- voor PLA heb je geen heatbed nodig - afstand tussen printbed en nozzle zo klein mogelijk maar niet kleiner dan de "platheid" van je heatbed, zodat je niet op 1 plek netjes net boven het bed zit en ergens anders vol het heatbed ingaat. - slic3r heeft een verhaal geschreven over de eerste laag en waar die het beste aan voldoen. hoogte=nozzle, width gelijk aan 2 x nozzle.by Frans@France - Algemeen
That's normal, when the filament is pushed into the hotend a pressure will build up and the only escape is the nozzle. Therefor while printing you will set the retract to solve the oozing.by Frans@France - Printing
@24volt that driver will run very hot. Setting the reference voltage is harder to do.by Frans@France - RAMPS Electronics
and cheap fillersby Frans@France - Polymer Working Group
QuoteLoboCNCUnfortunately,I don't know where you can buy these individually. aliexpress 4 motors USD 17.50by Frans@France - General
I think it's under extruding now but if this it the first layer then there is also an issue with the distance between the nozzle and bed. As far as I can guess the nozzle is so far above the bed that the plastic doesn't stick to the bed and the nozzle will drag the plastic away from the place where it first deposited it.by Frans@France - Printing
can you include the coordinates of the sensors in the table/image? Is there a relation between distance from the sensor and the point where the data is inconsistent?by Frans@France - General
Quotegforce1 Laagdikte moet je apart instellen, je hebt hem nu op 0.4 mm staan. Richtlijn voor de maximale laagdikte is 80% van je nozzle diameter. Dus maximaal 0.32 mm. inderdaad maar dan ook rekening houden met de z-axis resolutie zodat er geen opeenstapeling van afrondingsfouten optreed.by Frans@France - Algemeen
Quote19roland70mij lijkt (denk ik) dat ik meer lagen moet printen voor een gladde zijkant. Euh...een gladde zijkant is eigenlijk onmogelijk maar meer info inclusief wat microscope plaatjes oa hier Let wel zodra je ergens in de 0.05mm laag dikte of lager komt dan is zelfs een simpel vierkantje al meerderen uren printen.by Frans@France - Algemeen
using the ramps test code will allow testing a single stepper. Just make sure about the orientation and the reference voltageby Frans@France - Reprappers
Have a look at the pololu link. The motor connector must be connected to the a1,a2,b1,b3 pins on the driver. The power supply you connect to VMOT and GND. Two pins from the DUE you connect to the STEP en DIR and the 3.3V or 5V from the DUE to RESET and SLEEP etc If you use a A4988 you can follow this instruction or this link which include some sketch code to control a motor.by Frans@France - RAMPS Electronics
check the orientation of the steppersby Frans@France - Reprappers
if you use a ramps look for the ramps test code.by Frans@France - Reprappers
Why do you want to use 3d printer firmware to control your robot? You don't need that firmware or the RAMPS-FD board to control stepper motors. You only need two pins from your DUE to the stepper driver to control STEP and DIRby Frans@France - RAMPS Electronics
Did you change both drivers? Euro 50,- for a ramps sure you did not placed the "," at the wrong positionby Frans@France - Reprappers
QuotejinxAs for the comment about burning the house down its a standing joke Happy to read that you meant it as an jokeby Frans@France - General
Back on topic: A link to the RAMPS-FD history and a link to the RAMPS-FD v2 board No idea if someone has tried to build that one...by Frans@France - General
Did you modified this RAMPS-FD? If not please read I did a quick search and from what I read you send ASCII codes to the Sciento CS-113 to control it (http://pepijndevos.nl/2012/04/09/sciento-cs-113.html). So why do you need a RAMPS-FD board and 3d printer software? Do you want to make a 3d printer out of it?by Frans@France - RAMPS Electronics
Quotearthurwolf* As soon as those cheap RAMPS, two years ago, started appearing, the number of reports of dead/burnt boards in the community sky-rocketed ( ask anybody who is helping on IRC on a regular basis ). This clearly shows the difference between produced-to-specs RAMPS, and these very cheap RAMPS. But is that because of the cheap board being build so bad they start burn down your house (yby Frans@France - General
Quotejinx YEA no facts at all!!! there's more if you look not all are red but most are. you may want to check your meter LOL you are not even trying to reply to the most important part of my post "...chance...large user base" Read this thread $80.000 laser engraver burning. Should we now not start using them?by Frans@France - General
QuoteaadkoeneI did and it didn't work out. You also replaced the Universal Serial Bus controllers driver? Did you compare the driver versions on your pc and your son's?by Frans@France - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentistbent Z axis screws and/or have them fixed at the top and/or have a rigid coupler with the motor...by Frans@France - Printing
Quotearthurwolfburn-your-house-down RAMPS counterfeits. this is what I wrote when some other person was also trying to "push" smoothie Quote really? I'm sorry but my FUD-o-meter is on fire..... tongue sticking out smiley How much larger is the RAMPS board user group then all other boards combined(!) user group ? So how much bigger is the chance that when problems arise there is a RAMPS boardby Frans@France - General
QuotejinxOf all the cheap RAMPS out there those Red board are the most common, that will burn your house down!!!. most fires I've seen been with those red ones attached with cheap FETS luckily folks been around to put it out "most fires", really? I'm sorry but my FUD-o-meter is on fire..... How much larger is the RAMPS board user group then all other boards combined(!) user group ? So how mucby Frans@France - General
You mentioned the board is using a "fake" FTDI so did you try to load to old FTDI drivers?by Frans@France - Reprappers
Quotedevilmostwanted Ah! I see. I am not sure how the speed really works in slic3r and hence I have not changed the speed settings from default. I have it attached for you to review. In terms of the fan, yes I do have a fan. But for that, as well, I have not touched the settings as I have no idea which setting works and how it works... If you did not change any settings, what setting are you usby Frans@France - Printing
QuoterklaucoQuoteFrans@FranceCould it be because of the acceleration profile at higher printer speeds that it's missing "steps"? Most probably. Unfortunately, it seems that it's a "feature" of the encoder - to provide somehow better feeling for the mouse user - as you move your hand faster, it tends to gradually increase the steps in random numbers to deliver "better feedback". For a mouse user,by Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)