Thanks again for all the advice everyone, I also thought the temp at 280 was way too high and that may be why the abs was melting up at the end of the threaded part but I was trying to get it to extrude a bit easier. I think the problem with the temp cutting out and the abs not extruding was my wrapping of the hotend alloy block. I didn't have and capton tape so I used muffler bandage and thisby gregted - Reprappers
I have found some problems with the design of my hot end. pic named hot end... The peek tube is the issue. I can only screw the metal part of my hot end inside the peek tube up to 15mm. I can slide a 4mm bolt up to 19.4mm. This 4mm is the thickness of the blockage in the previous picture. Pic named hot end failure.. It appears that the peek tube is only threaded up to 15mm and there is a furtby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks for the replys, I have a flat on both sides of my stepper shaft but the grub screw twists off the flat and slips. It is indeed the gear slipping on the shaft. I can see the motor shaft turning in the hole in the end of the herringbone gear. I have the peek block zip tied to my x carriage so there is no stress on that part. My nozzle size is 0.5mm and I have been extruding at any whereby gregted - Reprappers
Hey all, I am still having problems with my small herringbone gear on my gregs accessible extruder slipping on my stepper motor shaft. I have ground 2 flats on either side of my shaft, added another grub screw and captive nut and even encased the round part of the gear in a metal sleeve to stop it breaking out. pic included. With all this, the gear still slips on the shaft. I suspect it is aby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks Polyhonhell, I turned the pot down and the next print went better. Now I just have to stop the small gear on my extruder from breaking out the grub screws that hold it on the shaft causing the extruder to not extrude on a perfect print. Have filled the base of the small gear with epoxy and I will re drill the holes for the grub screws when it sets and I hope this makes it stronger. It'by gregted - Reprappers
I am so close to making "Woody" work it's not funny. Here are some pics of the herringbone gear I printed this morning. The print went perfectly until the direction changes at halfway up the gear and the top round part. This has be baffled. How can the calibration be out when the bottom third is perfect including the center hole at 4.67mm and then the printer skips 5mm exactly to the right atby gregted - Reprappers
Nice work.. I will be very happy when my heringbone gears look like that. See pitiful attempt attached. As bad as this looks, this is my first print on the printer also attached, built from discarded bits of ply from under my work bench and you have no idea how excited the family was to see something printed. I will be using your calibration settings today to see if I can get mine as good as yoby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks all for your help. Got the attached file from the supplier of my circuit board and it worked great. Now I just need to work out the settings. I have the original gears on my steppers and t5 belts so I know this is unusual but I may be able to tweak it enough when I work out how to move the x and y just a bit. Currently, the printer starts a print to the right, rear of my plate so my stepby gregted - Printing
Had my first successful print last night of herringbone small gear. The problem was solved by using blue painters tape on my glass. I still need calibration but it works. Maybe someone can help with settings for sprinter. I am ble to change the settings now but need the numbers. I am using 2.5 gears on x and y ( I think, they came with the steppers ) with t5 belts, and gregs accessable extruby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks guys, I have adjusted my hotend down to about 3 mm clearance between my alloy block and my tip. I have ordered some kafton tape and will buy some blue painters tape today. The type at Bunnings in Australia is called edgelock but is still 3m blue painters tape so I hope this is the same. Will cloth tape work as well? I am using a tdc347 thermistor on my hotbed but I don't think the hotbeby gregted - Reprappers
I am getting very frustrated with a problem I hope someone can help with. My printer is working perfectly apart from one small problem. The abs wont stick to my glass bed. I have a heated bed at 110 and a hot end at 230. The new hobbed bolt I made works great and there is abs extruding very well but it just won't stick. I have tried glass cleaner, acetone, masking tape, upping the bed temp toby gregted - Reprappers
Hi, I have woody, my reprap printer almost running but have issues with some things that I hope someone can help with. Number one is my hotbed not heating up and reading 357 degrees in pronterface. I have been told by the supplier of my thermistor to change the settings in sprinter to read the b number as 4000 and I have no idea how to do this. I am also using heringbone gears and just foundby gregted - Reprappers
I am having this problem also. The extruder seems to be extruding ok but will not stick to unheated glass. I have a hotbed but Pronterface says the temp is 357 degrees but it does not heat up. How do I flash my sanguinololu with sprinter?by gregted - Printing
Thanks nelson, I opened skeinforge and the base and interface temperature were set to 200. Settings now are... Base temp 230 Interface temp 230 Object first layer infill is 195. Object first layer perimeter is 220 Object next layers is 230 Support layers temp is 200 Supported layers is ............... 23by gregted - Reprappers
I've got similar problems with my hotend. Heats up well but drops to 200 before it starts to print regardless of my settings in pronterface, and hot bed reads 357 degrees but cold to touch. Have to check the thermistors. Also I have seem some hot ends with a resistor at either end of the alloy block. Does this help? I solved it by switching on "smoothing" in the firmware which wasn't set on bby gregted - Reprappers
Hey all, My reprap is almost there but some teetheing problems remain so after some advice. My hotend is working now after I strapped a ceramic wirewound resistor to the side of my alloy hot end block. Pronterface gets it up to 230 degrees fairly quick but when I try the callibration cube, the temp drops to 200 before it starts to print. I can get over this by setting the temp to 260 and lettiby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks Bob, I thought that might be the problem. I have some square wire wound resistors but they are ceramic casings. Pic attached... Will these work and how do I attach them. The hole in my hot end is circular not square so do I just glue it to the side of the aloy block?by gregted - Reprappers
Hot end is the type in the pic and the power supply with multimeter reading of atx power supply is in the other pic. My hot end reads 17 deg when cold so I assume that is air temp then as follows. 150 at 6mins 42 secs 155 at 7.40 160 at 9.13 165 at 12.40 and 168 at 31 mins 40 secs and steady. My hotend came with the resistor wrapped and sealed in an alluminum sleeve so i don't know the ratingby gregted - Reprappers
I have the opposite problem with my hot end. I can't get it above 170. I am using pronterface and have set temp to 230 but hot end gets to 165 at 12.40 minutes and only 168 at 31.40 minutes and then hovers around that temp.by gregted - Reprappers
Got my reprap together and trying to get the hotend to heat up but it won't go above 170. Temp in pronterface is set to 230 for abs. I'm using the one in the pic attached and running Pronterface. My electronics is Sanguinololu 1.3 and power is 500 watt computer supply. Everything else is working fine.by gregted - Repetier
In pronterface there is a window to the left bottom that displays heater and bed temp. I would unplug the hotend until you adjust this. 350 will melt eveything. In my version of pronterface, you can chose abs pre set at 230 and pla set at 185 or type in what ever temp you want. Your Y axis problem sounds like your electronics are not picking up your endstops. If you are using micro switches, Tby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks nophead. I turned these pots right down to full anti clockwise, so zero, and the motors are still turning and cold to the touch. I understand that I may have to turn these up slightly when I mount them and apply a load but at the moment running cold.by gregted - Reprappers
I have my atx computer power supply to run my sanguinololu board and steppers but need to extend the wires on my steppers. The wiring on the computer is thicker than the wires on my steppers but my question is can I join these computer wires to the stepper motors so I don't have to buy any more wiring. I have lots of computer power supplies and would like to reuse these wires if possible.by gregted - Reprappers
Just made a jig to press the small gears off steppers motors using just a drill press. Could also be used to press new gears back on. Video on youtube is here.. Gregby gregted - Reprappers
Might have found the adjust trimpot on my a4988 pololus board. Are they the small screws beside each heatsink as indicated in the photo? If this is correct, do I turn them to the left until the motors stop turning and turn them back up until the motors start to turn plus a bit to get the lowest current setting and avoid overheating? Pic included Thanksby gregted - General
Thanks to nophead and others, my motors are turning now. Had to switch outside two wires on each end and use the 4 middle wires as orange, blue, yellow and red. The wiring diagram explained it very well. I found out the centre taps were the outside wires and they weren't needed. I opened pronterface and tried the hollow cube callibration and all motors seem to turn as they should but after 5 miby gregted - Reprappers
Yeah. I thought they looked like the 2.5 gears i've seen on the net. If so, I will leave x and y alone. I still have to get rid of the gears for the extruder and z axis though.by gregted - General
All seems ok so far. I just ran the hollow calibration cube from thingiverse and all motors seem to be operating as they should. Another question though for future reference. Where do I find the pot to adjust it? Do I have to unplug the stepper driver board? I can't see any pot on the board. Gregby gregted - General
Wired as per nophead suggestion and all seems good. The only problem I have now is getting the gears off the shafts of my steppers. It looks like they are just pressed on so i will take them to the local electrical repair shop tomorrow and see if they agree and then work out how to press them off. Thanks all again but I'm not printing yet so more questions to come. Greg Pic of motors includeby gregted - General