anyone know what I am missing with this Arduino: 1.6.9 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from sketch\language.h:240:0, from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:4: sketch\language_en.h:172:45: warning: invalid suffix on literal; C++11 requires a space between literal and identifier [-Wliteral-suffix] #define MSG_MINby myk68 - Firmware - Marlin
Cheers dust. I saw that but didnt seem to work for me but I have the LCD working now, and I'm taking another look at that link. Now for another topic as the keypad only lets me change the FR on the screenby myk68 - Controllers
What no one has any Ideasby myk68 - Controllers
Hi Does anyone know how to link these two together. The megatronics 2.0 board has a 6x2 for the LCD and the keyboard is 5x2. Sadly the LCD 12864 is a 5x2 for both. I have the LCD light but nothing on the screen but this is with the plug fitted to the first 10 pins and pushing the 11 and 12 away a bit. I have found the pins schematic on the mega 2.0. 1. GND 2. 5V 3. LCD Contrast 4. RS 5. GND 6.by myk68 - Controllers
Hi, First time of posting so bare with me I have built this . or at least used it as the basis. However the z axis seems to be flimsy and can be lower away from the rail than in to the rail. if you get what i mean, It tilts away from the rails and belt but the platform support was printed flat and level. now the levelness I can compensate with the level screws and springs under the build platfby myk68 - CoreXY Machines
The same goes with the heated bed, repetier says 87.5c and the thermometer says 83c?by myk68 - Printing
Quotekonwiddak Do you run a pipe from filament reel to extruder? If you don't then then loose filament can pull on the X carriage lifting it upwards. This causes every n layers to be too thick to lay properly. Try unwinding enough of a coil of filament before printing and see if the issue goes away. Also could be temperature swinging due to incorrect pid settings. At 70mm/s your extruder may oby myk68 - Printing
Hi and thanks for the replies just measured the filament and roundness and diameter along a 4-5 meter length seems to be 2.92 mm to 2.98. which as far as I can find seems to be good. I've just printed an android figure, which cura reckons takes 4.7 meters on filament and although not as bad as in the image it still had missing/thin layers at least on the outside of the print. it surely has toby myk68 - Printing
my extruder seems to be starving every 8 or 9 ish lines. then starts to be ok again for another 8-9 lines??? using a e3d etruder with 3mm ABS from 3dfilaprint. printing at 230c, 0.3 layer and 70mm/s speed. eveythings all calibrated, tell it to extrude 100mm filament and it feeds 100.2mm thru which seems good to me. help anyone?? cheers mikeby myk68 - Printing
no ideas ?? I think I may have found it anyway. The big gear on the hobbed bolt is tightening down past the thread and thus pulling the teeth on the bolt to far out to hold the filament. This is also pulling the tightening nut on the other side of the bolt in and tightening the whole thing to much. any one got any ideas how to stop this as the gear used to lock at the end of the thread. mikeby myk68 - Printing
hi all, help I thought I had sorted this issue. i have used a full roll of blue PLA 3mm and had no issues. BUT with the previous green and the red I just got from 3dfilaprint.com. Its almost as if the feeder isnt pulling the filament through but it is. when the current issue happens the gears click, now i dont mean the jump, its like the stepper tries to turn but then click and misses. the filby myk68 - Printing
Nice. I've just managed to print this so far its better. fingers crossed What is the difference then j head and thermal barrier your using and the one I have?? anything significantby myk68 - Printing
Hi Can I just ask how you have your fan set up. I have this one and the thermal barrier gets very hot and I think this is causing my filament to expand and stop extruding. I now have a fan on it but still its getting very hot? Sorry to butt in but it is relevant lol Mikeby myk68 - Printing
Quotebytemedwb Do you have a fan on the top of your hot end? From your description it sounds like the PLA is swelling in the hot end creating too much back pressure. Also, it sounds like you calibrated without the hot end in place. I have always calculated with the hot end on so that any minor slippage/back pressure is accounted for. But if you can't get it to extrude consistently then it wilby myk68 - Reprappers
Quoteuncle_bob Feed rates above 40 mm/sec will be tough to do with any 3mm extruder, let alone a Bowden. I would set a max in your firmware at or below that and move on. 1.75 mm PLA is a bit more common for a Bowden. You sort of feed a bit faster, but have less back pressure. What are you using for a tube? How smooth is it? How clean is it? How tight is it? What sort of hot end are you usinby myk68 - Reprappers
QuoteDaveS 210 sounds ridiculously hot for PLA, I print at 185/186. Could this be a slicer problem? Are you using 1.75 or 3mm PLA ? What is it set to in slicer? Usually I'd say, calibrate your extruder, but if you've done that, I'd measure your filament with a micrometer/caliper and put that in your slicer. I'd check all your slicing settings are the same as the filament/nozzle and you've notby myk68 - Reprappers
Hi all I was having issues with my wade extruder so thought I'd go Bowden. so now its all set up and it feeds 50mm when I tell it to however when the hotend is attached and i try to print something the extruded plastic(PLA) runs fine for a while then seems to 'run out' it keeps coming out in bits that makes the structure like spider web. I thought maybe not hot enough so i up'd the temp toby myk68 - Reprappers
thanks for the replies wheres the best place to get hardened ground rods. looked on ebay but they are dowels on thereby myk68 - Mechanics
Ive looked for bits about these on here and there is a German discussion, but my German is rusty So.... I have a love for these threadless ballscrews, righty or wrongly. they look so cool. So i printed some thinking to use for the z axis but then my Y axis started to play up so thought Id set one up for the Y. Job done Seems to be doing a good job, however, after only a few test prints andby myk68 - Mechanics
Hi All I've been printing with some success but recently noticed that although the walls look ok im not getting the infill I expect. even the different wall perimeters aren't together if you know what i mean The attached is the calibration object from triffids calibration pages and after getting the extruder calibrated to run 100mm through thought id the fine tune. but as you can see it didntby myk68 - Repetier
Thanks for all the replies I have tightened the idler on the extruder and managed to print with no issues or problems a set of wade herring bone gears. like was mentioned i had to really tighten it alot more than i thought i would. retraction is already set to 10mm/s think im going to re position the drive and try a bowden type set up. at least this will remove the weight from the x.by myk68 - General
Hi all I've built a from scratch ord bot type printer, it does a good job that I'm very happy with. However just lately its started to stop extruding at different heights.?? Now it showed up on a fan duct that i printed that must have been about 10cm high. It printed the bottom 8-9cm fine then started to 'thin out'. it finished that print and was usable(see attached) while i tried to figure tby myk68 - General
Hi I'm not sure if i have raised the below link in the right place as i dont think it is software related Can you have a look and see what you think Cheers Mikeby myk68 - Repetier
Hi All I dont understand this one. My printer seems to slip in Y while printing long lengths however when I tested it with the .4 thin wall stretched by 2 in the Y it was fine. see attached I have calibrated the XYZ axis to 0.02 in movement and as you see long thin wall worked fine is a closer shot of what it did trying to print a spring from thingieverse then is a calibration test, nowby myk68 - Printing
this may be a daft question but when i pull the usb it has nothing powering it, as this comes from the usb should i have another power supply going in other than the 12v for the motors?? Mikeby myk68 - Repetier
> > Looks like disconnecting causes a reset on your > board. > Do you have a lcd display? Then you would see the > restart. > > You could try different reset on connect methods > in printer settings and see if that changes the > reset behaviour on disconnect. > > BTW: What board are you using? I'm quite sure this > does not happen with my ramps board. I hby myk68 - Repetier
Hi right got things working again. back to the automation problem I have added a gcode file to the memory card thru the sd reader on the pc as it never shows when i save it thru the sd card manager. file saved as thinwall.gcode on the sd card manager this shows as thinwa~.gco?? I have run this and once the temp starts to rise I have pulled the usb lead and all lights go out and nothing else hby myk68 - Repetier