My MK8 didn't come from China with any type of insulation at all. (Cheap I3 off the Bay but heck it works) It has worked fine using PLA for almost a year now.by Jezmo - Printing
I see some very good suggestions for you and about the only thing I haven't noticed mentioned was XY Jerk in the firmware. I had to lower mine to 10 in order to stop Y drift. Hope you get it figured out.by Jezmo - General
This is what is on my I3 and works good. I've been using it for about 6 months.by Jezmo - Reprappers
Added a Picture of a print from my cheap acrylic from the Bay. This is a link to my printer with one exception, mine has the Z-Steppers with the solid shaft lead screws, no coupler required, Straight as an arrow.Cheap Acrylic I3 from the Bay This is the same guy I got mine from, not sure why they quit using the steppers with the lead screws made to the shaft. Maybe too expensive.by Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks good man. I bought a cheap I3 from the Bay and got very lucky with the seller. Everything was packed nicely, the SD card had a video showing one being but together and after much reading on this forum my first print turned out just a nice as the one you uploaded. The seller sent me a copy of the firmware that was loaded from the factory and I started making small changes and now it prints aby Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee How can I get this to work with Windows 8? It will not recognize it no matter what I try. To install unsigned drivers in Windows 8, you have to disable driver signing enforcement. Here is a link showing how with pictures. Disable Driver Signing Enforcementby Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not the best expert by any stretch but it certainly looks like the nozzle is too far from the bed for the first layer as Kurzaa mentions above. It should be set so a piece of paper has drag on it when you try to pull it from between the nozzle and bed. Once set at this height and the bed is level with consistent drag at all four corners it should squish the first layer onto the bed for good aby Jezmo - Printing
Got my attention as well. It would be nice to know which brand so we can stay away.by Jezmo - Printing
Mine was doing that when I first started out. On the advice of others I began lowering my XY Jerk value in Configuration.h and after going from 20 all the way down to 10 it finally stopped (after many many prints it's never done that again). I also lowered the acceleration rate from 3000 to 2000 and the printer just sounds much better than when I first got it up and running. It is one of the cheaby Jezmo - General
I don't have the Sunhokey but rather one of the other EBay Acrylic Frame specials that look just like the Sunhokey. Mine has the MKS Base V1.1 controller and as mentioned above lacked in the instructions department but otherwise isn't bad at all for the money. I did find a video showing the assembly in pretty good detail. It has worked flawless for about 9 months now and the only issue I had to fby Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I had to change the XY jerk setting in my Configuration.h from 20 down to 10 on my I3 to stop that from happening. I eventually also lowered the acceleration from 3000 to 2000 although not because of the mentioned problem. The two changes made my printer run much smoother and I haven't had a single incident since then of an offset on the y axis. I found the XY jerk change suggestion on one of theby Jezmo - Printing
Over the years (I fly RC aircraft as well as my 3D printing hobby) I've bought Chinese junk, Japanese junk, American junk and many others. The one main difference I've found between the more expensive products and the cheaper "junk" is the quality of the customer service. Yes, some of the cheap knockoffs aren't worth the money even at the reduced price but some of it was actually quite good. Someby Jezmo - General
I don't hit the boards daily but felt I might offer a suggestion to get you some help. First you might show exactly what printer you obtained so people can see the configuration of it (A link to it would be helpful). There are different types of extruders etc and in order to help you they will need to know details about your exact printer.by Jezmo - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'll try to offer a few ideas. First the garbled screen is usually due to long cables from the MKS to the LCD getting too close to some other cable or other source of magnetic interference. The information traveling down those tiny wires is in the form of ones and zeroes and the current level is very weak so any inductance along the cable run will destroy the data. Even static discharge from yourby Jezmo - Firmware - mainstream and related support
My printer is an acrylic I3 from China. The Y bed is cut from Acrylic and only has one linear bearing on the right side instead of two like the left side. I can literally watch the bed oscillate on the edge when it rapidly changes direction. I made some reinforcments for the bed to make it stiffer and while that helped it didn't stop it. I can still see some oscillation so I need figure out someby Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm running an I5 based PC and it takes a while to compile the code before it starts the uploading process. I haven't actually timed it but mine seems to take between 3 to 5 minutes to compile and upload.by Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I forgot to add there is a section in the Configuration.h tab that controls the LCD screen. It has to be set correctly for the type of screen you have in order for it to work. When the firmware is changed to a generic version the LCD settings as well as the settings for the steppers won't be right. You have to set the motherboard type, thermister type, LCD type, stepper settings and much much morby Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I suggest you study up on Marlin Firmware settings. There are many settings and it would be beyond the scope of this thread to try and expain what all of the settings do. I was somewhat intimidated when I first started off (about 6 months ago). I started using Google (insert your fav search engine here) and searched for information on Marlin settings. I also sent an email to the original seller oby Jezmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Floyd is doing the same as myself. I level with a dial indicator and agree there is no substitute for a properly set up printer. Just my two cents.by Jezmo - General
I bought this printer for my first 3D Printer from this seller. Prusa I3 Printer The printer arrived well packed and with all parts. When I started modding it, I sent him an email asking about getting a copy of the original firmware and had the file in my inbox in less than 24 hours. Very good service and he answered all my questions quickly. I have bought other upgrade parts from him since andby Jezmo - General
MatterControl is another option as well as Repetier-Host. Yes, you can print just fine without the LCD. The LCD/Smart Card concept is so you don't have to leave your computer on for very long prints, like maybe something lasting up to 25 or 30+ hours.by Jezmo - General
I have been using one of these on a generic RepRap I3 from China for about 6 months now and haven't had a single issue with it. I am currently running Marlin firmware on it and the prints are very nice, as good as anything I have seen in pictures. There may be better solutions out there but it's hard to beat the price.by Jezmo - Controllers