Thanks, yeah I’m looking for the frame that supports the heated bed. To be honest I think I can just print some parts to extend the frame, or perhaps find a heated bed with the right hole spacing.by JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I'm running an i3 clone (Sgraber frame and bed support with i3 Rework plastic parts) and I'm looking to upgrade the heated bed to 220mm x 220mm. Are there any bed support frames out there that will fit 220mmm x 220mm heatbeds? Cheers Joeby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yep, mine was the thermistor (or most likely the cable from the thermistor that goes past the hotend). Changed it yesterday and temps are solid now. Glad it's fixed. I made sure to give the hotend a wide berth in terms of cable tidying.by JoeK1973 - RAMPS Electronics
I have the same issue, almost exactly the same. Bed temperature is rock solid, but hotend varies between stable and a bit wild. Can sometimes throw THERMAL RUNAWAY errors. I've upped the time period and temp variation allowances in configuration_adv.h in the hope that will help prevent failed prints. I've also changed RAMPS boards, I'm using a new 1.4 board, with a 1.5 and a 1.6 to try also. I'by JoeK1973 - RAMPS Electronics
I'll try 1.1.7 and 1.1.8 as well and see where it stops working.by JoeK1973 - Firmware - Marlin
Just as a follow-up: I didn't get anywhere with this issue on Marlin 1.1.9, so I thought I'd give an earlier version of Marlin a go and hey presto! 1.1.6 works just fine! Oh well, just glad it's functional againby JoeK1973 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi all, I'm getting the same issue here - I'm on Marlin 1.1.9 and here's my debug log: G29 Machine Type: Cartesian Probe: FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE Probe Offset X:20 Y:0 Z:-2.75 (Right-Center & Below Nozzle) Auto Bed Leveling: BILINEAR (disabled) current_position=(155.00, 25.00, 5.75) : set_probe_deployed deploy: 1 do_probe_raise(5.00) >>> do_blocking_move_to(155.00, 25.00, 7.75) <&by JoeK1973 - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust Since you say the endstop works check you Z max feedrate, if this is to high it can do this. Thanks, Dust, I'll check this tonight. Although I'm pretty sure I set it to 2 as per my previous RAMPS board settings. Will confirm.by JoeK1973 - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, As the title of the thread suggests, I'm having trouble getting the Z-Axis to move down. When I try to move the Z axis it will move up. This is a brand new board, and I've also upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 as well (probably a mistake to do it at the same time lol). I can't work out whether this is related to the board or Marlin. I have a good idea of what I'm doing - I built thby JoeK1973 - RAMPS Electronics
Hi, I've built a similar, but not identical printer to you. Can I assume you're building a 1.5 Rework? My printer started with a cheap frame laser cut to the S.Graber design that was going cheap in a closing down sale. I paired this with an i3 Rework printed parts kit bought from eBay. This was the first mistake lol. The issue with my frame/printer choice is that the frame has slots for the laby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi everyone, Just looking to replace my hotend cooling fan with a 40mm Noctua fan. Now I see there are two variants - one which is 10mm deep and one which is 20mm deep. Which one do people run here? For info, I have an i3 Mk2 style extruder running on an i3-style RepRap DIY printer. Cheers Joeby JoeK1973 - Reprappers
Quoteandornot QuoteJoeK1973 Looks great! I would definitely be interested if it is possible to make one for the standard MK2/3 heated bed (213*213). Although it should be self-evident that placing a piece of metal on a hot surface makes the piece of metal hot too, o_lampe is right. People can be silly. Does this bed require the corners cutting off? Yes it does. I have the Mk3 Heatbed. It's 21by JoeK1973 - General
Looks great! I would definitely be interested if it is possible to make one for the standard MK2/3 heated bed (213*213). Although it should be self-evident that placing a piece of metal on a hot surface makes the piece of metal hot too, o_lampe is right. People can be silly.by JoeK1973 - General
I'm carrying out this mod on my printer at the moment so this is a very useful topic for me! I've used the info in this thread as a guide: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/smart-fan-control-upgrade-using-rrd-fan-extender.16948/ Running 5 fans might be a bit of a challenge with the RRD Fan Extender. The part cooling fans can both be wired into D9 and the RAMPS cooling fan can go onby JoeK1973 - Reprappers
Quoteandornot I will launching a system for the duplicator 3i would this fit your machine? The bed size will be 220mm x 220mm with 15mm chamfered corners plus 10mm overhang for a lifting tab. The kit will be under £40. I'm not sure. My bed is 214mm x 214mm (standard Mk2 / Mk3 heated bed). So there would be a 3mm overlap on each edge. Not sure if the screws would be fouled even with the chamferedby JoeK1973 - General
Congratulations and thank you for everything you have done to found and further the RepRap project. And thankyou for printing the part I ordered through 3D Hubs some time ago (still working great)! It was very interesting to come and see your machines - it certainly opened my eyes to the variety of other machines (Ormerod, Deltas etc).by JoeK1973 - General
Quoteandornot I cannot see how this is going to work as 304 stainless steel is not magnetic. I have a system also available but initially i will launch it for 220mmx220mm beds, to fit my duplicator i3. Beware of what neodymium sheet you use as the material is only good for 70 to 80 degrees, the material can be sourced for 130 degrees plus. Haha, yes you're right. I realised this too late unfortuby JoeK1973 - General
Quoteo_lampe QuoteMake sure the couplers between the lead screws and steppers are installed correctly (the motor shaft and lead screw should only be inserted enough for the set screws to grab) I've placed a 4.5mm steelball between stepper shaft and leadscrew ( both are touching the ball ). That way the weight and inertia of the X-carrier can't compress the coupler, but it can still flex. Thatby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe I'd be concerned about the PEI sheet cracking, rather than overstretching the steel sheet?! What build plate would you suggest? Is Buildtak more flexible?by JoeK1973 - General
Hope you don't mind but I thought this thread was a good place to post what I'm thinking of doing - a magnetic flexible build plate (These prices are based on a 215mm x 225mm sheet for a 214x214 MK2 heater bed) I've bought a custom-shaped laser-cut 0.5mm 304 grade stainless steel sheet from LaserMaster (a smidge under £10). Send them a drawing of the shape you need by email (or I think you canby JoeK1973 - General
Hi all, I'm designing this Garmin GPS mount for my bike - I'm not worried just yet about how to attach it to the bike, I'm concentrating on attaching the GPS computer to the mount. Anyway, my design is attached. My question is - how do I print it? The upper lip is quite an overhang (2mm maybe?) and if I flip it then the bottom plate would be at the top and require support. Any advice welcome!by JoeK1973 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuoteRoberts_Clif Yes it is single start Brill, thanks for the info, reassuring to knowby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRoberts_Clif I purchased a 3D Printer with theT8-8 lead screws, and found that if you have any device close to the 3D Printer the makes a vibration the Z-Axis of the T8-8 will turn while printer is Off. I upgraded to a T8-2 ( 8mm and only 2 mm Rise per revelation) This is a video of a T8-8 lead screw, you will see that just gravity will cause the nut to fall. T8-8 Lead-screw Drop with Grby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, I built my i3 Rework with 8mm threaded rod as it was what I had at the time - now I've got the hang of it, I'd like to reduce Z-wobble (which is what I think I'm getting - visible horizontal ripples every 1mm or so (actually about 1.25mm which is the pitch of the threaded rod perhaps?) So I'm looking at carrying out a leadscrew upgrade. I've got 8mm single-start leadscrews complete withby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Looking at online reviews and Youtube videos, the product looks great so I ordered some on the 30th April. Unfortunately the retailer doesn't seem so good, still no change in my order status Hopefully this will be remedied but starting to lose faith. Will be looking elsewhere soon.by JoeK1973 - General
Hi everyone, I've recently built my i3 clone, utilisng the i3 MK2 extruder assembly. My issues is that the hotend (specifically the top part where the filament goes in) can rotate slightly in the extruder assembly, even when fully tightened down. I've tried sanding down the extruder assembly cover to help clamp the hotend better, but this doesn't seem to have helped much. Just wondering if anyby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe Interesting, that the Vref potmeter still has a meaning, although you've set the current by SPI in FW. I guess SPI wasn't connected? You know, I don't think setting the current in Marlin has any effect when it's installed like mine (CFG0 > CFG3 disconnected and not wired to SPI pins on RAMPS). The main thing for me is that it has achieved what I wanted, which is a much quieter Yby JoeK1973 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Just for information for anyone who's thinking of doing something similar, I installed one of the drivers in the Y axis on my RAMPS yesterday. I desoldered the CFG 0, 1, 2, and 3 pins (SDO, SDI, SCK, & CS) and placed them facing up in case I want to try SpreadCycle in the future. With CFG 1 & CFG 2 in the 'Open' state, I think I've got it in StealthChop mode now. In Marlin, in config.hby JoeK1973 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quoteo_lampe I have 8mm and 12mm diameter sensors. To improve senitivity of the 8mm sensor, I wrapped a strip of thick aluminum foil around the lower part and then adjusted the foils height until the sensor just doesn't trigger anymore. That added another 1mm to the trigger height. (YMMV). Depending on the thickness of the aluminum bed, it might work out for you. But 3mm glass is a tough task.by JoeK1973 - General
Hi everyone, I've got an inductive sensor fitted to my printer but it struggles to sense the aluminium heater bed through 3mm glass plate. Has anyone ran their inductive sensors off more than 12v? Do you get a greater sensing distance? And are there any handy calculators for voltage divider networks? Cheers Joeby JoeK1973 - General