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A friend uses Cubify Design and says its pretty good: Cubify Design. I haven't tried the demo as I don't have time but I watched a few of the videos and it looks pretty good for sure.
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Garry Bartsch
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3D Design tools
Thanks everyone. @dc42 nailed it; I hadn't taken the step to measure the resistance at the probes only.
When I touch the probes together the multimeter reads 1.0ohm steadily and drops briefly to as low as 0.8ohms but won't stay there. Since the bed measures between 2.0-2.1ohms the actual resistance varies between 1.0 and 1.2ohms; I guess about where it should.
My PSU puts out 12.55V. With 1.1oh
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Garry Bartsch
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Controllers
Thanks Chris. May I ask a few questions about the connectors and MOSFETs?
I am assuming you like screw terminals because they provide a more secure connection than the push fit? IF so, does this apply only to how easy they are to pull off the pins and thus they could come loose during operation?
I searched a bit on MOSFETs but don't really know what is the difference between RAMPS MOSFETs and
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
I have two heat beads. Both MK2a. One etched copper from a reputable company and the other a cheap copper plated one (copper plating in the holes and copper pads).
They both measure ~2ohms resistance when I apply the multimeter probes to the solder pads. Aren't these heat beds supposed to measure about 1.2ohms?
My multimeter measures other things at expected values so I don't think its defecti
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Garry Bartsch
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Controllers
I suggested something similar to Alessandro a while back: "Once a part has a minimum of two vertical perimeters could the user choose for the number of perimeters to alternate between one and two (or any chosen combination of perimeters if than more two perimeters were specified) so that in-fill for alternating layers would extend over one (or more) of the vertical perimeters? The walls and the i
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Garry Bartsch
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Slic3r
I haven't read many good things about the RAMPS polyfuses and people replace them with regular fuses so I'd like to do that. I think its simple but since I'm new to electronics I want to make sure.
Should I buy some of these automotive in-line fuses? In-line Car Truck Automotive Standard Blade Fuse Holder Fuseholder. Desolder the polyfuses, and solder the new fuses in? Anything to watch out for?
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Garry Bartsch
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RAMPS Electronics
I made a mistake and did not differentiate between the 5V standby and normal 5V (red wire). So I saved a red wire. Will this be a problem? I'm guessing the benefit of using the standby line would be it is live always and therefore the Raspberry Pi can always be communicated with?
Also, If I am using RAMPS, which would be a good place to terminate the ground from the Raspberry pi?
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
Things that work are good things
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
Are you printing to bare glass now? If the extruded filament does not stick to the glass it will glob up on the nozzle. Draw a cylinder 40mm in diameter (circles stick easily) and slice that with your extruder set to 205C and bed to 80C. Speed 25mm/sec. Print that and see if the PLA sticks and doesn't gob onto the nozzle.
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
I'm guessing. Are you running the fan after the first layer is done? J-heads need cooling or heat will creep up the hot end body and will cause the filament to soften high up in the cool section and it will jam in the hollow hex screw. You would need to take the hot end out of the Wade's block and remove the jam. I did this. Twice.
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
I'm guessing it sounds similar to my Dibond machine but it's really difficult to compare without hearing directly. I assume vibration would be less possible with a 1/2" wood frame but I'm guessing again.
I'd sure like to see more prints if you ever would be willing to post some.
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
Great job Rich! Your first android looks awesome. If that is your first print I can say you are going to have a lot of fun with your machine!
Some PLA sticks easily to glass; others doesn't stick well at all. I think the colorant or pigment makes the difference. Natural PLA seems easy to print to bare glass. But make sure you have the first layer hot enough or you won't get it to stick to the gl
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
It is confusing me so, yes, I had better ask them before buying so I understand what I'm getting. Thanks Chris.
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
QuotenopheadAFAIK h6 is the correct spec to work with linear bearings.
Would all bushing manufacturers make their linear bearings the same size? Using their bearings, Misumi USA recommends their rods, "hardened with g6 tolerance" (Misumi Linear Bushing PDF) Would this not be too loose? Or might their bearings be tighter than some other brands? Might their bearings be designed specifically for th
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
Sorry I can't comment on the vibration but that's a wicked looking Heavy Metal printer. How's it's print quality?
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Garry Bartsch
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Mechanics
Will be interested to see your prints when you are done building.
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Garry Bartsch
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Mendel90
Thank you Werner, that's good advice. Thank you .. And nice clock!
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Garry Bartsch
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General
QuoteBerryBot3DInsulating the heater block helps to make layers more consistent.
Hi, could you explain how the layers are more consistent? I'm also wondering if the heater block could be wrapped with self-adhering silicone tape as nophead does for the J-head in his Mendel90 kit?
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Garry Bartsch
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General
Thank you ggherbaz. This is precisely the type of response I was looking for; theory combined with experience. While I fully agree with you that experimenting is the way to learn and understand in this case I'll likely skip on to designing with belts. The more I think of using line in my design the less likely I think it would work out well. Maybe some day I'll look at them again ..
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Garry Bartsch
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General
I have ordered some from Amazon. Reading in another thread people are gluing the thin sheets to glass with tapes or high temp silicone. I believe PEI does not conduct heat well so thicker pieces might not work well; but that is conjecture since I haven't tried yet.
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Garry Bartsch
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General
Since learning about using Spectra lines in place of belts I've been quite intrigued with the idea so have been reading what I can find and watching YouTube for examples of Spectra line in action.
Some of the concerns I have are:
1. GRIP - Can the Spectra line grip a smooth/toothed pulley strongly enough to push a typical Mendel90/Prusa style X carriage (lighter or heavier Y carriage depending
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Garry Bartsch
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General
Hi Mike, Thanks for those ideas.
I had planned to put the silicone onto the glass and then put the Ultem on top and roll the Ultem since I assume it would be slightly flexible? More so than the glass? But I'll consider your plan once I see the Ultem. And yes, then I would put a few layers of glass on top followed by big hardcover book with a bunch of filament on top of that. I don't really have
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Garry Bartsch
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Reprappers
Quoteshai3. Yes, strings do stretch. This is why we use a 65 pound tested spectra fishing line which only needs tightening about 3 times after you first assemble it, then it works fine.
I'm planning to try Spectra and will pre-stretch it before installing it. Maybe I'll hang a 3kg weight on it? Or would it require more or less weight? I'm hoping this would allow the line to stabilize more quickl
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Garry Bartsch
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Delta Machines
I have ordered the Ultem and am going to try it adhered with high temp silicone. I'm wondering if it would be best to use a laminate roller to press the Ultem to the glass to make it as flat as possible and eliminate bulges of silicone? Would such a method leave enough silicone between the two materials for good bonding? It might not be good to starve the joint.
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Garry Bartsch
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Reprappers
QuoteReplaceWould it be a nice feature to specify Outer Perimeter first EXCEPT for OVERHANG sections ?
I like this idea if it can be implemented.
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Garry Bartsch
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Slic3r
QuoteRich K.
My Mk2b has solder pads on BOTH sides. They're just thin foil, though, so shouldn't interfere with the glass. The build manual even cautions against geting solder in the holes because it will prevent the glass from sitting flat.
Yes. Sorry, I should have explained further that I meant if we solder anything to the pad the glass could not sit flat.
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Garry Bartsch
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Controllers
The solder pads go on the bottom. The glass could not sit flat if the solder pads were on the top.
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Garry Bartsch
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Controllers
In the three settings tabs there is the 'Save' button. It is used to save changes to the current configuration and the is way into the 'Save As' function used to make a new configuration. Personally, 95% of the time I just want to save a change to the current configuration, but need to make two clicks to do that because each time we click 'Save' we must choose to which configuration we wish to ap
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Garry Bartsch
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Slic3r
QuoteMPower
Last time I got a RD3010B12H, which is 4CFM (http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/FILN-China-factory-12-volt-dc_1272306273.html). The photos on E3D website show a different manufacturer and model though.
Thank you. It seems these 30mm fans all make about 4CFM. I am designing a different fan shroud which aims for cooling the heatbreak to within ~1 to 0.5mm of the heater block in addi
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Garry Bartsch
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General