Maybe compressed air or rinsing with 100% alcohol?by chngyian - General
Have a simple idea that I'd love to try out, but would like to get some comments first. If a falling out or faulty thermistor is the top reason in causing fire, can I just add a second thermistor to the heating block of the hotend and monitor the temperature? If the temperature exceeds a preset (indicating a thermal runaway), heating and printing would stop. Would like to some of your commentsby chngyian - Safety & Best Practices
Quotetmorris9 The part is stuck to the bed so the bottom stays relatively same size. Heated bed caused it to shrink as it goes up squeezing the middle inward but the further away you get from the heated bed the effect diminishes so it returns to proper size and that is why you get the hour glass look. 80c is now the recommended heated bed temperature. Some people say 100c for first layer then drby chngyian - Printing
Yup, a duct to prevent to cold air from coming in contact with your heated bed would definitely help with the warping. I used to "tape" a duct with kapton because I was too lazy. Heh.by chngyian - Printing
Could it be because of the position of the printed part on the platform? It's kinda hard to explain without pictures, but if the belt is not straight the printer might have difficulties being precise at certain position. One way to test it out would be to position the printed part in the direction where it prints better.by chngyian - Printing
Sounds like the slicer could be acting up. Try using another slicer, probably Kisslicer or Cura.by chngyian - Printing
I use to have this problem when I was printing in the living room. Did some googling and decided to take some actions, after which the problem when away. - moved the printer to my room where there is less interference - upgrade to a higher quality usb cable with ferrite choke - print from sd card instead No longer face the problem but at the same time can't tell which was the critical factor inby chngyian - Printing
QuoteLawrence78 Hi Guys, I am always having very frequent failed prints from my Portabee. The printable size is 30cm x 30cm x 30cm. The item i am printing is usually much smaller and it tends to stop halfway. I suspect the noozle keeps getting choked after a few hours. I have been wasting spools of filament and time on just trying to print a few items. Anyone else has this issue too? How do uby chngyian - Singapore RUG
Wow, spent one hour figuring out that I have to name the uploaded file as "xxx.gcd" instead of "xxx.GCD". Or else there would be an error "No firmware response detected for sd action." and the print would start immediately. Posting this just in case anybody out there facing the same problem.by chngyian - General
Quotejaeg I'm still messing around with this. I've tightened the belts further but so far haven't had much luck. EDIT: Would a XY Jerk setting of 10 cause this? I'm wild guessing that there is more material deposited at the corners that caused the sides to look bowed in. Have you tried measuring the corners or the sides? You can try other slicer too and see if the problem goes away.by chngyian - Printing
the material could be the issue. have you tried using the same material and comparing the quality?by chngyian - Printing
your print looks really weird. I don't see the layers at all. have you tried calibrating the extruder?by chngyian - Printing
Thanks for all the response, I've found the solution. Both 64mb t-flash and 4gb micro-sd from sandisk are working, just that they are not in the proper extension. .GCD seems to work for me.by chngyian - General
You can take a look at Kraken from e3d if you're feeling adventurous.by chngyian - General
It really depends on your motivation to get a 3d printer. If you're looking for quality prints and reliability with minimum effort > get a all assembled machine from one of the reputable manufacturers like ultimaker or makerbot. If you're looking to tinker around and build a printer as a hobby and learning in the process > get an average reprap machines from one of the sellers near you. Tby chngyian - General
Yeah, check the wiring. Did something come loose?by chngyian - RAMPS Electronics
I can't get mine to go all the way in as well, but it works fine.by chngyian - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteEric64124 Hi all, I recently upgraded my i3 printer to an E3D v5 all metal hot end. Since then I have problems with the first layer warping and detaching at the corners from the bed on larger objects. I have a hunge that this is caused by the air flow from the cooling fan of the hot end blowing over my hot bed. I am printing abs at 240 degrees, 110 degrees hot bed. Has anybody got similaby chngyian - Reprappers
I run a old netbook (ASUS EEEPC) to control my prusa i3. Some of the awesome reasons why I do that: - Save the cost of additional boards - Much quicker and easier control (able to type commands and click to manual move) - Webcam allows me to monitor the progress from my desk - Teamviewer allows me to remote access 2 main problems that I've encountered: - vibration of machine might affect the USby chngyian - General
Short and non scientific article on abs fumes Not endorsing or anything, but might be interesting for those who are concerned. Personally, I built a simple exhaust to get the abs fumes (I print almost primarily in ABS) as the smell really get on my nerves.by chngyian - General
QuoteA2 Isn't there a 2 gig limit for RAMPS to work correctly? I read that somewhere too, but my 64mb sandisk t-flash is acting the same way. I'll try to lay my hands on a 2gb micro-sd ASAP. Just want to be sure that I didn't make any mistakes in the setting up and procedures.by chngyian - General
Quotejamesdanielv have you mounted the files, or completely turned off printer and reset, so it can read the card at start up and initialize? Hey James, Thanks for the reply. What I did was send M21 to mount the card, is that what you are referring to? It would be good if you can describe the steps as I am unable to find any tutorial on sdramps online.by chngyian - General
Hey guys, here is my problem. Would appreciate any form of help. The sdramps that I ordered recently arrived and I'm having difficulty transferring and reading files to my micro-sd card. 1) Plug in SD card 2) Launch Repetier-host 3) Send M21 to printer, received ok as echo. 4) Open the SD tab and choose to transfer gcode file to SD. 5) Transfer rate is slow but process can be completed. 6) Sendby chngyian - General
you could take a look at Makibox I guess, they're pretty new in terms of shipping date.by chngyian - General
What speed did you try to move the motors?by chngyian - General Mendel Topics
QuoteGaodesign Try to print more tan one piece. Try with 2 or 4. It is a temperature problem with your layers. They can not be cool when the next starts. So give time to be cool, while the extruder gones to the other piece. yup, second this. you could slow down the print speed but printing more than one would give better results.by chngyian - Reprappers
wow, I don't think you are suppose to turn the trimpots by that much. they are not suppose to turn more than 360 degrees, you may have already killed it. in any case, try turning down speed. it might be too fast for the motors to react.by chngyian - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
If they're not warm at all then it might be due to underpower, try turning the trimpots up by around 1/8 turn.by chngyian - Repetier
For ordinary chrome-plated rods, you can try misumi or igus. If you're feeling experimental and adventurous, try igus' polymer bearings with their aluminum rods. There is much lower wear but not too sure how well it works in reality.by chngyian - General