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Have you tried bolting a dremel or router to your RepRap? Can you engrave and drill PCBs? Or cut wood, or ... steel? (Or do you have a commercial mill or CNC router?)
Visual guide to symptoms and causes of bad prints? - 12 years ago
Just wondering is there a visual guide to spot issues of prints so I know what the cause is by looking at a symptom? If not, count this as a suggestion for the idea to be created.by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Finally got it printing, although not well! Too much filament? - 12 years ago
Found the problem. had to uncomment the E_ABSOLUTE in config.h for the teacup firmware... Printing reasonably well now with little calibration...by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Finally got it printing, although not well! Too much filament? - 12 years ago
A picture to tell 1000 wordsby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Finally got it printing, although not well! Too much filament? - 12 years ago
Could it be something to do with the difference in filament size and extruded size (3mm vs 0.35mnm)? From the manuals I read I was of the opinion it should be set to steps per mm per filament into the extruder?by Phizinza - Reprappers
FIXED
Finally got it printing, although not well! Too much filament? - 12 years ago
So after months and months I've got the printer printing. But it pumps out heaps too much filament. So I am printing 5mm cube test. On the first layer (as far as I'm willing to print) it pumps out masses of filament on the corners without moving and then small amounts while moving along the straight runs. So each corner of the print ends up with a 5 to 8mm round lump of ABS. I've tuned theby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
I am new to this, so starting to think I'm missing something here. It's got me completely puzzled. So I've got a ATmega 1284P (sold to me as having AVRDUDE BOOTLOADER on it). But I cannot get Arduino 1.0.1 to upload the teacup firmware. It just keeps saying uploading and when I disconnect the USB it says "timeout" several times in the log. I put the old 644 back in and uploaded the test firmwaby Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
5v standby is working just how it should as to the Gen7 testing guide on the wiki. I've got another ATmega on the way. Might take a couple of weeks though. Couldn't find one in Australia that had a bootloader already.by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
So I got another USB TTL in the post. Plugged it in and still no luck. What I did try just then which did make things work is sorted the PSU's green pin to kick start it. Once I did that Pronterface connected. Could it be something in the electronics that has failed and is stopping the atmega from starting the PSU, or is it likely to be the chip itself that is damaged?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Trying to figure out these thermistor tables...? - 12 years ago
Oh I see.. Thanks for this, I should have of read that more thouroghly!by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Trying to figure out these thermistor tables...? - 12 years ago
Firmware is Teacupby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
Sorry, yes it is Gen7, 1.3.1 I didn't think to try using the reset button last time I tried it with putty. Tried it this time and nothing in the terminal, then tried with PSU plugged in and still nothing. I am pretty sure that before this short out I could see that yellow LED lit when only the USB was plugged in. Now it isn't. Only lights when PSU is plugged in.by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
So I tried it on a USB port on the other side of the computer, COM13, and still no luck there. Question, should I see the yellow LED light when I plug the USB in without the power supply plugged in? I have the power jumper set to the ATX plug. I just seem to remember that I could plug in the USB without the power supply and it would communicate..?by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
Yep, definitively the same port. It was working fine up until I shorted the connection, now it won't connect. I've tried restarting the computer. I've tried different USB port (gives different COM port).by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
I uploaded the flashing test firmware and it was successful, flashed. Re-uploaded the teacup firmware and still no connection. Pronterface log says Traceback (most recent call last): File "pronterface.py", line 1566, in connect File "printcore.pyc", line 76, in connect File "serial\serialwin32.pyc", line 30, in __init__ File "serial\serialutil.pyc", line 260, in __init__ File "serial\by Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Shorted and now can't connect... - 12 years ago
I was taking out one of the StepSticks and forgot the power was still on! I shorted a GND pin on the motor side of the StepStick with either the VDD 5v pin next to it or the DIR, STEP, pins on the ATmega side... Now I can't connect to it in Pronterface (just says connecting...) Sigh... What damage do you think I've done? I did re-upload my firmware using arduino-1.0.1 to test it and it did saby Phizinza - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Trying to figure out these thermistor tables...? - 12 years ago
I've finally got to the point where I'm ready to print but I can't figure out these thermistor tables. I've used the calculator supplied at and come up with these tables below. My extruder thermistor is === EPCOS 100K Thermistor (B57540G0104F000) one My bed thermistor is a 100k 4400b one I got from a local electronics store which as far as I can track down is identical to this one here I don'by Phizinza - Reprappers
Thermistor tables.. Values? - 12 years ago
Looking at calculating a table for a 100k ohm, 4400 beta thermistor. I'm guessing R0 is the thermistors ohm value of around 100k. I'm also assuming T0 is the temperature of when this thermistor reaches the ohm value it is rated at? What I'd like to know is what is R1 and R2? Like how to I measure this or find out what the values are? Thanksby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: teacup firmware steps per meter problem - 12 years ago
A bit more testing and found that two work correctly and the other two don't seem to micro step. All tested in the X axis port, so it isn't the Gen7 1.3 board it is the StepSticks.by Phizinza - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: teacup firmware steps per meter problem - 12 years ago
I had a thought that is might be the stepsticks... So I swapped X and Y's stepsticks around and all of a sudden X moved like crazy and Y moved tiny. Looks like the step stick I have in Y and Z are both screwed some how..? Might need this topic moved to electronics section...by Phizinza - Firmware - mainstream and related support
teacup firmware steps per meter problem - 12 years ago
Hi, I've got a bit of an issue. The calculations I have done myself and the ones I have used off of both equal the same but when I put them in teacup firmware and upload the distances aren't what they should be. I am also using Pronterface's directional buttons. So I have 1.8degree nema17's, 14 tooth gt2 pulley (2mm pitch gt2 belt), 1/16th microstepping on x and y, 1/8th on z. M8x1.25mm threadby Phizinza - Firmware - mainstream and related support
PCB Heat bed need a thermistor? Gen7 - 12 years ago
Using gen7 1.3.1 electronics, wiring up my PCB heatbed, wondering if I need thermistor? Can't find a definite answer on google. And where would people suggest mounting this thermistor if I do need it? And, is the thermistor going to be the same type used in the hotend? Thanks!by Phizinza - General
Re: Endstops, what side to mount them? - 12 years ago
atthemomentI'vegotthestandardtoolargemechanicalendstopmountswithasingleboltI'vealsoamjustusingcardboardgluedontobreakthemI'llfixupthemountsandcardboardwhenIgettheprinterworking..by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Endstops, what side to mount them? - 12 years ago
NumberSix Wrote: > What you print depends on what your endstop looks > like. Is there a picture of your endstop out there > somewhere? Those are the endstops I am using. So if I understand correctly because the Y axis moves the bed the endstop has to go on the back so that the print head is on the most front edge of the print bed when at "home"?by Phizinza - Reprappers
Endstops, what side to mount them? - 12 years ago
So I'm building a Prusa with Gen7 1.3.1. What side of the machine do I mount the endstops? I've decided the y motor is on the front. So would the y endstop be on the front too? would the x be on the right or left? and the z on the top or bottom? Also, how does it work with only 3 endstops? How does it know not to move to far away from the endstop? Thank you! P.S. can anyone show me how they mby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Wire size for NEMA 17's, Current draw? - 12 years ago
My research on the 29oz motors I have says they can draw up to 1.2amps. CAT5 is rated 0.577amp per conductor. If I pair up the 8 wires to make 4, then I guess it is just under and might do..? Just thought it would be a cheap, clean and easy way to wire the motors...by Phizinza - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Wire size for NEMA 17's, Current draw? - 12 years ago
What is the current draw of a NEMA 17? Can I use CAT5 cable or similar to wire the motors? Or should I use something larger?by Phizinza - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Anyone using PL2303MDL USB adapter with auto reset? - 12 years ago
Hi, I have bought a PL2303MDL for my USB adapter and found some information about setting it up to auto reset. I am using 1.3.1 gen 7 electronics. I have attached the information as an image. Looking at the diagram I am a bit confused because pin one of the Arduino on the gen7 board goes to Z_MAX plug..?by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Prusa Project Log - 12 years ago
So I haven't updated this in a while but while I'm here sick suck on the couch I may as well do something semi productive. I received the Gen7 electronics back about 4 weeks ago and spent a couple of nights assembling it. I've still yet to do the testing or powering it up but I'll get around to it... I received the order of hardware parts, there was some mix up with their website not being updaby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Print top and bottom plates on Prusa - 12 years ago
Thank you for the reply. Do I need a top and bottom plate as well as the head bed? Or can the heat bed be the top plate?by Phizinza - General Mendel Topics
Print top and bottom plates on Prusa - 12 years ago
I am assembling my Prusa and wondering what is best to do with the print plates. I'm going to be using a heat bed and sheet of glass on top of that. So do I need the top thick sheet plate or just use the heat bed? Whats best to make it out of? I have 3mm ally plate, 5mm ply wood or 12mm MDF handy. I can go get a sheet of plastic to use if that would be better..? Cheers, Phizby Phizinza - General Mendel Topics