Quotedc42 Yes, if you add an external resistor. Thanks for help, yes it is working good now with resistor.by CptanPanic - For Sale
Quotedc42 You can tell whether the sensor has started up in analog or digital mode by counting the number of LED flashes after power up. See the instructions at . Yes 4 flashes, so it is in analog mode, so I guess something is wrong with internal pull-up. I think it may because the way klipper works, it takes a bit for the pin to get configured, so pull-up is not active at start. So can I do manby CptanPanic - For Sale
Quotedc42 If the sensor doesn't detect a pullup resistor to +3.3V or +5V then it operates in pseudo-analog mode, outputting 4 different voltages depending on whether it is a long way from the bed, close to the bed but not quite triggered, close enough to be triggered, or overloaded with ambient light. If the board it is connected to treats the input as digital then it might see the "close to theby CptanPanic - For Sale
David, I sent this also to contact-us form on your site, but doesn't seem to be working correctly. But I have a IR board that I have purchased in 2017, and has worked great, but recently I started using this printer again after a year layoff, and I getting in major outliers .75-1mm in the same position. Also strange is I have the firmware(klipper) checking 3 samples per position now, and sometiby CptanPanic - For Sale
Sounds cool, image doesn't show up for me though.by CptanPanic - General
I saw this kickstarter, and thought that would be a nice type of printer to build. I would like to make it big enough to use standard reprap heated plate (200x200). Any builds or plans for this type?by CptanPanic - General
I dusted off my 3d printer, and decided to update my Marlin firmware. Everything seems to work except auto bed leveling. Firstly I was excited to see mesh leveling available, but found out that it is not automatic yet, so want to just use the normal leveling I had before. I have a fixed inductive probe, but cannot get the correct #defines to get it to compile. So far I have AUTO_BED_LEVELING_by CptanPanic - Firmware - Marlin
Quotestephenrc Make sure Z_SAFE_HOMING is enabled, it's right after the auto-level section. Thanks, that is it.by CptanPanic - Firmware - Marlin
I updated my firmware and now z is being homed at 0,0 and not at center of bed like I would like. Which param do I st using latest RC? Thanks CPby CptanPanic - Firmware - Marlin
Quotetotorovirus I was just curious how those firmwares are developed. Thanks for your reply You could take a look atby CptanPanic - Developers
Quotewendychai80 QuoteCptanPanic QuoteCptanPanic I am having some problems hooking this up also. I have a NPN capacitive proximity sensor, hooked up with the 12V. If I just test it by itself, it seems to work fine. The red LED on the back lights up when it gets close to object, and the sensor wire (Black) goes from 9.5V to 0. The problem is in order to hook up to RAMPS I got a LM7805, and wheby CptanPanic - Reprappers
QuoteCptanPanic I am having some problems hooking this up also. I have a NPN capacitive proximity sensor, hooked up with the 12V. If I just test it by itself, it seems to work fine. The red LED on the back lights up when it gets close to object, and the sensor wire (Black) goes from 9.5V to 0. The problem is in order to hook up to RAMPS I got a LM7805, and when i connect it to the sensor, theby CptanPanic - Reprappers
I am having some problems hooking this up also. I have a NPN capacitive proximity sensor, hooked up with the 12V. If I just test it by itself, it seems to work fine. The red LED on the back lights up when it gets close to object, and the sensor wire (Black) goes from 9.5V to 0. The problem is in order to hook up to RAMPS I got a LM7805, and when i connect it to the sensor, the LED comes hardby CptanPanic - Reprappers
Any ideas on the mods to make this an heated enclosure?by CptanPanic - Smart_Rap
Can you post link to inductive sensor you got?by CptanPanic - Smart_Rap
Cool, let us know how it turns out.by CptanPanic - Developers
You can check out SilentStepStick's which have 1/256 steps.by CptanPanic - General Mendel Topics
Looks great. What are the bass guitar tuners for?by CptanPanic - Developers
So looking into this more, it seems that the profiles are not saved like this and are saved in an local directory as specified by wxWidgets. So will need to keep looking, or submit a feature request.by CptanPanic - Slic3r
I have my ini file in a shared location so I use with slic3r on different machines. Currently I start it with --load and --autosave parameters, but I get strange presets created of type slic3r.ini (modified) when I start up. Is this expected?by CptanPanic - Slic3r
I have a standard i3 prusa, where the bearings on the smooth rod along the z axis are just held in by friction. This is the x-end idler. I am not sure when it started, but there is some play now in there whereas the bearing can rock a bit. Looks like parts are made of PLA, so is this normal to open up over time, would ABS be better? Should I modify to add a zip-tie? Thanks, CP Similar to hby CptanPanic - General Mendel Topics
Seems pretty expensive also for what it includes.by CptanPanic - General
Thanks for the info.by CptanPanic - General
I use autodesk fusion 360, (free for non-commercial)by CptanPanic - 3D Design tools
I am pretty new also, but have gotten things working well with ToyBuilderLabs ABS, with head at 235C, and bed at 125C, and using glass with purple glue on it. I haven't figured out optimal speed, but 50mmps is working so far. It is a single metal frame i3 from DIYTechby CptanPanic - Reprappers
I have a E3D v5 hotend, and printing ABS. I have read how people do tests to find good temp for even different colors of same manufacturer of ABS, but why not just run the same high temp for all of them. For example this person ABS Temp Test Ran at a bunch of different temps, and it seemed that in this case the higher ones were better. If so, why doesn't everyone just say print ABS at 265, orby CptanPanic - General
What did you end up building? Hows it working?by CptanPanic - Reprappers
QuoteOpus In the end I went for the stock extruder/x-carriage on the github site for the i3. The extruder is fine (and fits the E3d well), but I think I might try a 4 bearing x-carriage at some stage. All the 8mm rod we get here is really 7.94mm and the bearings rattle around on them. I'm thinking adding another bearing might cut down on the amount of play. For the stock extruder, what eby CptanPanic - General Mendel Topics
Hello, I have a DiyTechShop i3a and had the Y idler crack next to the bearing, so I printed another one and it cracked there also. First I think that it would be a lot stronger if the bearing in was boxed in, but maybe I am not using the right settings. Anyone else have this problem?by CptanPanic - General Mendel Topics