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Printing issues ...
I wondered if anyone had advice about the best practice for switch from one type of plastic to another. The question comes from an issue I ran into this week. I print in PLA but wanted to try,and have a need to print in ABS. So I pulled out the PLA and put in the ABS and turned the heat up. After my ABS run, I switched back to PLA. Shortly after my hotend started giving me problems. It started to
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cat.farmer
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General
Looks like z wooble. Changing the bearing must have increaae your z tollerance, and now it is transfering to the print.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Might be a USB problem. Try a 6 foot or less sheilded USB cable and Keep it away from the power supply.
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
Do they both work separately? If so ot may be your current setting on the driver.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
It looks like it is connected correctly. Do you hear the relay click when you turn on the heatbed? If not make sure you are getting 12volts at D8. If so then check that you have 12 volts on the relay going to the heatbed. You can also disconnect the heatbead, turn on to enable the relay and check the contacts, with an ohm meter, there should be no resistance, turn off the heatbed and you should h
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
You should also check your connectors at the board and motor. I had this issue when one of the pins pushed out of the connector from the plastic housing. Could also be you broke one of the wires loose.
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cat.farmer
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General
Sounds like your acceleration is too high. That setting should be in the same area as the steps.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Cool, glad i could help. Just to finish up this thread..
The end stops are needed to let your machine know where all of its parts are. When you home your device(assuming you are at endstop_min) sets your printer to position 0,0,0. It then counts the steps to the next position. Without a starting position you machine will never work correctly.
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
Thanks sublime. It will take me about 3 more times reading through that to take it all in.
With all that math ..is this considered the end all equations to good prints or just a starting point to find what works best? I ask because i have been slowly trying to tune my printer, and i'm tring to understand what makes a good print, i can get a good looking peice of plastic off the bed, but that do
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cat.farmer
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General
Any chance the boards are shorting against the frame? I don't know of any reason why you would get random false positive readings. Maybe try reloading the firmware.
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
What style end stops? Switch, optical, hall? Does the printer home correctly when you manually home?
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
The only way i see is to make a block that mounts to the screw holes on the extruder and mounts to the x carriage. Or sell that one and buy the correct set up.
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cat.farmer
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General
If the machanics are all ok, belts tight,pullys,good carriage movement, then it is in your steps per mm setting. Print a cube measure the x and y and that will tell you which is off.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
#define MAX_STEP_FREQUENCY 30000 // Max step frequency
Slow that down.. cut it in half, then work back up, or if 15000, doesnt work keep going lower.
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cat.farmer
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General
May be worth trying a different slicer program. I just started using Cura, after using slic3r for months. It improved my print speed and made slight print improvements.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Ok i see your point.. i was thinking of that emergency, when something goes horribly wrong, and the print is ruined anyway.
I had to laugh a little, i am a printer guy, i have over 3000 printers i over see for my work, your 2d analogy was a little close to home, or maybe i need to talk to our printer vender to see if they can add a kill button...
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
I would be worried about shattering the glass doing it that way, you woild create a very cold small spot on a hot sheet of glass. The quick shrinking of that spot might be enough to pop it.
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cat.farmer
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General
I completely Agree with you, but there is no cure for stupid. I deal with subpar components all the time. Cap’s mostly, the Chinese are very good at putting in under rated or just rated components that fail over a short time. but then as consumers we buy their products, because they are cheaper, and they are cheaper because of the subpar components. We the consumer just needs to be aware of this,
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
Not sure what firmware you are using, but there is a list of the G codes in The readme file in the Marlin folder.
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cat.farmer
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General
Yep change the TRUE to FALSE. The should read as low (L) until they are pressed. I think most switches in repraps are wired to the normally closed and sets the firmware HIGH when tripped. At least that is what i read while designing and building mine..I could be wrong.
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
The only way to know what is going on is to get a program called wireshark..its free.. it will capture the network traffic and you can see what is being transfered. I will say that that is a lot of traffic for what is really a small amont of data, but it also depends on the protocol being used. I'm not sure of what protocols the RP uses or accepts. I would guess there is alot of send and reply tr
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cat.farmer
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General
QuoteCefiar
Yes a PSU switch will do this, but you need to make sure that the switch you use is capable. Most of the cheaper E-Stop switches are not really designed for either high current DC or mains AC.
You really want to kill the DC side of the PSU (completely disconnect it), as the PSU will take a small time to shut down if you disconnect the AC side. If you're using RAMPS, you at least coul
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotebobc
Checking RAMPS-FD v2, I realize that we have adopted a PCB layout compatible with a 4 pin connector, but signals in different order. I wonder if it is a good idea to match the Makerbot pin out, as it seems to be the closest thing to a standard? There is still an issue with polarity, but at least you could make a straight 4 wire cable.
Bobc, just my 2cents, but i would make the pin out
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cat.farmer
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Controllers
You could try the mini blade auto fuse. Not sure with the 24 v if they would be useable in you applacation, but they are small and easy to replace being blade style, the footprint is no bigger then the ptc's.
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cat.farmer
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Controllers
Retraction is set in the slicer software, or for manual retaction, in pronterface. It should not change while you are printing. Not sure what would cause it to change.
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cat.farmer
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General
I'm not a splinter user, but try the m119 command in pronterface to check the status of the end stops. Run m119 and then press the switch and see if the status changes. Thety should read triggered when pressed.
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
Ok so if you want to stop motor and heaters. Wouldn't a switch to the power supply acomplish this? Or is there more to this kill switch, that I'm missing?
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
Things to check are the
v ref on the drivers
Feedrate in the firmware
End stops are fuctioning properly
Motors are wired correctly.
Power supply is working correctly
The z sounds like endstops, the x and y could one or more of the above.
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cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics