I will check my hobbed bolt, but right now it is printing just fine after the filament spent several hours in my food dehydrator at 60 degrees C. Seems to have been moisture after all, my first test was not long enough to dry the filament completely. I have to be more careful and not leave the PLA spool sitting on the printer overnight. .by Karlberg - Printing
I use Swarzkopf´s Got2b glued blasting freeze hair spray on my mirror and I have printed objects filling the entire mirror with only slight lifting in the corners. I clean it up after ca 3-5 prints with window cleaner (ammonia based) and put on a new thin layer.by Karlberg - General Mendel Topics
Hi, Can you attach the g-code, it is easier to spot the error there.by Karlberg - General Mendel Topics
Yes, I have a fan directed at the PEEK part of the J-head. What I have noticed is that when the flow is slow there is always a string of bubbles in the cleas PLA coming out of the nozzle, when the bubbles stop the flow returns to normal again. Could this be a sign of moisture in the PLA? Maybe I should try to dry the filament for longer and slightly hotter, last time I dried it for 2h in ca 50 deby Karlberg - Printing
I am using hall effect sensors and small neodynium magnets as end stops, works perfectly!by Karlberg - Controllers
Drying the filament did not help at all. What I have noticed is that when I remove the filament from the hotend the filament ends with a distinct bulb, see attached photo. I think that there is a gap between the brass and the PTFE, will disassemble my J-head to investigate.by Karlberg - Printing
I have a similar problem with a Wades extruder, but that is only when I try to print with soft PLA and it occurs after just 2-3 minutes of printing.by Karlberg - Printing
My red PLA is from reprapworld.com so that could be the cause of this, but I also have a clear PLA purchased from 2printbeta.de with the same issue. Have you tried to dry out your filament? I will try to dry a meter of each filament in the oven tonight and see if that solves the problem. I store my filament spools in a sealed container and with a desiccant and the winter climate is really dry indby Karlberg - Printing
I have a problem with my J-head 0.5mm, the flow of plastic is not even but comes in pulses, rather long pulses but very detrimental for the print quality. Sometimes the flow is normal for around 20s and after that stops completely for 5-10s... When I extrude with pronterface there is a pause before the plastic starts to flow and during the extrusion as well. Any ideas? I have tried to raise the tby Karlberg - Printing
Jag landade på drygt 5000kr men då shoppade jag runt en hel del.by Karlberg - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
Yep, sounds like a brown-out problem, can you set the extruder pololu potentiometer a tad lower? You could set all your pololu pots a tad lower... Also, when I ran a cable for my Dremel across the RAMPS USB cable I had an instant printer shut down when I started the Dremel...by Karlberg - Reprappers
When I had a mid-print stop due to my psu browning out I had to reflash my arduino mega before I could communicate with it again, worth testing at least.by Karlberg - Reprappers
Hej! Ja, det är ett jättekul vinterprojekt! Det behövs inga speciella förkunskaper, mest modet att våga arbeta med elektroniken, tålamodet att få mekaniken justerad och en viss vana vid att få olika mjukvaror att samarbeta... Inköpslistan hittade jag på: Jag köpte mina delar från: - plast- och metalldelar samt PSU - elektronik, värmebädd och stegmotorer Sen så köpte jag termistorer, fläktar oby Karlberg - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
You need to calibrate your extruder in Pronterface until 5mm extrusion equals 5mm, google Slic3r is Nicer and follow the instructions!by Karlberg - General Mendel Topics
Hi, First, have you calibrated your extruder? When I tried printing with a 0.3mm nozzle I got a lattice-like effect before I managed to turn down both the extruder feedrate and accelleration in the firmware.by Karlberg - Reprappers
Hej och välkommen! Bra finish är ju lite subjektivt, jag tycker att efter kalibrering så blir utskrifterna klart i klass med vad betydligt dyrare professionella maskiner kan åstadkomma. När jag kommer hem idag så kan jag lägga till lite bilder av vad jag har skrivit ut. Vad gäller PLA så ger en fläkt stor kvalitetsförbättring, håller på att fixa en bättre fläkthållare som ger en jämn fördelningby Karlberg - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
Hi, What settings do you use when printing, layer height, nozzle size and others? From your pictures it seems to me that you have little adhesion between the layers, try the calculator here: You don´t happen to have a cooling fan directed at the "good" side of your prints?by Karlberg - General
+1 for the Mendel Prusa, easy to build and modify.by Karlberg - Reprappers
+1 on the 0.5mm nozzle, I started with what I thought to be a 0.35mm and after several calibration prints with very little plastic I found out that it was a 0.3mm... When I switched to a 0.5mm everything was much easier!by Karlberg - Reprappers
Klar! Nu skriver prusan ut hur fint som helst! Började med en 0,3mm J-head hotend vilket gjorde kalibreringen betydligt svårare, den mesta dokumentationen går ut på att man har ett 0,5mm munstycke. Fick till det iallafall och har skrivit ut ett par kalibreringsfiler med lyckat resultat. Tar dock en massa tid att skriva ut med en lagerhöjd på 0,12mm... Så jag har investerat i en 0,5mm J-head ocksåby Karlberg - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
Have you adjusted the Z_MAX_POS in the FW on the arduino?by Karlberg - General Mendel Topics
Well, I think that the mixed colors might be interesting anyway, I will try that method, thank you!by Karlberg - General Mendel Topics
I am using a window cleaner containing ammonia on my mirror printing surface, just a small dash on some tissue just before printi.g. I had a print break yesterday when I tried to remove it , a bottom layer of 0.6mm was too thin...by Karlberg - Printing
I tried to pull it up with the nozzle warm and I got it up about 2cm. After that it was stuck really hard, I did not dare pull harder. Is that normal? Is it possible to cut the filament and push it down with the new color?by Karlberg - General Mendel Topics
What is the best way/procedure to exchange the filament in a J-head hotend? I want to switch to a different color but I can not get it out...by Karlberg - General Mendel Topics
+1 for the fan, I have tried to print the single-walled cube several times and succeeded yesterday by blowing on it during the print, was quite dizzy after 16 mins...by Karlberg - General
Well, I found out what was wrong here, the max feedrate in the FW was set to 45, when I lowered it to 5 things started to get normal... Now I have a extruder estep of 1265, working perfectly! This and the fact that I thought that I had a 0.35mm Jhead when in reality it is a 0.3mm Jhead caused the prints to be starved of plastic. Lowering the layer height in Cura to 0.1mm also helped. Right now Iby Karlberg - Firmware - mainstream and related support
That is the tutorial I am following, I just wanted to know if a value of around 7000-10000 is way off or if I should continue up since it seems like not enough PLA is coming out the nozzle.by Karlberg - Firmware - mainstream and related support
What is a normal value for the Wades extruder in Marlin? With my 0.35mm nozzle and 3mm PLA I get a value of 7237.2324 in the firmware and it seems that it could even be higher because there are gaps in my walls and infills... Added a picture of a calibration print, the walls are not solid, looks very weird... Any ideas?by Karlberg - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thank you, the polyfuses where actually touching so I bent them apart and directed the fan at them, problem solved!by Karlberg - RAMPS Electronics