dc42, any update on this; I know you're quite busy but I'm just wondering thanks!by shadow651 - Duet
Your best bet is probably to download KiCAD which is the PCB editor the duet was designed on (free and open source) And then download the design files for the 0.65 from T3P3's GitHub here I used this while doing some work adding extra steppers to get more colors with a single nozzle, and it was very helpful.by shadow651 - Duet
Quotedc42 Quoteshadow651 Quotedc42 I think we need to add a new gcode to define the resume point for that to be possible. I'll give it some thought. In that case it might be good to have something along the lines of 'save current coordinates' , 'goto saved coordinates' and 'goto saved coordinates with delta modifiers' We already have "goto saved coordinates with delta modifiers", that what G1 wby shadow651 - Duet
Quotedc42 I think we need to add a new gcode to define the resume point for that to be possible. I'll give it some thought. In that case it might be good to have something along the lines of 'save current coordinates' , 'goto saved coordinates' and 'goto saved coordinates with delta modifiers'by shadow651 - Duet
I've been working on getting this filament merger working on a Ormerod 2 with Duet 0.6 + DueX4 0.2a I'm running DC42's firmware, but an older version (I'm thinking 1.09K) - I haven't updated in awhile because I wanted to make sure anything that wasn't working was because of my modifications and not a firmware change. and I've been a bit short on time lately. So far things are going well, but Iby shadow651 - Duet
QuoteDADIY Quoteshadow651 Has anyone ever tried this multicolor filament merger that Adrian posted to the O2 GitHub a couple of years ago? At this point I'm thinking this might be an easier solution for multi-color upgrades. You would only need to get a DueX4 (depending on your duet version), bowden tubing, and the bowden brass unions. The only real question would be where to get more brassby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Hi all, but what about the Exruder? Don't forget this one. The hobbed insert is hard to get and when you get it the price is high. Somebody should recreate another one, based on common tiles, preferably the MK8 gear for example. And it is not because I got some here I choosed them as it seems that these are the best choice for transporting filament. Best regards, Sven I agree thaby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotetig124 Quoteshadow651 QuoteDavek0974 Quoteorictosh QuoteDavek0974 As a busines owner, I know there are many reasons for the sudden closure of a company, none of which I would like to post here as they are not good reasons. Almost every case of closure there is time to make an announcement, time to try and take every penny by selling off stock, time for employees to look for other work, manyby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDADIY Quoteshadow651 Has anyone ever tried this multicolor filament merger that Adrian posted to the O2 GitHub a couple of years ago? At this point I'm thinking this might be an easier solution for multi-color upgrades. You would only need to get a DueX4 (depending on your duet version), bowden tubing, and the bowden brass unions. The only real question would be where to get more brassby shadow651 - Ormerod
Has anyone ever tried this multicolor filament merger that Adrian posted to the O2 GitHub a couple of years ago? At this point I'm thinking this might be an easier solution for multi-color upgrades. You would only need to get a DueX4 (depending on your duet version), bowden tubing, and the bowden brass unions. The only real question would be where to get more brass union pieces?by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteMitch For Christmas a relative of mine got an Ormerod 2 from Replikeo. It has the Quick-set hotend. The hotend parts looked great. The only thing that seemed a bit battered/dogy was the metal clamping block that holds the nozzles to the printer. Nonetheless it functioned fine. The original ormerod 2's from Replikeo used the standard nozzles but they have since changed to the quick-set hotenby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh Quotetrevmas It was always in my plan to upgrade to two colour printing at some stage so an option now might be a Duet 0.8.5 and something like an e3d Chimera.{/quote] What would be useful is if Reprappro could provide a list of suppliers for individual parts as they are no longer in the game. Yes, trying to source the machined quick set nozzle has been hard, so knowing where itby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Quoteorictosh QuoteDavek0974 As a busines owner, I know there are many reasons for the sudden closure of a company, none of which I would like to post here as they are not good reasons. Almost every case of closure there is time to make an announcement, time to try and take every penny by selling off stock, time for employees to look for other work, many many opportunities that soby shadow651 - Ormerod
Very sad to hear about this. Getting spare nozzles and such is going to be very difficult - although the switch to quick set nozzles had already made that a problem for most of us. Hopefully someone will at least have these parts for sale..... but the PDF schematics for them are on github. I feel like this has come out of nowhere, it seemed like RRP was doing fine, they introduced a new printerby shadow651 - Ormerod
Looks very nice, would like a DL link!by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteredblunt no not again well i guess ill give a try for an old cpu cooler ill the spareparts reach me i suppose you cant cool too much ?! @dmould i tought of an thermic segregation by using different materials id propably make another mess - so thats off the table thanks you guys helped me learn - again For the hotend cooling block, there is no such thing as overcooling.... but thereby shadow651 - Ormerod
Replacing the nozzle if you have the older one-piece nozzles isn't really an option anymore.... RRP has stopped ordering the one-piece nozzles, although it looks like the 0.3mm ones are still in stock. The PDF schematics for the nozzles are available in a previous branch of Github, if you knew a shop that could make them you could give them this file. Or you can get a kit to upgrade to the quick-by shadow651 - Ormerod
Welcome to the forums, you've come the right place As far as I know, I got the same cable as pictured when I built mine, just a 2x3 connector I think. Although I got my kit back in february, so maybe they've changed something.... It might be helpful if you could post a picture of the cable you got. It'll eliminate a lot of questions people are going to ask you. It's always possible RRP sent yby shadow651 - Ormerod
I think that attaching a picture in-line only works on some browsers or something, I know it's been discussed before and we can't seem to get it to work for everyone.... The reason that spacer might not fit as well might be because there are two versions of it floating around. And thus also a couple versions of the fan duct, I know this caused some confusion when we tried to print the duct, it wby shadow651 - Ormerod
I'm for sure going to get windows 10 pro and not home. Pro and above still has the ability to deny updates (I think), but home forces auto updates and force installs security updates regardless of what you might be doing. I don't know, I have mixed feelings about 10, in some ways it's fixed a lot of issues I had with 8 & 8.1 but I think I'll wait a bit to try it out... and I'll probably onby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotewhitebluff Woo, this is indeed what i need. thank you so much! Let us know if that printed version works as well as the original. If too many of us wind up breaking ours, it would be good to know..... now I'm going to be all nervous about breaking mine lolby shadow651 - Ormerod
Because it's laser cut acrylic I don't think there will be an STL, you might be able to find a 2D sketch in whatever format laser cutters use.... or a PDF schematic. You could then 'extrude' the 2D format to the thickness of the acrylic part.... this will probably not work as well as the original part, but you never know till you try Alternatively, you could change to the old printed parts thatby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteRedMD I too am interested in a variable speed controlled cooling fan. I connected a SunOn 40x40x20 fan directly to the fan0 terminals and was able to get on-off control. I'm guessing zombiepantslol connected his SunOn fan using the MOSFET (2N7000) for variable speed control. Is this correct? If not, is there another way to achieve variable speed without adding the extra components (otherby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotebitfield Also, I have a piece of white paper below the glass bed. An attempt for better Z homing way back. Can I safely remove that since I'm using your IR sensor? Maybe it's causing issues? DC42's sensor can have problems if you have white paper under it or a reflective glass bed (i.e. A mirror), even the shiny aluminum heat spreader can cause issues This is from DC42's blog about the minby shadow651 - Ormerod
RRP support can take a while to get back to you, it all depends on how busy they are, and if anyone's on vacation or at a 3D printing festival. I once had support take over a week to get back to me, but sometimes I've also had them get back by the next day. The duet should be able to use a UHS-1 card, it's just a faster read/write speed than class 10.by shadow651 - Ormerod
Just wondering if anyones messed around with the newest slicer's 'Max Volumetric Speed' setting. If so, what numbers are people using with success and/or failure? I'm using the original one-piece nozzle system, I'd imagine that the quick-set nozzles might have a different Volumetric speed.... but who knows I'm interested in seeing if the concept of 'constant volume' extrusion gives better printby shadow651 - Ormerod
ReprapPro has a list here with a few other tips. You might have trouble getting the heated bed upto a temperature that will work with ABS, but there are solutions such as insulating the bed while preheating. or increasing the supplied voltage from 12v to something higher, but you'd need to add some diodes to the 12v fans to prevent damaging them.by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteSpringfield-Jack The catch--the little black thing in the diagram-- is at the front and the wires should be inserted from the back(where is the "embarrassed" smiley?). The Ormerod 2 has a similar diagram in it's instructions. I also had a bit of an issue with it, took me a minute to figure out why the crimp pins weren't latching to the housing.....by shadow651 - Fisher
Quotedougal1957 Quotedmould The first 3 numbers in the IP address (i.e. 192, 168 and 1) must be the same as the IP address of your PC. The net "192.168.1" is a common subnet for home networks, but there are other common addresses also (in particular "192.168.0") and your network may require a different first 3 digits. To find the IP address of your PC (and hence the correct first 3 numbers) youby shadow651 - Ormerod
The newer Ormerod 2 has a different improved version of the heatbed connections. You might be able to have RRP give you the newer bed under warranty... I know quite a few people have had the older connection style you have start on fire and or melt the heaterr pcb at the connectionsby shadow651 - Ormerod