Yes you can enable and use 1 max endstop (for some reason a lot of people have started using X max endstop) The machine actually has software endstops for the endstops your missing, but hardly anyone sets their travel limits correctly so they hardly ever kick in.by Dust - Mechanics
there are various fan extenders, just google for them, Yes they just connect to various aux pins and the fan in attached via a mosfet you will probably have to tweak your pins.h for auto control, depending on what pins you use.by Dust - Controllers
In my view a web interface is a con. a) you are back to needing a comping device to see it, the main reason for a LCD was to remove the need to have a computing device. b) you need a working network to see it. Adds in more levels of insecurity and more points of failure. c) in most cases this opens up your reprap to the internet, ie it will get hacked eventually, no matter how secure you thinkby Dust - Mechanics
Two options. set Z0 (min end stop) to be at the hot end, z+ must move the bed down, home direction -1 Then add a G1 Z(height of z travel) to your gcode.end or equivalent file in your slicer program to lower the print to the bottom on finish. Or you could do the reverse Put a max end stop at the Z bottom position, set home direction 1, and make sure the #define Z_MAX_POS 200 is equal to yoby Dust - Mechanics
not sure I understand entirely but home is always physical home, ie move until it hits a limit switch and then your at the home location as defined in firmware. If you want to go to a certain location, just G1 to it, if you need that to be 0, then eg G1 X68 G92 X0, now X0 is physically at X68 and all further G1 X0 will go to it (till its reset) Got any pictures of the results? Sounds intereby Dust - General
LCD's of all sort are useful just to see whats going on. The issue with the GLCD is that its dumb, all graphics bits are directly controlled by the mega, taking lots of cpu cyclesby Dust - Mechanics
you mean a bit like thisby Dust - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
There is also the p3steel frameby Dust - Reprappers
Stepper motors are easy Use pololu drivers Only 3 lines to control enable, step and directions See ramps test code for a simple eg on how to move them The pins are for a ramps board, but just change the pins to match what ever you use as a controller The main issue is you will need some way to set zero position, as steppers do not know where they are on power on. NB the steppers you hby Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
most 3d printers have all parts designed around the dimension of a nema 17, to change it is a big job Look around your area for computer and printer recyclers, bigger places that are user friendly. BUT know what your after nema 17 only defines the X and Y dimensions It doesn’t define the length or the strength, or the size of the mounting holes or even bipolar vs unipolar, or spindle size, noby Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Most 8 bit controllers use 3 jumpers to control the micro stepping, most of these are hidden under the stepper driver as you normally don’t change them (some boards from china have even gone so far as to add tracks so its always 1/16th micro stepping) If you want a graphical lcd, then I also recommend a 32 bit controller for that as 8bits can stutter while updating the glcd.by Dust - Mechanics
injection moulding is for when you want hundreds of millions of a part Reprap parts change far to often and the demand isn’t that high. Also most parts would need to be redesigned as they are not suitable for injection mouldingby Dust - Reprappers
If you have switch type endstops, most require PULLUP's enabled To setup your endstops follow this: Correctly identify what endstops you have on your machine This is for i3 type machines where the bed moves in Y direction. On X axis, if a endstop is on the left its a min endstop, if its on the right its a max endstop On Y axis, if a endstop is on the back its a min endstop, it its at the fronby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
The resolution is dependant on the steppers, the pulleys and the micro stepping (up to a point) See and throw in some random settings Most Cartesian use 8 tooth 2 mm pitch, which is 5micron resolution on X and Y Changing from 1.8 degree steppers to 0.9 degree steppers will double your resolution, but will also halve your max stepper speed on 8bit electronics, they just cant put out enouby Dust - Mechanics
Endstops are normally triggered when the switch is open, I would guess you simply have a bad connector somewhere in the endstop/cables/ramps/mega and its momentarily going open circuit. This could also be electrical noise if your motor wires are two close to endstop wiresby Dust - Reprappers
This is a issue with your hot end thermistor. It can't read any sane value from it so it stops everything till its fixed. Repetier should be showing you the hot end temperature somewhere, this should be room temp before you start heating. If you have a multi meter unplug the thermistor plug from the board and take a resistance reading threw the cables and thermister, its should read around 100Kby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
If you just want on and off (even PWM) you can just connect it to a IO pin (with suitable electronics) and control it with the m42 command Can only use unused pins though, normally used pins are locked out to stop sillynessby Dust - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
picture? But it sounds like you your Y axis upside down... Here is a random x axis, the m5 nut traps are at the top, and gravity holds the plastics over them.by Dust - Mechanics
The stepper circuit is quite simple Where step, direction and enable are all directly connected the the mega MS1, MS2 and MS3 are the micro stepping jumper pins, they get connected to +5v or are disconnected (jumper off) I would firstly check the soldering around the Z driver socket and the stepper plugs on the ramps. And check the ramps mega pin connectors (in particular d46, d48 and a8)by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
All diagrams showing stepper wiring colors should be taken out back and shot! No two steppers from different manufacturers have the same colors, and even sometimes they differ from batch to batch from the same company. from another post I did 15 days ago... For movement you need steppers drivers in the correct way (can be plugged in backwards or off by one very easily) 12v on the 12volt 5amby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Which end is up to you But if its at the front then its a Max endstop and has to be plugged into the max endstop plug and configured to home to max ie in marlin firmware you need to set #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 Now if when you home it goes the wrong way you need to invert direction of movement, by either turning your stepper plug around 180 degrees or find #define INVERT_Y_DIR and change from truby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
version 2.0 is Nightly builds, beta software Maybe try a stable version like 1.0.9 I don’t know of anyone using that on a reprap... I would use proterface at this stage, its known to work well Re endstops... particularly the Y axis people wire it wrong... a standard I3 type design, the Y min endstop is at the back, the Y max is at the front. Make sure you set your firmware to match yoby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
a loose jumper might randomly change the micro stepping,,, but it would just randomly move to far or rattle nosily The stepper circuit is quite simple Where step, direction and enable are all directly connected the the mega MS1, MS2 and MS3 are the micro stepping jumper pins, they get connected to +5v or are disconnected (jumper off) I would firstly check the soldering around the Z driby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
You haven’t mentioned if you set the vref's correctly... which is the most likely cause If it to low the steppers arent strong enough and just skip steps, if its to high the drivers over heat and skips steps.. another option is that that pulleys are spinning on the stepper shafts, put a black mark on the pulleys and shaft, after testing check the line still lines upby Dust - General Mendel Topics
Or the fan is just plugged in backwards But yes some fans require a small capacitor across the terminals to do PWM at slower speeds First try turning it on full speed M106 S255, if this doesn’t stay on, check you have the correct polarity.by Dust - Reprappers
That sounds about right, some pins you can pull 40ma... but still way shortby Dust - General
Stick the ramps on a scanner (remember those?) , take high res scan of the bottom and topby Dust - Reprappers
Thats just odd... Things that come to mind.. 1) you have a SD card with an autostart file eg for marlin "If there is a file auto0.g, the printer will recognize it while booting, and perform its content." 2) the motherboard type is set incorrectly in firmware for your board, causing random signals to be sent to the wrongs pinsby Dust - Reprappers
you would have to check how much current each pin can provide and make sure the fan used less than that. not recommended your aux-1 is the same configuration as as a ramps aux-1 so in theory you can just plug in a RRD fan extender and just use normal 12v fansby Dust - General