Figured it out. DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE needs to be really low for Z. I set it at 20 and that works fine. Now I have this thread to remind me in a year when I forgetby RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
Quoteobewan Have you sent M502 and M500 to update the values in the eeprom ? Thanks for the tip. Tried that. Still no dice. does G1 Z10 F5000 override DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE? If not, I would expect that even with F5000, the feedrate would be clipped at the default maxby RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
Greetings Having an issue with max feedrate in the Z axis. Marlin appears to be ignoring my setting for this. In the past, I could set DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE as (1000, 1000, 100, 25). And if I threw a G1 Z10 F5000 at it, Z would only move at 100. That doesn't appear to be the case and Z is trying to move at 5000 - which it can't so it stalls. I've had this problem in the past and I fixed it, buby RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
Is there a way to control the line thickness for infills? For instance, If I set infill to 20% using rectilinear, I would like the rectilinear infill lines to extrude at 0.8mm rather than the nozzle diameter. I recall doing this at some point in the past. Maybe I was dreaming.by RickRap - Slic3r
After more research, it looks like a DC-DC SSR is the way to go. $15 on Amazon is reasonable for a noob like me. Perhaps in the future I will try a MOSFET (about $2)by RickRap - Reprappers
nominal 1.0 ohms (~1.2). ~10 amps which would be 120watts. No documentation on what the 'power rating' is but given those values that sounds reasonable. With 24volts, that would be 20 amps. I'm pretty sure the MKS board would be stretching it to support that much current. Is there any way to add resistance to the heatbed?by RickRap - Reprappers
Thanks tons for the reply. I should clarify. I already purchased a 400 x 400 12v aluminum heated bed. Already have 24v components sourced (fans, lights, etc.) and that was easier than I expected. I also already have a 24v 350 watt PS. For reference, I use 12v heaters on all my 200 x 200 printers and it takes less than 2 min for 100c. If I use a secondary PS for the bed, how do I control thatby RickRap - Reprappers
I am building a 400 x 400 printer that is using an MK2 heated bed. I'd like to run the printer at 24v, but the print bed is only 12v. This will be run via Smoothie. Looking for suggestions as to how I could rig this up. It's possible I could install a dedicated 12v PSU, but I'm not sure how to regulate the temperature from Smoothie. Otherwise, I can use 12v for the whole system, but would prefby RickRap - Reprappers
QuoteJustSumGuy I have not heard of wiring the second Z motor to the E-1 driver, I am sure you could but I believe the accepted way to run dual Z motors is with one driver output. I know you don't want to, but turning up your drivers output and running dual driver as you said you tried is what I would expect is what you need.... good luck The only reason it was 'accepted' is because older fiby RickRap - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks Roxy. I was wondering about that. In fact, wondering about a lot of things with this setup. I'm slowly warming up to it, but I'm keeping a watchful eye. Thanks Rich for the setting.by RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
I have a BL touch working great except that the second probe during the bed leveling grid probe does not go up high enough. Does anyone know where the setting for this is in Marlin? working on 1.1.x RC8by RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
Just saw this. I have 3 BLTouch in use. Very happy with their performance. I'm using MKS 1.5 running marling 1.1.x RC8. Took me FOREVER to get this configured correctly. I'm assuming you have endstops for x/y axes as well, correct? Z homing won't happen without those. I will share my Marlin settings. The only issue I have right now is that during bed leveling probe, Z does not go up as high aby RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
I have dual Z-axes that I want to have discreet drivers for. I have wired up the second Z axis to E1. I have enabled all the options in Marlin. This is able to drive the second Z axis with the E1 driver, but the steps per unit is way out of whack. It seems as though it's 10x the speed of the Z axis running off the Z driver. Where do I set the steps for this second axis? I have tried doing so byby RickRap - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I had all kinds of challenges with the latest Marlin firmware getting this to work. I then loaded V1.1.0 RC8 and now everything works a charm. Might want to give that a try.by RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
This always happens: post a question then you discover the answer. Not sure what the problem was, but I'm thinking it had to do with defining absolute x,y,z. I sliced my part with a G92 X0 Y0 Z0 at the beginning and that fixed it. I was concerned that it would wipe out the leveling info gathered from G29, but it doesn't appear that's the case.by RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
Posted this in Electronics, but this is probably a better place. Not sure what I messed up, but I am having some very strange behavior after installing a BL touch. All my prints stop after 5mm in the Z direction. Is there some setting I may have tweeked that limits print height to 5mm?by RickRap - Firmware - Marlin
Not sure what I messed up, but I am having some very strange behavior after installing a BL touch. All my prints stop after 5mm in the Z direction. Is there some setting I may have tweeked that limits print height to 5mm?by RickRap - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Posed this question 2 years ago. Can't believe how nuts everyone is over spinners. I'm printing tons of 'em. Well, lbs/kilos of them anyway.by RickRap - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
need a handy 5v minu USB/OTG (on the go) lead to power a RPi or something else? Get one of these devices: This is one of the handiest devices I've come across in a while.by RickRap - Look what I made!
On most power supplies, the screws for power leads are 4mm. Replace them with socket head 4mm screws. It seems I always have a 3mm allen head lying around, but Philips head screwdrivers are scarce in my shop. Go figure.by RickRap - Look what I made!
Noisy steppers? Get some rubber hose that's got an ID the size of your mounting screws (probably 3mm). Make thin 'washer' sized slices and mount them between the motor and whatever you're mounting it to.by RickRap - Look what I made!
I didn't mean to sound like the springs were providing lateral support. I was more referring to any shifting that could occur while adjusting.by RickRap - Mechanics
The typical spring you seen on print beds is a straight compression spring. These are ok and inexpensive. But a better spring is a cone-shaped spring. The wide base helps a great deal with keeping the bed from shifting plus it looks bitchin. In the states, you can find these at Home Depot for around $1 manufactured by Crown Bolt. That's not bad, but inconvenient if you want to buy a couple hundreby RickRap - Mechanics
really love this idea! I think the guy on Thingiverse is on the right track but considering he posted that in 2013 is telling you it's a bit challenging to figure it out. One challenge will be keeping the shaft from flexing. That's a long way to carry torque on a small diameter shaft. The fluted shaft you show in your model would be muy expensivo (no, I don't speak Spanish). But I'm with the OPby RickRap - Mechanics
I've had similar issues (I think I posted something here about it). Turned out for me to be wonky thermistor connection. I replaced the thermistor completely with all new wiring and connector. That took care of it. If you're using any new E3D hot end, the new cartridge thermistor is the shiznit.by RickRap - Mechanics
I thought it could be the thermistor but I was in denial. I've been using those all-in-one thermistors with the threaded end. They've worked great on 2 of my printers and I didn't want to admit that it wasn't perfect Just thought maybe someone would have seen this either in slicing or possibly the controller. Like maybe a bad mosfet or something.by RickRap - Printing
Anyone have any idea why this would be happening?by RickRap - Printing
Figured it out: The 30A power supply I'm using has mounting points on the bottom. The M4 screws I was using are steel. They were bottoming out and grounding the board to the case. Replaced them with resin screws. Problem solved.by RickRap - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks David Bottom line it sounds like there's a ground loop somewhere. This happens immediately once the PSU is powered up so it's not impacted by the heated bed. The only thing I'm not clear on is that I can plug into the USB on the RPi and there's no problem. In fact, all of my printers are driven by RPi zero with a USB/enet hub. It's a slick setup. But there are times when I want to take prby RickRap - RAMPS Electronics
I have had this problem several times now and I just can't seem to get to the bottom of it. I have a RAMPS 1.4 connected to a typical cartesian printer, e3D lite 6 hotend, MK1 6" x 11" heated bed. If I run this setup via RPi + OctoPrint, no problems. If I connect the RAMPS to a PC USB, Immediate meltdown at the USB port. This doesn't always happen. At first I thought it was bad USB cable, but thby RickRap - RAMPS Electronics