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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Basic considerations about Delta printers - 8 years ago
No, the gonio is under the bed, not on the effector... About the spindle, I'm thinking using a little brushless motor, like used in quadcopters... Anyway, these are possible options only, and I really want to build a Delta For now, I need to determine the global size, so arms geometry is an important factor.by fma - Delta Machines
Basic considerations about Delta printers - 8 years ago
Hi! I'm thinking to build a Delta printer from scratch (moslty for fun), and I would like some advices. Here are some infos about the printer I plan to build: - no need fo high speed printing; quality is the main factor -> must be rigid - metal parts as much as possible (aluminium profiles, lasercut plates...) - diam. 10mm (mini) for rods/linear ball bushing - normal build volume (~diam. 25by fma - Delta Machines
Re: Another Remote Extruder 
- 10 years ago
QuoteTHE_SHRUB Quotethe_digital_dentist I think it can be made to work. Even if mechanical losses are high, you can use a bigger motor and more current to drive it. If you had to you could mount a set of bearings in the gear to reduce sliding friction along the square rod. It may not be necessary to make the square hole in the gear all that close fitting on the square rod. The whole carriageby fma - Mechanics
Re: Another Remote Extruder - 10 years ago
Just to say that I'm also trying both technics described here (square shaft and flexible shaft). I designed the ChickenStruder, using a square shaft: I still need to make the motor fixation, but I successuflly printed a part. The idea, now, is to use IGUS filament to print the little gear, or at least the square part sliding of the shaft, to decrease friction. This allows to put multiple extrby fma - Mechanics
Re: filament igus - 10 years ago
Yep, j'ai lu, mais je cherche plutôt un retour des gens qui en ont imprimé...by fma - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: filament igus - 10 years ago
Salut, Tu as refais des essais, avec le filament IGUS ? Peux-tu donner plus d'infos sur ses caractéristiques une fois imprimé : - a-t-il du retrait à l'impression (comme l'ABS) ? - Colle-t-il bien au lit ? - Faut-il le ventiler comme le PLA ? - Tu dis qu'il es cassant : mais est-il quand même résistant ? Se rapproche-t-il du PLA, comme propriétés mécaniques ? Merci d'avance. PS : j'envisageby fma - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Fire Hazard - 10 years ago
Did you try to run such overheating condition, to check how it works? Hotend manufacturers should include a support (simple hole) for these fuses, near the top of the hotend; using a 100°C fuse should do be OK.by fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Fire Hazard - 10 years ago
I agree! That's why this thread is really a good thing. It has already been read 742 times!by fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Fire Hazard - 10 years ago
Yes, as soon as insurance companies are in the loop, things become very complicated... But it all depends what you sell: if you only sell different parts, I don't think you can be blamed. If you sell a complete kit, it can be more tricky. If it is a ready-to-use machine, no doubt that your responsability is engaged!by fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Fire Hazard - 10 years ago
QuoteDeuxVis One way to avoid the thermistor to detach from the hotend is to wrap the heating block - including thermistor and heating resistor - with a few turns of "self fusing" silicone heat resistant tape : +1! QuoteAdded benefit for both solutions is to lower heat waste through air blowing on the heating block, and diminish radiation transmission of heat to the part being printed. ...whicby fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Fire Hazard - 10 years ago
QuoteGonetotx This discussion about heater spec is really good info for me. I'm using a 12 volt power supply for the hot end and a 24 volt supply for the hotbed. I have no idea what the spec is for my extruder heater. Will a 20 watt heater be enough for the ABS? What is the difference between the 20 watt and the 3 watt flame proof 6.8 ohm resister? By calculation, I would have to tune down the vby fma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: cutting - 10 years ago
@Rooski, How do you export to gcode from Inkscape? Thanks,by fma - General
Re: Runnin Slic3r with perl 5.18 - 10 years ago
I'm unable to start Slic3r at all... 00:12:35.358 : Perl API version v5.14.0 of Boost::Geometry::Utils does not match v5.18.0 at /usr/share/perl/5.18/XSLoader.pm line 92. 00:12:35.358 : Compilation failed in require at /opt/RepetierHost-0.90d/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32. 00:12:35.358 : BEGIN failed--compilation aborted at /opt/RepetierHost-0.90d/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32. 00:12:35.358 :by fma - Slic3r
Re: Runnin Slic3r with perl 5.18 - 10 years ago
Don't remember the errors, but there is a message (or maybe it is in the sources), saying that Slic3r should be run with Perl < 5.16... So, this is a known problem...by fma - Slic3r
Re: Serial com. - 11 years ago
That's a nice code! Easy to customize... I love that I'll let you know whow it works... Thanks for your answer!by fma - Repetier
Serial com. - 11 years ago
I have a lot of problems with USB com with my Azteeg X3 running Repetier firmware. The X3 has a serial port connector I would like to use to connect to a real RS232 port on my computer (using a TTL converter). I don't know yet if this serial port is wired to the same ATMega serial port as internal FTDI... If it is not the case, is there a way to use another serial port in the firmware? Can you pby fma - Repetier
Runnin Slic3r with perl 5.18 - 11 years ago
Hi! I can't run anymore Slic3r on my debian sid, as 5.18 is now the current version of perl. It seems that some warnings in previous versions are now fatal in this version... Is there something (simple) I can do, as a non perl developper, to get it work? If not, any idea when a release compatible with perl 5.18 will be available? Thanks,by fma - Slic3r
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
fma Wrote: > @mondo50m, as said, frosted glass is made with a > chemical proces, and I think it won't be deep > enough. But I plan to give it a try, as soon as I > find some. Juste tried frosted glass: it works too!!! Maybe not as well as Kapton/PET taped-bed, especially with very tall parts, but for simple parts, it is far enough. As said, I don't even use raft/brim.by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
Ok, I will give it a try, if it is not too expensive...by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
lotw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > [...] > I do think it is funny at people are building > bigger and bigger repraps without addressing the > bed sticking issue. Only gets worse the larger > you go. I agree. I tend to print only 1 part at a time, to avoid wasting ABS when something goes wrong. I only print several parts when they are too small,by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
Funny you say that, because my glass actually cracked! But not totally (until I move and bring it to the hackerspace). But while sanding, I had to push very hard on the glass, and I was on a soft support. I though I added some constraints to the glass. If I can find the tool I was talking about, I think it will avoid that. But the glass didn't explodeby fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
cope413 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can get the PET film here... F...k! "Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are nby fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
@cope413, thank for the PET link! Does it need to be changed often? With Kapton, when I try to unstick the printed part, I always scratch it.. I'm tired to have to change the film... About sanding glass, I first sanded it with fine sandpaper, and it does not work at all. It is not only the surface, but also the deep of the stripes. The best would be to be able to make deep but narrow stripes. Buby fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
Well, in fact, Kapton is great, but 1) very expensive 2) very fragile! Maybe a 5mm plate? But it would cost a lot!!!by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
It may work with simple aluminium plate? Easier to sand! I was also wondering if PEEK or other heat/mechanical-resistant plastic would do the trick?by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
I think chemical way is not good, as it won't make stripes deep enough. And, yes, I though about sandblasting, but I don't have such tool. And I really think we need stripes... I'm looking for caorse (24) sand paper for my Festool orbital sander, but I can't find some...by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
Cleaning glass with acetone is not enough to stick...by fma - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS on glass without any additionnal stuff - 11 years ago
I found that it needs to be sanded with very coarse stuff, to get some deep stripes in the glass; I guess this increases the contact surface, and helps sticking. Gerard, I didn't print very complicated parts yet. Can you point me to a simple but hard-to-stick thing to make a test? PS: I printed this plane, without problem.by fma - Reprappers