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Printing issues ...
I would suspect that the major error, given good quality float glass, is the deflection of the smooth rods due to the weight of the extruder carriage.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
Here is mine:
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
The hotend looks like it was imported from China. It is cheaper to order such things direct from China.
A lot of people have reported problems with cheaper hotends. I think it is worth the extra to buy the guaranteed high quality original from
If you buy Chinese goods from a reseller you can pay a lot more than ordering direct. As an example:
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
These people ship from China. Good quality PLA for around $10/kg FOB.
. Even with Fedex shipping I haven't seen a cheaper supplier in Eastern Europe.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
eSUN PETG works fine for me with 245C hotend and 100C bed. Retraction is set at 2mm and I have minimal stringing.
I am using Steinforge. I am printing on clean glass with no spray or glue.
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Quotedmould
Yes, my present design also has the battery attached by velcro straps to the lower plate (it is loosely based on this design ) - , though surprisingly I found over various designs that a lower C of G does not make a great deal of difference to the stability in flight. The PIDs need to be set up carefully on the controller, and always use "stability" mode (for MultiWii that's "Horizo
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Ralph.Hilton
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Ormerod
There is a considerable difference between PET and PETG. PET seems similar to PLA but PETG is way superior having almost zero warp without a print bed cooler and being a lot stronger from my observations without scientific testing.
I print PETG at 245C hotend and 100C (85 at glass top) bed for best results whereas PET prints at similar temperatures to PLA.
I received a couple of rolls of eSUN PET
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Ralph.Hilton
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Ormerod
How to upgrade depends on the filament width. There are diagrams on .
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
There are a couple of suppliers of the Mendel90 with good reputations. It is similar to the Prusa i3 but I would consider the design to be superior.
The cost is a lot higher than many Prusa i3 overseas products but providing excellent customer support takes a lot of time.
looks good but I don't have personal experience with them.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General Mendel Topics
This would have to be a purely intellectual exercise. Repraps and filament based printers will only be around for a few years before high powered laser printers take over.
I would start with putting the base in a slab of concrete. For high speeds the printing base would have to be very stationary.
My bets would be on a delta design.
The Arduino Due would seem to provide the computing power. Ardui
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
15 x 15 aluminium extrusion has a noticeable bend when supporting a carriage. You would have to work out a way of compensating for that in hardware or firmware.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
I would suggest looking at the Marlin firmware. Various thermistors are listed.
Any thermistor could be used that is ok with the temperature (250C), fits in the hole and has a suitable resistance which means around 100k at room temperature but you would need to create your own lookup table for unlisted ones.
I ordered a few extra thermistors from the E3D manufacturer myself as a precautionary mea
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
I built a Mendel90 with a kit from nophead and a Kossel mini from .
Both work well and customer service is excellent.
The Mendel90 needs a bit of adaptation to work with an E3D hotend.
The Kossel mini comes with the E3D so I would recommend that one. The print quality is excellent for small details:
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Here are the engineering drawings:
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
For high resolution prints I would suggest a hotend with interchangeable size nozzles such as the E3D. Prints of the quality in your link take a long time and you may want to change things around while working out the best balance between speed and quality. I don't see a real difference in quality between cartesian and delta print quality having used both.
Factors in the choice would be your loc
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
rammsteini gets my vote - excellent print!
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Speed tests:
top .35 layers 7m 0s
left .4 layers 4m 56s
right .45 layers 4m 29s
All with 0.6 nozzle
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Mendel90 E3dv6
PLA extruder 230 bed 65
Skeinforge 0.2mm layer 11m 19s
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Are you sure this note at the end is correct?
2.Need customers welding and assembly
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Ralph.Hilton
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Prusa i3 and variants
Arduino boards and shieds do not fall in any of the lists of products requiring CE certification from my understanding:
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
The threaded rod arrangement of the i2 requires a lot more adjustment to accurately set up.
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
2.3% not 23%
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Mine did that and I patched it together with epoxy then printed a new one.
My new one is printed using PETG and hasn't cracked.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
Openscad does appear a bit daunting at first but I found a good tutorial at
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
I would run the PID tune several times through then see if it behaves better. Any fans that are running during a print need to be on for the auto tune.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
Quotevorac
I decided I want to source everything I can. Do you know a good online store to buy fasteners? I dont want one where I have to buy at least 25 or 100 pieces, I already found those. I know stores where you can buy even 1 bolt exist but can't find them!
I think you would spend less getting a fasteners set from the link I posted above.
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
For mendel90 printed parts (UK) :
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General