Quotedc42 Does the noise go away if you loosen the clamps that secure the bearings to the bed support? It could be that the clamps are trying to rotate the bearings out of alignment. Hmm possible, but I cannot imagine. I recently changed back to LM12UU just before recording. Therefore the bearings were printed so the noise would have been changed if I am not wrong. Maybe the belt tension is tooby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, my y-axis makes terrible noises, but why? All bearings have been renewed. Any ideas? Best regards, Svenby Treito - Ormerod
Thanks. That was the fact I was afraid for. The reason is that the connector at the hot-end failed again so I cannot print the parts for my CoreXY. The Ormerod 2 is broken with the z-nut-trap, a completely new error. So I will have to keep this double wires what does not make me lucky.by Treito - Duet
Hello, how much current can the connector handle on each pin? I would like to replace the 4 wires with only 2 wires, but one vendor claims it with 3.0 Amps, but I would end up at about 3.4 Amps. This is not possible or is it? Best regards, Svenby Treito - Duet
The link did not tell which connections I could use with Duet 0.6 or 0.85 for servo output.by Treito - Duet
First of all, you shouldn't run the motors at a muh higher current as needed. The first step would be to measure the temperature as feeling is very inaccurate. You don't tell what kind of printer you use, but I simply would guess that the y-axis is moving not as smooth as the x-axis and therefore more force is needed to move it.by Treito - Duet
I exchanged the cable of the motor. Surprisingly it seems that this was the only fault with that cable, so maybe there was an issue with the print (too much plastic?) so the hotend got stuck. Still strange is that I could print the 3DBenchy without fault. Speed factor? A square can be printed faster in theory.by Treito - Ormerod
It should have been a box. Strange thing is that it only happened at the beginning.by Treito - Ormerod
Hello, both of my Ormerods are broken. My 2 urgently needs a new z-nut-trap as the nut is turning over. However my 1 is not able to print, because the x-motor skips and I do not know why. I measured the cable and it is fine. I will replace it, but I am out of hope. I also raised the motor current. The x-arm is moving freely. The fun part is that I still can print a 3DBenchy, but I guess this wasby Treito - Ormerod
Maybe you should catch the x-arm at the opposite direction. I think the additional weight could be too high so the Ormerod may even tip over. It sounds interesting and if this works for you I may change my Ormerod 2 in that way.by Treito - Ormerod
Thanks for the answer. To be honest I was a little bit too fast. I have PM contact with a guy from a German group who wants to build a CoreXY after a given hardware. However we discussed the advantages and disadvantages of the controller boards. I told him that for the Duets there is "only" the PanelDue solution and not this simple LCD which you often find with Ramps/ RADDS. So I did not want toby Treito - Duet
Good morning. many thanks for the replies and the offer. I cleaned the arm with brake cleaner (without Acetone) like I always do. However the shim is sticking but it is weak. After I already got one failure I would prefer to use the metal ruler instead. On the other hand the Ormerod 2 uses another kind of bearing which seems to run better. During the assembly I recognized that the x-carriage wilby Treito - Ormerod
Hi Dave, I am afraid that the shim does not stick very well. At the moment I am maintaining the y-axis and the heated bed of my Ormerod 2 (The Ormerod 1 has problems with one stepper motor) and one end is nearly getting separated from the aluminium. Best regards, Svenby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, what is the status of the support for the PanelOne? Best regards, Svenby Treito - Duet
At least it's not very cheap and the MK8 filament gear is much easier to get. It's only a thought, but the original hobbed insert is therefore no option for my own construction as I am unsure if I publish it. First it has to function well and first feedback on the design is very different. BTT: Are there any clues if the breakage is less if the filament would be bend less inside the Extruder?by Treito - Ormerod
As the hobbed insert is hardly available I am considering designing an Extruder with a MK8 insert. Maybe the Extruder also should be placed onto the top of the Z-Axis so there is no extra bend needed. On the other hand it sounds more than plausible that the spools with a very small inner diameter caused the problem. Additionally the Extruder bends them into another direction which could cause a wby Treito - Ormerod
Do you have your optimized Extruder version somewhere available?by Treito - Ormerod
I would like to give the DryLin N a try. They are cheap, "Made in Germany", easy to mount on an extrusion. They are used at a bq hephestos 2 for the z-axis. The manufacturer names this as a refernce. They are probably very calm, but I am still unsure what is causing my ghosting. I need to fix my OM1, since my OM2 is also broken, but it can print with some limitations, but I have no idea if theseby Treito - Ormerod
I will try both styles of sliding waggons. The rails themselves are the expensive parts but at least cheaper than other type of rails and to me they look more stable.by Treito - Ormerod
The linear sliding rail is partly used by the bq hephestos 2 and this seems to be a very good printer.by Treito - Ormerod
I was considering this one: And these ones:by Treito - Ormerod
I will use how you call ACME rods. The company where I can get the linear sliding rails also offers a special nut made of plastic with zero backslash.The cost for one nut is about 22€ so that is not very much.by Treito - Ormerod
But there is your problem: I got reports that machines were running at 6000 mm/min and even more (up to 9000 mm/min, Prusa I3) that is why I decided to build a CoreXY where the main motion is done by the head. I would like to reach a speed of 7500 mm/min maximum. I also decided to use linear sliding rails. I have no clues yet how a bowden Extruder compares to a direct driven Extruder with the saby Treito - Ormerod
But in this case you move the printed part and everybody is crying that you should not move it. Besides that I would guess that the moved mass of the printer table is more than a setup with two Extruders as long as you use a small motor. I wanted to use 48mm depth motors for my Extruders, but if I have to use a direct drive system I really should rethink this. The only way to be sure would be toby Treito - Ormerod
Is there anywhere the modified version available with the bigger radius so the filament would be less bent?by Treito - Ormerod
Now I have the same problem. My filament broke after leaving it roughly 36 hours inside the Extruder. It was an eSun red PLA spool (not PLA+). The spool is a little bit older (about one year).by Treito - Ormerod
On a German Facebook group I got a hint that I should reduce the accelerations. I am preparing now a new test print. At least it sounds plausible except for the increased ghosting. The results may affect my new design. My first thought was to reduce the moved mass as much as possible, but if the Bowden style Extruder limits the printing speed that much I would have to use direct drive Extruders.by Treito - Ormerod
Decreasing the layer height to 0.1 mm increased the ghosting dramatically. Now I am confused.by Treito - Ormerod
So yesterday I tried to remount my OM1 but the y-bracket failed. The first print with 30mm/s also failed because of warping and especially overextrusion. The second print with 45mm/s suffers from ghosting. It doesn't matter because it's a part for the printer. I will print the bracket this evening using a layer height of only 0.1 mm instead of 0.22 mm. Do you really think that the ghosting is cauby Treito - Ormerod