No, or at least I have to say that not by me. But I suspect exactly that: the printer works perfect with Marlin (besides a problem with a sd card I could not solve and that is why I went back to repetier). When useing Marling: no problem with homeing, no strage noises, nothing wrong. But with repetier there is that problem. SI I suspect that Marling changed something that i not restored with theby Tinchus - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, I slowd down the speed and reduced acceleration, that eliminated this effect like in 90%. There is sitill some really minor efect, but Im sure it is caused but the springs holding the bed: in a change of direction, while gently touchen the bed, I can feel a very small vibration. When I hve some time I will look for stronger springs o think about how to eliminate them o improve the bed levelby Tinchus - Printing
You have to check you initial bed leveling and 0 Z starting point. Probably you Z 0 point at the start is too high. Despite that, you are way too high regarding temperatures.by Tinchus - General Mendel Topics
Hi. Im haveing a very strange issue: My Z axis motors started to make a strange sound, but only when homeing. I can move the Z axis up and down without any issues. But when I hit the Z home buttom, both motors make a horrible sound, and they even get "blocked"/stucked. I though that something bent, like the threaded rods, but I checked them, then to be sure I removed them. And they are ok. Withouby Tinchus - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi. Printer: Prusa I 3, arduino 2560, ramps 1.4 I was useing till now repetier 0.9. All fine, I then decided to try Marlin, since most of tutorials , tunning tips talks about it. So I downloaded and configured Marlin, compiled it and loaded to the printer. It was on after some tunning, but it was imposible to make it print from the SD, something important to me becuse I eed my laptop jajajajaja Sby Tinchus - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I recognize that objet. It is meant to be used for extrusion calibration and it is the objetct I use for calibration o new filament rolls. My noozle is 0.4 and I never had a problem neither with cura or slicer Have you checked that you noozle size if ok in the cura configuration? For calibration purposes I prefer ti use slicer. But if you still want to use cura, make sure that under expert settiby Tinchus - General
Try lowering the themperature. I dont see a fan cooling the heatsink there, but could be on the side... Anyway, 215 degrees might be too much for your extruder, even if you have a cooler, the heatbreak at that temperature could be warm enough to make PLA soften and temporarly clog the heatbrak, causing extrusion to tstop.by Tinchus - Printing
I would have really liked your theory to be right. But it is not: I have coencted the USB, Im useing pronterface and repetier host. I tried all combinations (always connected to usb and to the host): starting the print from the LCD = reseting and no printing started. Selecting the file , from the host, in the card and givind the command to start the printing from the SD card = restarting And, havby Tinchus - Firmware - Marlin
I didnt check but, I can erfectly print from the USB useing repetier firmware, so the board is wrking goodby Tinchus - Firmware - Marlin
Look at the picture. I have set all my extrusion width manually, to 0.6 and 0.68. I was printing this model, and it failed 5 times, always at the same height. So I stayed looking the print, and I noticed that when the model reached somewhere arounf 5mm tall, there were a small area being printed with a crazy amiunt of extrusion, and of course this made a "mountain" of melted plastic wich a layerby Tinchus - Slic3r
Why dont you just intall repetier firmware or Marlin, the latest version of both of tehm has the filament change option, and it shows in the LCD screen .by Tinchus - Slic3r
Hi. I decided to try Marling (I have been useing repetier) since I all the time read about marlin. I downloaded the latest stable version (I think, the one at github), connfigure all needed parameter and compiled it without problems Printer: Prusa I3, with a smart reprap lcd controller I can move axis, home them, heat bed, hotend, etc. All seems ok Right now Im trying to make my first print withby Tinchus - Firmware - Marlin
Im also interested... what is the lectronic part???? the post in thingiverse explains nothing.... Can soeone provide instructions and how and why this electronics would solve the rippling effect?by Tinchus - General
Hi. I was useing repetier firmware, but since Marlin firmware loks like haveing some aditional features I decided to try it. I have a question I culd not find over google. All tutorials, when explaining the board setup in the firmware speaks about chooseing as option33for the board if you have a ramps 1.3/1.4 board (I have ramps 1.4, and arduino 2560). But the latest version of Marling I got, defby Tinchus - General
Sounds what I have been looking for: I have a particular material, is a type of PET, made from recicle pet bottles. It ahs very nice features, but a "disadvantage, because it behaves like both PLA and ABS: it melts around 240/250 degrees, but starts to soften around 80/90. This low soften temperature makes really dificult to use it in an all metal hotend. The trick so ffar has been printing it aby Tinchus - Printing
Hi, a couple of questios: 1, why volumetric extrusion is better for naylon? 2, in slic3r, lets say I want to print useing volumetric extrusion, useing repetier firmware, I set extrusion with mnaully (I want to do it), set speed to auto speeds and then slic3r will try to generate a steady (or somehow steady) speed along all the print?by Tinchus - Printing
Does anybody knows the density of laywood? Impsibe to find it in google....by Tinchus - Printing
OH!!!! you are so right... I forgot that detail.... Thanks!!!!by Tinchus - Slic3r
If you are looking for a strong solid piece, putting more botton/top layers would not be the correct way. Put like 10 perimeters (this is actually more than necesary), and then use 100% infil (again, 100% is not necesary, you are just wasting plastic, use 70%/60% are it is more than enough, specially is you use the honey comb design) This is what I mean:by Tinchus - Slic3r
You design units are wrong. Slic3r uses mm. I can tell just seeing the plate squeme, that the object is reaaaaallly small, may be like 1 or 2 mm!!!! change your units or change the object scale in slic3rby Tinchus - Slic3r
It is just more easy an accurate to do this: export your gcode as always, an load it into repetier host. It will give you and estimate. It is usually inside 10/20% accurate.by Tinchus - Slic3r
Hi. I have been useing slic3r for ssome time but this issue just came out now that Im useing a particularly problematic material. The problem with this filament is that has a high melting temperature (245/250) but it starts to soften like at 70/80 degrees. Anyway, I managed to worked with it, but I need to have the filament moveing fast... and one of the strategies I use is to extrude as much asby Tinchus - Slic3r
Guys... of course the machine HAVE to be off when working on it....by Tinchus - General
Ok... but, at this point may be my explanation is wrong, whatever... but tightening the belt in this way solved my problem, and my problem was exactly the same as the one posted here. I had adjusted, re adjusted DOZENS of times in the past. I have assembled and re assembled Y and X axis like 10 times. I have changed the belt 3 times. I have changed pullyes, I have used oild, grease, nothing for lby Tinchus - General
Yes, and in my case that is another yes. I dont know how to explain it.... somehow the idler does not distribute the tension evenly. May be it does and the part of the belt around the pulley doesnt received tension... I dont know. What I can tell for sure, and I measured it, is that if you just tighten the belt without unscrewing the pulley's screws, one part of the belt is a little more tight thby Tinchus - General
I wanted to update this post because: your circles, lookes exactly as mines. And I finally found the source; Seeing a video, not related to this issue, I saw the way that person adjusted the belts and I noticed something: he unscrew the screws of the pulleys before adjusting the belts... And I re adjusted my belts again unscrewing those screws, adjust the belt and srewing the screws of the pulleyby Tinchus - General
I bet the problem is speed/acceleration... I reduced speed by 5mm/s and the waves improved quit nicely... Also, could this be related to too much temperature? if the filament extruded is too much liquid could be more affected by vibrations o acceleration? The springs on my bed are something I wanted to change from some time. Do you know other kind of bed supports/systems? I really dont like thisby Tinchus - Printing
I can tell you for sure that your nozle is not being lifted. Also, interior diameter is around 2mm actually, so you are aok there. Your problem, and Im really trying no to use "for sure", is temperature. You are not preinting fast but also not slow. 40mm/s is quit fast under some circunstances. Your thermistor could be giving you a bar reading, OR sometime the temperature reading is ok... but itby Tinchus - Printing
FIally I solved my back pressure problem and Im able to print with PET and an all metal hot end But I have this issue: there is some kind of waves in the print, but mainly in one of the faces (I printed a box), in the other faces there is almost no trace of these waves. In the pictures you will see waves in the surface, specially where there is those kind of circles. The printing direction waby Tinchus - Printing
Hola a todos! Consulta. Han estado usando el B-Pet? si es asi me gustaria escuchar con que hotend lo estan imprimiendo, velocidad, noozle, temperaturas. Me esta haciendo renegar bastante, se me bolquea el hotend , al parecer es bastante delicado con el tema del calor en el heatbreak, pero a 250 grados que es lo que recomiendan, no encontre la forma de hacer que el heatbreak no levante algo de teby Tinchus - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina