Ive seen an ultimaker 2 do this from cura. With the print profiles in cura for the ultimaker 2. But i havnt noticed a switch or preference to use it with my prusa i2 when i use cura for slicing. Gordonby gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
Remove the tape from around the black part of the hot end. This is supposed to keep the filament feed cool. If you have tape over it it will not cool and the filament will stick. Its a good idea to have some air flow from a fan running over it as well. If you need the tape to keep the thermister in place just wrap the tape around the heater block. Gordonby gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
I use kapton without problems. Yes it degrades after a few prints. I get through two plates worth a week. It doesnt pop off after printing. It sticks very well! I keep the bed temp to the lowest i can get away with without the print lifting. Small stuff 95c large stuff 110c sometimes with the printer covered. I find a short sharp knock with the handle of a heavy screwdriver when the bed is coldby gordonendersby - Printing
I find you do have to wipe it with acetone before use. I put my 20cm full width tape on with a tray full of slightly soapy water then squeegy it with an old credit/debit card. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
Ninjaflex is the same temp as abs. I used about 230c when i last printed with it. Any higher and it seemed to ooze too much. Even at 230 i had to prime the nozzle just before printing or it would ooze out. And print slow. Fastest i got was 20mm/s. Needs some cooling fan as well or it just droops away from the print head. You cant print anything that uses support as the ninjaflex wont support itseby gordonendersby - General
Id recomend the hexagon all metal. Good for high temp printing. £42 including thermistor, heater, little tool kit. 12v or 24v, bowden/non bowden. I realy like the new fixing ststem theyve got to hold the heater and thermistor. Been using the previous design now for months with great success. Abs, ninjaflex, taulman bridge nylon. Particularly like that i can swap out the nozzles between 0.3mm anby gordonendersby - General
Digitaldentist, I picked the 20cm side tape so i wouldnt have joins showing. But your idea of only replacing the thinner strips makes a lot of sense and hadnt occured to me. Ill have to give it a try Itll make the tape last even longer. Do you get much in the way of marks underneath with the edges? I could keep the full width tape for when i want the base to be the top smooth surface of the printby gordonendersby - General
Couple of ideas for your experiment. You dont need to use hairspray, as the glue for the pape,r as your not worried about irs effect on the print bottom surface as you will have paper between the print and glue. You could use a spray fixing glue to hold the paper or any other glue. Paper tends to warp/ripple when you glue it, maybe a thin card instead? also ive had great results, no warping orby gordonendersby - General
The full graphics controller works great on my i2. Just a couple of changes in marlin before loading the firmware up. I never connect the pc. I only print from sd card after a few accidents because of the pc being connected. The graphic controller is used for everything from tweaking settings while im printing to setting the bed level and priming the extruder when changing filament. Also reallyby gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
All mine nip up nicely and dont move. The internal thread on the drive gear must be a very loose fit for it to be that bad. It could have been cut badly in manufacture. Does it feel sloppy before it locks if you wind a longer screw into the thread? And obviuosly too small to tap out to the next size up. Or re thread to the same size with a helicoil or thread sert. You may have to try a new one.by gordonendersby - General
This guy is spamming ghe forum and sending pm's. Not exactly in the spirit of the forum is it.by gordonendersby - Developers
250c is very high for abs and too high for pla. I went for the all metal hexagon ready for higher temp materials but havnt looked at thermocouples yet to replace the thermistor. The higest i go with abs is 235c so within j-head ranges. The nylon ive started using prints at 240c but i need to experiment a bit more and head up to 250c. Taulman bridge nylon which is one of the easier nylons to prinby gordonendersby - Reprappers
From what i understood about 240c with j-heads due to materials used. Its not just the hot end but also the thermister upper temp limit. The extruder itself can be ABS as its above the heat break. I use the aluminium mounting plate as i think it gives it abit more of a heat sink. Gordonby gordonendersby - Reprappers
Thanks very much. Thats given me some options. My ramps board has just toasted the power connector for the heated bed supply and is now going nuts ovefheating the nozzle. So once ive troubleshootdd that ill go through those links and get some ordered. Looks like ill have to break out the spare and then have a play at fixing it. I appreciate thd time you took to look that lot up. Thanks. Gordonby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi all, Need bit of a sanity check as my ramps board may have got fried. I had the power supply screw and plug connector burn this evening and cut power to the heated bed. Print finished with no heated bed ok, amazing. I replaced the burnt plug and socket on the board and at first it all looked good. Ran everything up all motors worked as expected. Heated up the nozxle and bed. But after a shby gordonendersby - RAMPS Electronics
I used a cheap j-head clone like this before i got my hexagon. I got the hexagon for higher temp materials. It printed pla and abs perfectly well but i did need to have a fan pointed at the black body for best results especially on long prints. And remember to remove ghe kapton tape from the body. The tape should only be on the heater block. Gordonby gordonendersby - Reprappers
Thanks. Id appreciate that. I ordeRed the first lot as i read elsewhere the rc crowd used the 2mm ones for charging/balancing battery packs. Made an asumption these were 2mm. now i look at the add theres no mention of 2mm. Doh. Im in the UK. Farnell UK wanted £20 minimum order. RS UK didnt have the crimps in stock. But did have the housings. But that was based on me looking at the zh series. Gaby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Did the motor get very hot to the touch? I had something similar a couple of weeks ago. Id set my stepper drivers a bit high due to a misunderstanding on the direction of turn of the pot. Drv8834's. Also i had some excessive wear on my x-axis rods that was causing the bearings to bind a bit. Those two together caused my x-acis stepper motor, not the driver board, to get so hot it nipped up and sby gordonendersby - Printing
Csambrook, Heres the 2 together. The 2mm i just ordered is too big seen here next to the one on my printer. Heres my original on a scale. And on the vernier jaws Sorry that ones a bit blurry but it does seem to be 1.5mm between centres on the crimps. And the new too big one. These were the first ones that are too big. These are the next lot im waiting for. Seems wasteful to to buy malby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I came across one company in the US but they were pretty expensive. And farnell sell pre crimped wires to go in the housing but they were very expensive. The 2mm ones were definetly too big for my nema 17 steppers. Gordonby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I think ive foound them theyre the 1.5mm version not the 2mm. Ive got some on the way to try. Tried ordering them from farnell as theyre not that expensive but couldnt think of anything else i wanted at the time to pad the order out to the £20 minimum. So ended up ordering them through ebay from the far east as it worked out cheaper. Im hoping my crimp tool fits the connectors. It fits the tinyby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
This is all ive come across so far on mixing and matching. Not TMC2100 though. It seems thekey thing is orientation as pins can get confused when mixing and matching. Gordonby gordonendersby - Reprappers
The bits I found you dont want to scrimp on are the hot end and the stepper drivers. Start with a good quality J-head or all metal like the hexagon Hot end. The decent stepper drivers will make setting it up easier. Cheap arduino megas can be pretty good these days and the same with the ramps board. Just shop around with a recomendation from another user For a supplier. A lot of the materialsby gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
Sourcing the parts and building it yourself is not rocket science. Id advice you to just get on with it, source the parts and build it. Yes it will be qucker with a kit but if you take your time and research each part as you go you will have a far superior machine and you will know it inside out. You will learn a lot more and be able to trouble shoot properly when things dont work as you expect.by gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
start with the reprap website. Read everything that looks interesting in the wiki and get a rough idea of which type of printer you like the look off. Theres enough info on there to scratch build and source the parts for a decent printer. If you pick the printer you like the look off then use the bill of materials to self source the components you can save a fair amount of money over the kits yby gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
I used abs that i dont usually need to cool but needed to cool for this print. So i went from no fan to about 30-40% fan on mine. Pla needs the fan more than abs for any print. So with your pla try increasing your fan speed some more and your nozzle temp a few degrees. Is your fan ducted to the nozzle? Or like mine a fair distance from the nozzle? If its ducted to quite close to the nozzle you pby gordonendersby - Printing
I found it quite a surprisingly hard print. I did it in abs with a 0.3mm nozxle. And i couldnt print the ovefhangs underneath till i put quite a lot of cooling on the nozzle as it printed. You need to up the temp a little with the fan. But once i added the fans it came out perfect. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
How about that ive just come across the extruder body. Ill have to print this out and have a try. For both 3mm and 1.75mm filament If you look just under where the pinch wheel and hobbed bolt shold be theres an extra bit of plastic built up to guide the flexible filament where it kinks. Gordonby gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
Ive printed ninjaflex with the hexagon and a .3mm nozzle. With direct a feed wades reloaded with hexagon gears. I had to slow it down to 20mms and play around with the temperature and run it a little hotter. Keep retraction on but slow it down. You can put an extra bit of plastic in the extruder below the pinch wheel and hobbed bolt to prevent it kinking there. I did see an extruder body with thby gordonendersby - Prusa i3 and variants
What a well used i2 looks like. Gordonby gordonendersby - Look what I made!