Something else worth checking is the path of the filament going into the extruder from the spool - we cant see that in the photos. For example, since the filament feeds into the extruder horizontally, then its possible (depending of course where the spool is located) that when you set it up there is some slack in the filament back to the spool, and starts off all working fine. As more filament iby sdavi - General
My vote for Ralph.Hilton's first one, hexagons came out nice and tidy.by sdavi - General
Another CoreXY sample. Heatbed warm up 5min, print time 10min (with simplify3d). ABS, jHead 0.4 Nozzle, 0.3mm layers, 1st layer 40% speed, approx 700mm bowden @80mm/s retract. Slicer - Left: Simplify3D. Right: KISSlicer.by sdavi - General
QuoteHexag Cool prints sdavi ! The resolution looks great. Quotesdavi Removing just those idlers would cause problems, similar to the discussion here: Modified CoreXY. I've read the thread you linked. So, at the pulleys, the belt should always form an angle of 90° ? Here are a couple of other relevant threads too: Building my first CoreXY machine - facing a number of issues and Print at an aby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Quotegrat Realizing it's purely an aesthetic thing, the one issue with coreXY that bugs me is the belt cross. Is there any reason not to stack the idlers, and eliminate the belt crossing? Someone has done a modified CoreXY layout at blog.fabtotum.com that removes the belt crossing.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
QuoteHexag Nice printer sdavi ! Do you have example prints to show us ? I also have a question about the belt layout : what would arrive if the inside idlers closest to the motors (circled in green in the attached image) were deleted ? Is it possible to do that ? Removing just those idlers would cause problems, similar to the discussion here: Modified CoreXY. Here are a couple of small printsby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
As mentioned earlier, you will need to adjust the pot on the drivers. Also, check to make sure the 3 jumpers are all installed for each driver, they are located underneath the driver boards.by sdavi - Reprappers
Looking at Configuration.h you posted, you currently have this (at line 41): // The following define selects which electronics board you have. // Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup #ifndef MOTHERBOARD 33 #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER #endif The 33 (for RAMPS board) is on the wrong line and will be ignored, so you are actually selecting the Ultimaker board insby sdavi - Reprappers
QuoteLarsK Some designs have the tensioning where the belts terminate, again from Sdavi - I don't agree with him here. You should only need one tensioning point for each belt. Actually, I only use one tensioning point for each belt, the motors are both now fixed. A previous iteration I did tension only by sliding the motor mounts, but found this to be a less accurate way to apply tension, especby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Attached photos shows where my endstops are. Micro switches on X/Y and hall effect on Z. Currently they are all at MIN positions.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Your probably not going to get many responses about the frame size since that will ultimately depend on your design and requirements. To get the full 300x300 print area, you are going to need to calculate the dimensions of the x-carriage (including hotend fittings/fans etc), dimensions of the gantry ends, clearances etc etc etc.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Yeah, a one sided x-carriage would work, but the x-carriage plastic parts are actually quite light and any weight savings would be low.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
I initially considered using double sided for the Y-axis (and there is still a back plate module in the source code for it). But after looking through the number of projects on the OpenBuilds website, I noticed that most of them use open ended, even the CNC Routers (although they tended to favour adding more wheels and of course using their aluminium build plates).by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
The wheels I used are the full size ones and yes they are the polycarbonate, these ones: Link. I actually haven't used the Delrin ones before, and the only reason i got the polycarbonate was they were the only ones in stock at the time and did not want to wait.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Update: I've added some new files to github to now include an updated BoM, and added an Assembly directory which contains some basic assembly instructions (PDF) and a STL assembly of all the core components together.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
For some of us, cost and availability plays an important factor. When I was looking at the toothed idlers last year, some places wouldn't ship to my location, and some that did, charge $50-$60 just to ship a few small pieces. Using the flanged bearings works for me (and a number of others) and I am happy with the quality, which at the end of the day is all that really matters. The best thing withby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Doesn't seem to affect the quality to me, so I am quite happy to leave it as is. I did once try running a twist between the motor (moved closest to z smooth rod) and the closest idler, quality was the same but the belt started to wear on the edges cause the length of the twist was too short. There was a discussion about toothed and bearing idlers here: Toothed Idlers love'em or hate'emby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
QuoteGrendahl Is the outer idler closest to your X and Y motors geared, or the same flanged bearings as the idlers on the opposite side from the motors? They are the same flanged bearings as the rest. QuoteGrendahl Are your outer X and Y belts twisted 180 degrees? (They're hidden under the XY carriages in the images) Yeah I run a twist on the outer ones so most of the idlers have the flat sideby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Supply is currently sitting on a shelf under the printer at the moment while i finish the enclosure. Not visible in the photos, but the Z-axis rods attach to another horizontal v-slot about 100mm up from the bottom. My plan is to put a board in at that height, so there will be a space at the bottom of the printer for a power supply, LCD at the front etc etc so they are out of the heated area of tby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Oh, i didnt realise that you have a dual hotend setup........ Does this also happen when you manually click the homeX button? Or is it only happening when you start a print?by sdavi - Reprappers
Looks to me like its the ENDSTOP_X_BACK_ON_HOME since it appears to do the homing correctly. Did you use the online firmware configuration or edit by hand? The setting is in the Configuration.h file, post this config file if you are having trouble so we can have a look. If you used the online editor, then its in the Mechanics tab at the bottom under: "Endstop distance after homing"by sdavi - Reprappers
You could also check the repetier configuration.h for this setting: ENDSTOP_X_BACK_ON_HOME If its not 0 then it will move away from the endstop once triggered, it might currently be set to 50?by sdavi - Reprappers
After building a CoreXY printer based on Zelogik's printer (Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY.), I decided to try V-Wheels on the X and Y axes instead of Linear Bearings. They are much quieter than the linear bearings which used to rattle a lot, and have printed many many hours with the V-Wheels without any issues. Z-Axis still using linear bearings since it doesn't move much. Source files available onby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
What are your questions?by sdavi - Australia, Melbourne RUG
You will need to solder on a new resistor in series with the diode (i.e. only onto one of the wires, not both). For example, connect one end of resistor to 5V, then connect the other end of resistor to the anode of the IR diode then connect the IR diode cathode to the GND. Don't forget the diode is polarised, so it needs to be connected the right way. Yeah, the 3 pins on ramps should be ok, sincby sdavi - General
Looking at this datasheet online (check to make sure this is yours) (optek), it says "Do not connect input diode directly to a voltage source without an external current limiting resistor." Which means you will need a resistor in series with the input diode. According to the datasheet, the absolute max forward current in the diode is 40mA, so you want to be under that. The forward voltage is 1.by sdavi - General
How about one of these Bunnings. Their diameter is only 0.6mm wider than the original bulldog ones, would just have to cut to length.by sdavi - General
yeah, positive movements need to move the hotend from the front of the bed to the back (so the y-axis in terms of the printing coordinates, positive is away from you). But cause the hotend cant move in the "y axis", the bed needs to move, and goes the opposite way to achieve thatby sdavi - General Mendel Topics
If the bed moves back and forth then the min is at the back. You need to look at it from the perspective of the hotend, that is, when the bed moves to the back (away from you) the hotend position is closer to the front end of the bed.by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
Yes, both motors should be turning when going in just the X or Y direction only. I'm not familiar with smoothieware, but did you set it to use CoreXY kinematics? This page smoothieware.org says you need to also set the arm_solution to corexy which i can't see in your config.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines