Ive just swapped my A4988 for DRV8825's on ramps 1.4. If you turn them over you can see most of the pins are the same but a few are swapped. These seem to be just for the jumpers on the ramps board. My A4988 were jumpered for 1/16 microstepping but the same jumpers on the ramps board gives me the 1/32 microstepping for the DRV8825'S. Make sure you get them plugged in the right way round. On myby gordonendersby - RAMPS Electronics
Not everyone knows how to use one. Theyre called feeler guages for a reason. You need to get the feel of the gap with just the right resistence/lack of resistence. I also got fed up of tearing of bits of paper and the litter. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Your first layer should be thicker than your layer height to ensure good adhesion. It should also help with minor differences in nozzle height across the build plate. So if you can get that first thicker layer down it should even out for the later thinner layers. On my prusa i2 i use a 0.08mm feeler guage to set the nozzle height on my ikea mirror tiles. And i think the first layer is 0.3mm withby gordonendersby - Printing
Most of the brim breaks off. The last littlebit i use a small file just to clean it up. Or you can use a small modellers scalpel/knife. Kapton is easy to put on if you know how. I put 20cm wide kapton on my ikea mirror glass with a little bit of soapy water and then squeegy them with an old credit/debit card. I use a tray big enough for the glass with the soapy water in it. Drop the glass in andby gordonendersby - Printing
I print the large wheel, in fact all abs, on kapton tape with a brim and the bed at 110degC and nozzle at 230degC. I can repeat it like this without any problems and doesnt shift off the bed. It can be difficult to remove but will come off after removing the brim and giving it a sharp knock with a screwdriver handle. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Do you mean in can bend a bit? As i was led to believe it was stronger than both abs and pla. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Im about to invest in a roll of Taulman bridge, the nylon mix they made to be easier to print than straight nylon. My only connection to this lot is as a customer. I mainly print in abs at the moment with a dabble in ninjaflex but this should be better for hotter areas and stronger too. Its supposed to stick to the build plate easier than regular nylon but still have the extra strength and higby gordonendersby - Printing
Ive been using one for a few months now 3mm direct drive. Very good hot end. It was a bit tight on my prusa i2 between the smooth rods and i had to redesgn the xcarriage to get the fan shroud in. Not had a single jam or problem. What i also like is you can swap the nozzles between different sizes. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Treefrog is always fun And you can usually give it away afterwards. Its got a good overhang underneath. Its back shows how well the plastic is melting together. The legs are fairly thin and the ears need the printer to slow down to give good definition. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
I think ive found out after working my way through ghe issues in git. Looks like someone accidentally published the next milestone version by accident. It got sean and mentioned on facebook. Then pulled back. Gordonby gordonendersby - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Hi guys. The other day there was a post on the reprap facebook page announcing marlin 1.03 with some intetesting new features. It pointed to the github marlin project at Under releases it showed 1.0, 1.02 and 1.03. I was going to give it a try but it seams to have disapeared. Ive loaded 1.02 today but it doesnt have all the features promised by 1.03. Does anyone know whats happening? Thanksby gordonendersby - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Ive got the same setup as you. I2, hexagon hot end gregs wade extruder. I swap between .3, .4 and .5mm nozzles on the extruder when i want. Ive gone direct drive so im not restricted on materials and it works fine. Im getting 50mm/s and good prints. Abs, pla, ninjaflex. I got the chance to compare it to an ultimaker 2 recently and my printer was just as quick and as good prints. The hexagon andby gordonendersby - General Mendel Topics
Im trying to find the variation that had a bit of extra plastic under the hobbed bolt to stop flexible filaments from kinking in the extruder. Ive seen it once but didnt need it at the time and havnt found it since. Greg, great work on the extruders. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
Ive got a direct wades reloaded with no modifications for flexible filament and had to slow it down to 30mm/s to stop the ninja flex from bunching up. And had to loosen of the grip on the hobbed bolt a bit. As it was just deforming the filament and deflecting the path a bit in the extruder. I normaly print at 50mm/s for abs. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Normally ramps wont run the extruder if the thermistor for the hot end isnt at full temperature. So you will need to disable minimum temperature or set it below ambient temperatue in the firmware. What your looking for is called something else. Its often referred to as jogging or moving the axis. The extruder is treated as just another axis in the firmware. Not sure on your particular lcd but iby gordonendersby - Reprappers
Ive recently printed with some white ninja flex and found that gooey on the nozzle as well. I cleaned it between prints. Its very sticky stuff. I used 230degC for nozzle and about 60 for bed with just clean mirror glass. It did ooze a bit and i had to watch for the start of the print to pull the ooze away. Maybe a bit hotter to flow better and not get stuck to the nozzle? Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Ive just searched for "arduino mega regulator fix" and found loads of examples. Gordonby gordonendersby - Reprappers
It will probably be the voltage regulator. Power through the usb port bypasses the regulator so its been working for you on the pc. But when you power through ramps from the 12v the regulator isnt working and providing the 5v you need. I think you can fix it if you look out for the instructions on the net. I must admit i uavnt bothered when ive trashed mine as ive mainly used cheap arduino megaby gordonendersby - Reprappers
Theres nothing wrong with the i2. I built one from scratch as my first machine sourcing parts from all over. It would cost less than £300 to reproduce. I now get as good prints as ready built machines over £2000 pounds. In fact had a chance to compare my printed parts to an ultimaker 2 recently and the were as good if not a bit better. But i have spent time in improving and tuning it over time.by gordonendersby - General Mendel Topics
There are 2 types of lm8uu bearings european and asian. The european are lm8eu Im pretty sure one is slightly longer than the other. I specifically ordered the european so i knew exactly which spec i had and ive found them a bit tight in most holders ive printed. Maybe you have the asia made ones? Gordonby gordonendersby - General Mendel Topics
Ive been using the ikea mirror glass. It does seem to be pretty strong and very flat. I use kapton tape on top for abs heated to between 80 and 110degC depending on size of print. 20cm wide roll of kapton is ideal. Pla and ninja flex just need the plane mirror cleaned with pure acetone and bed at 65deg C.by gordonendersby - General
Im using 3mm abs from 3dfilaprint. They do 1.75mm and lotsof other materials as well. The diameter is pretty stable through the roll. Prices are quite good as well. Not involved with them except as a customer. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
Have i managed to stump the experts? Gordonby gordonendersby - General
You dont want to power the raspberry pi through any 5v output on the ramps board as the raspi needs a lot of power especially if you are going to attach anything to it. Like a wireless dongle or camera. All of thd 5v lines on ramps are supplied by the regulator on board taken from the 12v input. Take another 5v line directly from your atx power supply and you will have plenty of power. Gordonby gordonendersby - RAMPS Electronics
What size is your nozzle? If you mean .5mm layer height your nozzle would Have to be around .7 to .8mm. Your bed temp is low for abs i find 90 to 110. 110 for bigger objects. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Is it pure acetone? Some is sold with oils and other ingredients, especially if intended for cosmetic purposes. Nail polish remover for example. This could be your white deposit. Ive got pure acetone bought in 5 litre containers and ive not seen any residue when ive glued abs things together or played with brushing it on. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
Dear all, Ive been playing with swapping filament colours during the print. Ive got some gcode ive adapted from an example ive found and it works but i have to manually feed the filament in to purge the previous colour by hand. Some filament needs more purging than others and as ive got a smart controller i can extrude the new filament through the lcd interface. But if i do that the gcode afteby gordonendersby - General
Usually you need to vary the speed of the fan so that its on slow for the start of the print and full for the rest. This hel0s the bed adhesion. Or you may need more fan speed for smaller prints to cool them quicker. But you need a constant fan for the hexagon to keep the cool end cool. On all the time the hot end is powered. So i cant see how a single fan shared between keeping the hexagon cooby gordonendersby - General
Some of these ducted fans are too targeted just on where you extrude. You sometimes need airfow over the whole print. Try a desktop fan blowing over the whole print and see if that helps. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
You dont need slurry with kapton tape. I run my bed up to 110DegC with a brim for larger parts that are at risk of lifting. But for most stuff just 90DegC with no brim is more than enough on kapton tape. Usually it comes of easy enough with a bit of teasing under the brim. But for more stubborn parts i tease of the brim then give the part a short sharp knock with the handle of a heavy screwdriby gordonendersby - Printing