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There are no bridges there. I'd say the travel speed at 30 is way too low; gives too much time for nozzle to drain (esp PLA).
Also looks like retraction is turned off. Need to be on; I'm using 2mm at 20 mm/s.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I personally started with a single extruder (non Replikeo) for the exact reason of not wanting too much to go wrong.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
The infill is absorbing the excess plastic, so it is not building up there.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Did not see the different Z heights. You are right, it is changing. Almost certainly something changing heights in a regular pattern, like the heat bed. This would be easily visible on the lcd readout.
The holes however are in regular positions, so likely that the infill at those locations is affecting it.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Also being only one direction in the Y, it might be a binding of the motion in one direction.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I have slic3r and marlin and SD card, and sometimes my extruder would start off in reverse. Solution was to reset the controller board before every print.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Really looks like extruder temperature variation causing more flow as the temp raises, then less flow as the temp drops, and when temp is lowest, there is the least flow and you get the holes.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Also a chance that it is extruder temp variation.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Sounds like interference in the cables going to the SD card.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I just had this problem, and just solved it. It's noise getting into the SD card ribbon cables.
I put a ferrite ring around the both the ribbon cables (together), and the problem vanished.
by
RRuser
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Printing
No, but sending too low power might.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I do it in Slic3r here: Printer Settings > Extruder 1 > Retraction > Speed
Retraction acceleration is in Marlin; mine is set to 3000:
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
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RRuser
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Printing
M190 S
Does this mean that you would not put your desired temp in the start code, but would put it in the slicer settings instead?
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Try retracting more.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I had to slow my Wades retraction down to 20 mm/s or else it would vibrate and not move.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Also try setting all the advanced settings to 0
by
RRuser
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Printing
Also it looks to be after a travel across that open gap. So maybe retracting more before travelling will help.
by
RRuser
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Printing
Also could just get a portable floor heater, and point it at the printer.
by
RRuser
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Printing
There is a good youtube video of the slic3r settings.
by
RRuser
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Printing
I've always wondered which command had priority: Start Gcode, or the slicer setting. I guess the Start does.
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Also don't forget you can make it retract on layer change, which will reduce the seam.
by
RRuser
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Slic3r
Try 1000.
Your motor gear might be slipping on the filament and not grabbing it.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Looks good. I wish it were available when I was searching because there were no i3 steel kits available in the U.S. then.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteyou mean metric threaded rods vs ACME leadscrews
Yes. At least, 4-start leadscrews. They rotate down by gravity when the Z motors power off.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
Disable the steppers and move it by hand. If if moves easily, then the problem is the drivers.
Try plugging the motor into a different driver.
by
RRuser
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Prusa i3 and variants
I see... using dual drivers and endstops allows both Z to be homed.
I guess that's why I like threaded Z rods, because they don't lose position when powered off, and I have not had the Z's get out of sync ever.
by
RRuser
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Firmware - mainstream and related support