Show all posts by user
General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Fire Hazard - 9 years ago
I agree! That's why this thread is really a good thing. It has already been read 742 times!by fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Fire Hazard - 9 years ago
Yes, as soon as insurance companies are in the loop, things become very complicated... But it all depends what you sell: if you only sell different parts, I don't think you can be blamed. If you sell a complete kit, it can be more tricky. If it is a ready-to-use machine, no doubt that your responsability is engaged!by fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Fire Hazard - 9 years ago
QuoteDeuxVis One way to avoid the thermistor to detach from the hotend is to wrap the heating block - including thermistor and heating resistor - with a few turns of "self fusing" silicone heat resistant tape : +1! QuoteAdded benefit for both solutions is to lower heat waste through air blowing on the heating block, and diminish radiation transmission of heat to the part being printed. ...whicby fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Fire Hazard - 9 years ago
QuoteGonetotx This discussion about heater spec is really good info for me. I'm using a 12 volt power supply for the hot end and a 24 volt supply for the hotbed. I have no idea what the spec is for my extruder heater. Will a 20 watt heater be enough for the ABS? What is the difference between the 20 watt and the 3 watt flame proof 6.8 ohm resister? By calculation, I would have to tune down the vby fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: cutting - 9 years ago
@Rooski, How do you export to gcode from Inkscape? Thanks,by fma - General
Re: Runnin Slic3r with perl 5.18 - 9 years ago
I'm unable to start Slic3r at all... 00:12:35.358 : Perl API version v5.14.0 of Boost::Geometry::Utils does not match v5.18.0 at /usr/share/perl/5.18/XSLoader.pm line 92. 00:12:35.358 : Compilation failed in require at /opt/RepetierHost-0.90d/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32. 00:12:35.358 : BEGIN failed--compilation aborted at /opt/RepetierHost-0.90d/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32. 00:12:35.358 :by fma - Slic3r
Re: Runnin Slic3r with perl 5.18 - 9 years ago
Don't remember the errors, but there is a message (or maybe it is in the sources), saying that Slic3r should be run with Perl < 5.16... So, this is a known problem...by fma - Slic3r
Re: Serial com. - 10 years ago
That's a nice code! Easy to customize... I love that I'll let you know whow it works... Thanks for your answer!by fma - Repetier
Serial com. - 10 years ago
I have a lot of problems with USB com with my Azteeg X3 running Repetier firmware. The X3 has a serial port connector I would like to use to connect to a real RS232 port on my computer (using a TTL converter). I don't know yet if this serial port is wired to the same ATMega serial port as internal FTDI... If it is not the case, is there a way to use another serial port in the firmware? Can you pby fma - Repetier
Runnin Slic3r with perl 5.18 - 10 years ago
Hi! I can't run anymore Slic3r on my debian sid, as 5.18 is now the current version of perl. It seems that some warnings in previous versions are now fatal in this version... Is there something (simple) I can do, as a non perl developper, to get it work? If not, any idea when a release compatible with perl 5.18 will be available? Thanks,by fma - Slic3r
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
fma Wrote: > @mondo50m, as said, frosted glass is made with a > chemical proces, and I think it won't be deep > enough. But I plan to give it a try, as soon as I > find some. Juste tried frosted glass: it works too!!! Maybe not as well as Kapton/PET taped-bed, especially with very tall parts, but for simple parts, it is far enough. As said, I don't even use raft/brim.by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
Ok, I will give it a try, if it is not too expensive...by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
lotw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > [...] > I do think it is funny at people are building > bigger and bigger repraps without addressing the > bed sticking issue. Only gets worse the larger > you go. I agree. I tend to print only 1 part at a time, to avoid wasting ABS when something goes wrong. I only print several parts when they are too small,by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
Funny you say that, because my glass actually cracked! But not totally (until I move and bring it to the hackerspace). But while sanding, I had to push very hard on the glass, and I was on a soft support. I though I added some constraints to the glass. If I can find the tool I was talking about, I think it will avoid that. But the glass didn't explodeby fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
cope413 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can get the PET film here... F...k! "Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are nby fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
@cope413, thank for the PET link! Does it need to be changed often? With Kapton, when I try to unstick the printed part, I always scratch it.. I'm tired to have to change the film... About sanding glass, I first sanded it with fine sandpaper, and it does not work at all. It is not only the surface, but also the deep of the stripes. The best would be to be able to make deep but narrow stripes. Buby fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
Well, in fact, Kapton is great, but 1) very expensive 2) very fragile! Maybe a 5mm plate? But it would cost a lot!!!by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
It may work with simple aluminium plate? Easier to sand! I was also wondering if PEEK or other heat/mechanical-resistant plastic would do the trick?by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
I think chemical way is not good, as it won't make stripes deep enough. And, yes, I though about sandblasting, but I don't have such tool. And I really think we need stripes... I'm looking for caorse (24) sand paper for my Festool orbital sander, but I can't find some...by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
Cleaning glass with acetone is not enough to stick...by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
I found that it needs to be sanded with very coarse stuff, to get some deep stripes in the glass; I guess this increases the contact surface, and helps sticking. Gerard, I didn't print very complicated parts yet. Can you point me to a simple but hard-to-stick thing to make a test? PS: I printed this plane, without problem.by fma - Reprappers
Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 10 years ago
Hi! Just wanted to share something I discovered a few days ago, after some experimentations... I'm now able to print on a glass without any additionnal stuff (ABS juice, sugar, hair spray...)! The secret: just sand the surface! Ok, that's not an easy task, as you have to take big sandpaper (I found 24), and scrap for a long time (glass is hard!). But the result is really amazing! This idea caby fma - Reprappers
Re: Strange motor problem - 10 years ago
Yes, yes, YES!!!! Great job! I can now print faster than ever Keep on doing such good job!by fma - Repetier
Re: Strange motor problem - 10 years ago
I tested the hack as shown above, but it does seem to change anything, whatever the value I use... BTW, I was able to run the second script with speeds up to 500mm/s and accel ~5000mm/s² Ok, the tork falls dramatically, and as soon as I touch the bed, the motor looses steps...by fma - Repetier
Re: Strange motor problem - 10 years ago
My printer is an ORD Bot Hadron. In fact, the problem only occurs with travel moves, which are very fast (250mm/s). My above tests use this speed, and I found that increasing the jerk reduces the problem (starting from null speed after a Z move). But with a high jerk, the 180° turn does not work anymore (I can clearly ear that the motor looses a lot of steps). Ok, during printing moves, I can'by fma - Repetier
Re: Strange motor problem - 10 years ago
Can you confirm the start speed is computed in the safeSpeed() function? Is it OK if I do: inline float safeSpeed(PrintLine *p) { float safe; #ifdef USE_ADVANCE if((p->dir & 128) && printer_state.isAdvanceActivated()) { safe = min(p->fullSpeed,printer_state.minimumSpeed); } else #endif safe = min(p->fullSpeed,max(printer_state.minimumSpeed,prby fma - Repetier
Re: Strange motor problem - 10 years ago
Ok, for the start speed; I understand why increasing the jerk (~200-300) was helping! But then, the standard jerk computation was leading to bad movement. So, I think this is the issue: we need a start speed param which can be set much higher than jerk/2. I can give this idea a try: can you point me in the code where you compute this start speed? I will try to put a start speed not from jerk, tby fma - Repetier