that would have to be made to accommodate this? I know it would slow down printing. I did set the external perimeter speed to 40%. The regular perimeter speed is 30mm/s and 60mm/s for infill, which I thinkby charlieRC - Reprappers
Actually, I'm not using a fan. I printed an x-carriage that would support a fan, but never installed it because I was getting feedback that it probably wouldn't offer much unless I was going to switched to PLA. Do you think I need to install it? I wonder if reducing the layer height might help.by charlieRC - Reprappers
I built a prusa mendal and am fairly happy with the print quality I am getting (could be better but getting there). Even so... Is there anything I can do to improve the strength of the bond between layers. I have designed to take advantage of the strength of the XY plan, but sometimes, I need a bit more strength in Z as well. Is there anything I should be considering to improve the strength acby charlieRC - Reprappers
I am having the same problem. It seems that the simpler the object I try to run through Slic3r, the more likely it is to produce this error. At present, I am just trying to slice a simple L-bracket with some slots for screws. After getting this error I created a simple 90mm x 42mm by 5mm cube (one leg of the L bracket) with no other features and still got the same error. I am using Alibre PEby charlieRC - Slic3r
Thanks Lotw, I print exclusively ABS at this point, so maybe it would not have any advantage to me. I went ahead and designed and printed a x-carriage that incorporated the fan mount and a belt tensioner, but I have been putting off swapping it out with my regular one. Maybe I'll wait until I have a better reason to. Thanks again Charlieby charlieRC - Reprappers
I am fairly new to 3d printing and so far have had fairly good luck as the quality of my prints keeps improving. I have a prusa using budaschnozzle with no fan. I have been thinking that the fan might help me some how but really don't know "with what". I guess if it's not broke, it might not need fixing, but since I don't know what a fan would do for me quality wise, I may not know if it neeby charlieRC - Reprappers
Hi All, I figure out my problem. It turned out that even though in the code, the bed seemed to be connected to the forth thermister header on the rambo, I need to plug it into the third. The reason that the heat was not coming on was that the thermistor was showing zero temp and the minimum to turn on was set to 30c I set it to -50c and the bed came on. Then, once plugged into the right theby charlieRC - General Mendel Topics
I tested the temp using a multimeter thermalcouple that I think is farely accurate. Turns out the temp runs about 20 C below what marlin reports. Glad to send pics, but not sure what picture would be helpful I have also found that when I get the extruder up to 230C (pronterface reports almost 270) it seems to extrude ok. But when I start the print, there is a long pause while the temp dropby charlieRC - Reprappers