Because they are quite good printers and quite capable of printing small precise items. Its all well and good making bigger printers with bigger beds but some of us have taken the time to tune the design for some remarkable results. Ive uprated the extruder and fitted a hexagon all metal hot end. Ive modified the x-carriage for it and the cooling it needs. Ive modified the bed mounts to a rigid hby gordonendersby - Look what I made!
Bit concerned about how you level your bed with a spirit level. Your should not be aligning it to The frame but to the axis's the print head moves in. There is no way that you will have built the printer to the tolerences neccesary for all of the axis to be perpandicular to each other and aligned to the frame. You need to put the print head at at least 4 positions on the bed and then adjust theby gordonendersby - Printing
I use metal feeler gauges. Always with bed and nozzle at printing heat and filament retracted and wiped off. 0.08mm for my 0.3mm nozzle. 0.1mm for my 0.5mm nozzle. Once you get a feel for feeler guages they are very accurate. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
Oh no its not. They arrived in the post and are too large. So not the 2mm version. Gordonby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Im afraid not. The reset button is connected to the reset pin on the microcontroller. Im sure you could write code that would cause the microcontroller to reset. But the reason you want to reset the controller could also prevent that code running. Thats why it has its own pin dedicated to reset. So no matter what state the microcontroller has got itself into the microcontroller can still be resby gordonendersby - RAMPS Electronics
But if you want to ramp up the speed you want the volume of the 3mm. I chose 3mm when i built my prusa i2 as at the time there was plenty around. So far all the abs, pla, nylon and nynjaflex ive usec has been available in 3mm. Certainly had no pronlems getting it. Or extruding it through the hotend. The ultimaker 2 uses 2.85 and some of the filament sellers pass of 2.85 as 3mm. Not much of a prby gordonendersby - General
When i feel like splashing out and not beefing up the board myself thiscompany have a 24v arduino mega clone and a decent quality ramps board. Bit more expensive but most of the works done for you. If only it had locking conndctors for the motors, thermisters and endstops. Taurino power is the 12-35v mega and the ramps board matches its spec. No connection to company except ive bought a few biby gordonendersby - RAMPS Electronics
I can cart my prusa i2 around in the back of the car without damage and not having to do much setup when i get to my destination. I secure the bed with some velcro straps to stop it moving about. Would be more convenient in a box. But most printers if built properly are fairly robust and at the most would need fixing to some kind of base board then lock the moving parts in position for transit.by gordonendersby - Reprappers
Theres an exyra arduino library you need. U8glib. Gordonby gordonendersby - Firmware - mainstream and related support
It could be overheating that wouldnt show up on shorter prints. Are you cooling your controller board and stepper drivers? Are the motors very hot to the touch? If not it could be a faulty resetable fuse if its a ramps board. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
Found out what they are now. JST 6 way 2mm Available from places like farnell. Gordonby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Guys, My google skills are failing me today. And not a wiff on ebay except supplied with the motors. Does anyone know the name, spec or part numbers for the 6 pin female plugs on my Nema17 stepper motors. I want to bit of rewiring and could do with getting 5 of these with crimps to make a new wiring loom for my printer. Thanks Gordonby gordonendersby - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Is the psu thats not giving 12v a pc power supply as well? As they use the 5v line to regulate power. Unless you put a load on the 5v supply it will not supply a good 12v. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
On the ramps board there are connections for xyz min and max endstops. But you still need to set it in firmware. Gordonby gordonendersby - General Mendel Topics
My hexagon has self cleaned when purged of the previous filament without any problem. I swap between different size nozzles and between abs, ninjaflex and now nylon. Ive never had to manually clean the inside of the hot end or nozzle. And apart from cleaning the outside of the nozzle, crud can build up especially the ninjaflex, ive not had any contamination like that. As to cooling the hexagon.by gordonendersby - Printing
My hexagon has self cleaned when purged of the previous filament without any problem. I swap between different size nozzles and between abs, ninjaflex and now nylon. Ive never had to manually clean the inside of the hot end or nozzle. And apart from cleaning the outside of the nozzle, crud can build up especially the ninjaflex, ive not had any contamination like that. As to cooling the hexagon.by gordonendersby - Printing
Ive got a ramps board that i removed the cheap screw connectors and replaced with known good 16amp versions. Ive also replaced the motor connector pins with proper locking connectors. I havnt found anything small enough for the end stops or thermistor connectors. Im also thinking of replacing the mosfets for higher grade ones. To stop the power inputs scorching ive fitted crimped on very thinby gordonendersby - RAMPS Electronics
From your pic, shouldnt the y-axis end stop switch be at the back of your printer not the front? If so move it to the back then invert your y-axis. Either through the motor wiring or the firmware. Gordonby gordonendersby - General Mendel Topics
Hi guys, Ive started offering my services 3d printing in Croydon, South London. Nylon, ABS, NinjaFlex. It seems there arnt many people offering this service this far south of the river. If you are local you are welcome to collect your prints personally or i can post. My printer has been tweaked and modified and able to print fine quality parts. More printers being added soon. Find me on 3dHubsby gordonendersby - Job Shop: I make stuff!
Import the file into something like freecad and use the measuring function. Under the part workbench. Youl need to turn it into a solid and then probably simplify the the part. Then you can use the measure function and select 2 points, edges or faces to measure. Freecad is open source. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Theres London hackspace in the east end, theyve got a thriving 3d print group. Then theres us at South London makerspace, in Herne Hill, a lot of us have 3d printers. You shouod pop along. We held an arduino day event today. I was printing arduino accesories. And guess what part i had laying in my pile of printing examples. Printed in nylon. And im on 3dhubs. Gordonby gordonendersby - General
You may need to keep the heat In the print more. Give it a try with a cover over the printer to keep the heat in a bit over the whole print. Just some cardboard laying over the printer or a large cardboard box. I do it with larger prints to prevent the warping. Gordonby gordonendersby - General Mendel Topics
Here we go first useful print. Wades extruder guide and pinch bearing holder. Fairly pleased with that. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
I seem to have it printing really well now. Once id dried the filament for an hour in the oven at a low temp it was totally different to print with. The brim and first layer went down much more evenly and no popping sound. So even though it was a new roll it had some moisture in there. I upped the temp to 245 and retraction to 5mm and it seemed to string a lot less. My nozzle is .5mm it seems tby gordonendersby - Printing
Tried drying it at 150 it turned opaque, swollen and bubbled along most of its length after about 1/2 an hour. Totally unusable. Luckily i cut of 2 metres so didnt loose the reel. ggherbaz Are you sure that was Taulman bridge you put in the oven at 150c? Now trying at lowest setting of the oven for 1/2 an hour. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Thanks for that lot. Plenty for me to try. Especially the jar trick Id previously lowered my overlap to 5% for abs as the default 15% was causing patterns in the walls. Ill try increasing that. Do you find it can effect the surface finish or is the nylon thst much more fluid it doesnt effect them? Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Just been looking at what images i have found and my earler slower prints surfaces look pretty similar. They also keep stating how much better it is supposed to be at keeping moisture at bay. Maybe the biggest factor could be the speed and im just going too quick. Ill have to have another play tomorrow with some test cubes rather than the larger stuff i was trying to print today. Gordonby gordonendersby - Printing
Ggherbaz, 1, Its brand new practically straight out of the bag stored with crystals to take out the moisture. I didnt think it had time to get wet. The 2 earlier smaller prints looked fine. It does crackle a little in the nozxle but no steam but id heard it does crackle a little as there will be some moisture in the skin of the filament no matter what you do. Also they claim Taulman bridge is beby gordonendersby - Printing
Ive just started printing with Tailman bridge. Ive done a few small prints without any problems and got really good results. Nice smooth finish, sharp edges, strong and nearly unbreakable. All with a nozzle temp of 240degC Which is lower than recomended but it was stringing a lot when hotter. So i decided to print something a bit bigger. This power supply tray for my printer. Sliced in cura. Nby gordonendersby - Printing
Ive not tried the v5 or v6 but have got the hexagon after using j-head's. The hexagon is very good and ive had no jams or problems. I switch between pla, abs, ninja flex and now nylon without any problems. You have to keep a fan on the fins at all times when the hot end is hot or it could jam. I especially like that i can switch between nozxle sizes between 0.3 and 0.5mm. Im about to try a 0.2mmby gordonendersby - General