I am in the planning stages of converting my printer to work with 1.75mm filament instead of 3mm. I looked into just refitting my J-head with a new PTFE liner, but found that wasn't feasible. So now I'm looking into replacing the entire hotend. So that opens up the options quite a bit. First, I need to decide on the hotend itself. I kind of like the J-heads. They've been very reliable for mby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
How large of an object are you printing? Depending on your cooling settings, slic3r will slow things down if the layer takes too little time to print. This usually shows itself when you get to the sparse infill layers. The cooling settings let you specify a minimum layer time. If the time is less than that, slic3r will slow down the speed in an attempt to make the layer last that amount of tiby jbernardis - Slic3r
I'm not sure what you're asking. The Add button in the slic3r GUI allows you to import an STL file. If you want to slice from the command line, you can specify the stl file on the command line. Here is the template command line I use in my host program: command = /home/jeff/Slic3r/bin/slic3r --load "%config%" "%stl%" -o "%slicegcode%" Note that you will need to include a config file. Slic3rby jbernardis - Slic3r
I was reading a tutorial written by richrap and he mentioned craftware as a slicer. I had never heard of it, so I did some googling and it led me here. I downloaded and and have it running on my PC. My problem is that it's only for windows/mac, and I am using Linux (don't talk to me about wine - it's at best a band aid). That aside, though, I found it to be pretty impressive. I don't know hoby jbernardis - Experimental
Measure the resistance of your heat bed in ohms and divide it into 12 (assuming you are using 12 volts). The quotient will be the amperage that the bed will draw. EDIT: I misread - I thought you said heated bed. The same formula applies to the hotend though.by jbernardis - Controllers
I have 3 j-head hot ends - the official ones from hotends.com. They are all made for 3mm filament, and that's obviously the filament size I've been using. I'd like to transition to 1.75 for a variety of reasons,and I'm wondering if it's possible to just replace the PTFE liner inside the hot end to convert to 1.75mm? Something I read somewhere - I can't remember exactly where - seemed to indicaby jbernardis - Reprappers
Use M106 and M107. See here.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
As gordon says, you specify motherboard type in your marlin configuration. I think MB33 has D9 available as a fan port, and MB34 uses D9 for the second extruder. If you configure for a second extruder, note that there are no other available MOSFET circuits to connect a fan; you will need to put together a small circuit yourself to connect a fan.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
I would suspect some sort of looseness on one of the axes. Make sure your belts are tight and there is no play in either the X or Y carriage.by jbernardis - Printing
QuoteSteveRoy Don't buy a cheap J-Head knock-off from eBay and expect it to work like a genuine J-Head from Makerfarm. The actual official source for j-heads is hotends.comby jbernardis - Reprappers
Yes. D9 should not be used for cooling the ramps itself. The output from that pin is under g code control and should be used for cooling the printed object. To cool the ramps itself, either take 12 volts directly from your psu or use the two pins near diode D2 as previously mentionedby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
According to the documentation, you need 2014.QX which apparently is a development versionby jbernardis - OpenSCAD
QuoteTraumflug That's great, and I see plenty of opportunities more useful than reinventing something which works perfectly already. I don't want to get into an argument here, but I just want to point out that the word you chose to use - perfectly - is open to interpretation. To me, pronterface was adequate, but it wasn't perfect. I found myself too many times saying I wish it did this or I wiby jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
QuoteWiggie So true. I just learned that it is very important to remove the filament after you finished printing, otherwise you have a challenge cleaning the nozzle Good idea about the print for the partner. I never remove the filament unless I am changing colors. You just need to change colors while things are hot.by jbernardis - Reprappers
QuoteTraumflug And the point of writing yet another interpreter is ... ? Some people - myself included - enjoy writing code. Among other things, my reprap hobby is a creative outlet for writing some interesting software. I did the same thing myself. I started with a G Code interpreter, realized I could easily have it follow along with an active print and then just started adding buttons and sby jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
yes - slicer extrudes the exact amount it retracts. You CAN tell it to extrude extra, but it is not a good idea because your are basically losing track of filament when you do that. Incidentally, this can be easily verified by looking at the G Code. You will see an extrusion number exactly equal to the retraction numbers. The exact numbers may be different because there could be an axis reseby jbernardis - Slic3r
215 is a bit high based on my own experience. I generally print PLA at 185. Do you have a cooling fan on the printed object. I have one one the x carriage pointed downwards at an angle at the point of printing. It makes a dramatic difference with PLA.by jbernardis - Printing
The heated bed - and ONLY the heated bed - is on the 11 AMP circuit. Given this, if you move to another terminal, it is most likely only being protected with the 5 AMP fuse. Your bed will pop this fuse repeatedly.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
I'm actually in the process of moving back to the spool approach - for 3 reasons. 1) This approach is a nightmare to string, 2) unless I kept the system under extremely tight tension, I found that the string would pop out of the grooves too often, and 3) When I hit the end of travel, the string would slip. I know that I should never reach the end of travel, but if it would slip under these circby jbernardis - Developers
One other potential culprit that we haven't talked about is the heated bed itself. Many of us (myself included) have them mounted on top of springs. Even though the springs in my case are fairly rigid, it's still possible that the bed itself could be doing the shaking on Y axis moves. I like having the springs while I am still adjusting my Z height, but maybe I could come up with a more rigidby jbernardis - General
Yes - Mine does this too. It started with 1.1.7, but I still see it in 1.2.1. For me it only seems to happen on bridging layers, and it usually happens at one end of a bridge or the other. It will draw half of the perimeter, up to the beginning or end of a bridge, then pick up and move elsewhere, then do it again. On some large objects, it seems to me as if I've seen it segment the perimeterby jbernardis - Slic3r
I have significant stringing whenever I slice with Cura. I don't know what it is. I have basically the same settings in Cura that I do in Slic3r, but Cura strings constantly, and slic3r strings rarely. I've even examined the G code and can't find an obvious difference between the two slicers that would account for the difference in stringing. The stringing and poor bridging are what are keepiby jbernardis - Printing
I'm still battling this artifact, although to a much lesser extent than initially. I am absolutely convinced that thejollygrimreaper hit the nail on the head with the last post. In addition to the suggestions he has, I think it can also be mitigated with mechanical improvements to the printer. I am in the planning stages of some improvements to my Y carriage to reduce the moment of inertia.by jbernardis - General
The power supply photo does not show 2 12V20A circuits - it only shows 1, but since it's 20A, it's all you need. Just connect the same power supply output to both RAMPS connectors. make sure you wire them in PARALLEL.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
I dont know the procedure you followed, but bed level with respect to the earth is unimportant. The bed needs to be "level" with the print head. You should home the head to several locations around the bed, and home Z only. then make sure you have equal distance between the head and the bed. Adjust bed level until all are the same distance, and then adjust the Z endstop until you get the distby jbernardis - Printing
Have you actually tried printing one of these objects. I noticed the exact same thing with Slic3r 1.1.7, but the end result is that the support works extremely well. If you notice, the support that prints "between" two layers of the object is printed at an intervening height. Basically, the support is not being held bound to the layer height you have chosen. My experience is that this is a goby jbernardis - Slic3r
Do you have the proper number of jumpers installed on your electronics board? How many steps/revolution are you putting into your steps/millimeter calculation? Any time there is a difference between expected distance and actual distance that is a power of 2, suspect the configuration of the jumpers.by jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
On a RAMPS card at least, there are jumper pins beneath the stepper drivers. The normal configuration is to have all 3 sets of pins with a jumper installed. This gives 1/16 microstepping which, basically, turns your 200 steps/rev stepper into one that has 3200 steps/rev. The number of steps figures into the steps per millimeter configuration. Each combination of jumpers gives a power of 2 mulby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
They generally only have a min sensor, but they also generally know the limits of travel - the firmware is usually set up with the size of the bed. Either the firmware is not correctly configured, or the microstepping jumpers do not agree with the configuration. If you tell your firmware that you are using microstepping, but do not install the jumpers, the carriage will go beyond the limits ofby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
What do you mean your extruder diameter is 1.75? Are you saying you have extrusion width set to 1.75? Just because you have 1.75mm filament? The diameter of your filament has nothing whatsoever to do with your extrusion width. Your extrusion width is more determined by your layer height. although it is limited by your nozzle opening size too. As an example, I have a 0.5mm nozzle. My layby jbernardis - Printing