Hi, I have a Budaschnozzle and am printing 3mm ABS with a 0.4mm nozzle. The heat-barrier above the hotend is cooled by a directional 40mm fan and this works great for keeping the hot air away from the extruder. When I print high things with a small diameter, I notice that the ABS stays hot because the hotend is radiating heat onto the printed material. I would like to attempt to insulate the heby Ohmarinus - Printing
Hi guys, I found a video on the web about replacing the Budaschnozzle nozzle, they say it has to be done when the hotend is cold, but the thing that happens to me is that when I unscrew the nozzle with a tool, the whole threaded tube that the nozzle is connected to, comes with it, so it is unscrewing with it. Should I heat it up and try to unscrew it when it is hot? I'm afraid to experiment, thby Ohmarinus - General
Nice, but not for me, I use 12v and these motors seem to run on 24v? Why would you use these motors? Are they cheaper? Or better? - Marinusby Ohmarinus - General
Btw, something being suspended in mid air is indeed not a problem when you split up the parts. It's not possible to just generate support material?by Ohmarinus - General
It's thinking backwards to do this only in one country. The replies like "The US is the proper place for this contest" and "One country == nobody to fight == peace" are also a bit backward. This whole reprap idea is about no borders, no differences... I'm sorry, great initiative, but the only in US is WRONG.by Ohmarinus - General
Haha, okok, ja, je hebt gelijk, ik wist trouwens niet dat het chinese arduino's waren.. Ik weet wel dat die man de Sanguino's zelf in elkaar zet en dat de stepsticks die ik heb gekocht bij hem de witte variant zijn (dat is dus de goedkope chinese), en dat las ik achteraf, en al geeft het me geen problemen met de machine, zit het me toch niet helemaal lekker. Ik vind het zelf ook wel leuk om in hby Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
I have made a topic for this, but nobody really adds anything to it.. It can be found here:by Ohmarinus - General
Don't worry too much Chris, once you got it up and running she'll love itby Ohmarinus - General
US only.. also my complaintby Ohmarinus - General
One more thing to add to the already good reply of droftarts, filament isn't always exactly 3mm, so making it exactly 3mm's will probably cause jams a lot. Unless you have 100% absolutely insurance that the filament you're using is consistent in diameter. My filaments usually go from 2.92 to 3.07 and I've had extreme cases of 3.25 to 3.50 in older filaments I used, but I think that was a freak acby Ohmarinus - General
Well, my boyfriend... (ok just kidding), no I don't have a girlfriend yet (about time though... being 29 and all) BUT all the girls I meet going out and at my academy totally think it's awesome I built my own machine and print all this stuff with it. Maybe it's just not something she's into? However, theres a few things that come to mind, and I don't mean this in a childish way, but I have a frby Ohmarinus - General
Hihi, inmiddels al een paar PM's gekregen met vragen welke verkoper het dan was, iedereen die het me heeft gevraagd had het in 1 keer goed Ben ik misschien toch niet zo goed in het bespeuren van kwaliteit op het internet dan ik dacht.. Hoedanook, de machine draait nog steeds erg lekker, ik heb van bijna alle prints de laatste tijd een foto gemaakt met mijn DSLR en ga ergens een album maken waaby Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
It looks like you need to calibrate your steps/mm on all axes. X- and Y look 'ok' but your E-steps might be off, and your Z. After that is done, measure your filament with a caliper and set the correct filament width in Slic3r. The optimum layer height for your 0.4mm nozzle should be 80% of that so: 0.32mm but I suggest printing on 0.325 since I myself had the best result on 0.325 layer heightby Ohmarinus - Printing
Still no pictures or video... martybee58 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > WOW!! It works a treat!! I just did a test print > with some that I bought from RS components and it > came out just as good as my PLA prints. > > I printed it on my Mendel90 straight onto the > glass (cleaned with vinegar first) > > Slic3r > 0.3mm layer heightby Ohmarinus - General
Can it be your filament has variable width? And do you think your filament settings are correct? I had the same with filament that wasn't a nice constant thickness..by Ohmarinus - General
I think Flashmanblack is a bot, the links in the signature are all normal, but the last one is a shop. They are keywords that are looked for a lot in google and all the comments are gibberish. Admins, fix this account! Ban it or something, at least see if it is a real user?by Ohmarinus - Printing
Hi, so theres not a channel for this, but I was wondering if anyone has experience with this. I have found an amplifier two days ago, outside in the trash. And it works! However, it has noise when you turn on the knobs. It's this amplifier: And as a sound-o-phile I would really like to restore this beauty to a good working state. Now, I know there are things like contact spray, but I have reby Ohmarinus - Experimental and Hobby
Oh, and these feet can also help yes, but I think this topic is mostly about upgrading electronics:by Ohmarinus - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
There are parts like this one: They can help users using the Buda without problems. But I thought it was better to just create a whole new extruder through altering the OpenSCAD files on the extruder I linked before. You can also use the Buda without using that part by the way, no problem, just make sure you are cooling the top of the hotend, otherwise the heat will travel up to the extruder aby Ohmarinus - General
Missing steps can happen from not enough current like lazzymonk says. I'm absolutely sure this is not a problem in a file nor in the software. It is either mechanically not rolling smooth enough, or not having enough current. It might also be that the stepper drivers are overheating sometimes. Have you mounted heatsinks on the stepper drivers and do you have a cooling fan blowing on the stepperby Ohmarinus - General
I am having no trouble with the heating, the current version I'm using heats up faster than any other heatbed I've used. But, I'm using a Budaschnozzle with a ceramic heater cartridge, so that heats up like turbo compared to the resistor-based heaters I used before. Because the hotend reaches target temperature, I think (*I don't know for sure) that there is a bit more current when the hotend stby Ohmarinus - Printing
Yes, it's perfectly usable, I like the hotend very much, I have had three hotends now, and the Buda is by far the nicest one I had. Start with the 0.5 nozzle, and look at the pictures on the web to see how to connect it. The only thing may be that you need to print a new extruder that fits the Buda. What I did was download this one: and change in the OpenSCAD file the opening on the bottom. Iby Ohmarinus - General
Here's three pictures of how the heatbed is put together. I hope it's clear.by Ohmarinus - Printing
Here it is:by Ohmarinus - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Also bought that kit, just remember postage cost, I live in Holland and I had to pay a 20 euro extra import fee to customs. The kit is very nice, I bought it two weeks ago. The hotend was in use immediately, and I made a nice hotend cooling fan out of the fan and cable supplied with it. The hotend needs active cooling on the top part otherwise the heat travels up too much. Haven't used the rampby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Beautiful site! Thanks. - Marinus marcosscriven Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > May I humbly ask if you might try out my site > Jasper? > > The URL is > > You might also find this interesting > > > At the moment you can only add models from a > GitHub repo - but I'm right now in the process of > adding the ability to add mby Ohmarinus - General
It needs to be in one piece to work optimal. So indeed like nophead says, casted would be better.by Ohmarinus - General
Hey guys, I want to start a central topic in where we can place suggestions where to find certain vitamins for our reprap machines. I have started asking people around me if they have old printers/scanners/computers that are keps in their basement because they don't take time to throw it away. For now I have found in different machines: Scanners: - Chromed smooth rods 1x or 2x, with varying thby Ohmarinus - General
Hi, I have found one other site, but it doesn't have much on it and doesn't get much updates also.. It can be found here: Groetjes!by Ohmarinus - General
Exactly what I wanted to write yesterday, but didn't. Try to use a more directional light, or make some kind of box with an adjustable 'light nozzle' which then is focused on the area? And try to exclude all other variables like filament width variation. I had the same looking prints with filament that didn't have a constant width. Really curious how you go on with this. But for me, personally,by Ohmarinus - General