My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
Posted by Trike
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 25, 2014 11:19AM |
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Bratan
I also might have issue with extruder part. I used only one screw with spring and filament pushed to the side and broke small piece of plastic that was guiding filament. It's probably not a big deal, but I wanted to ask, do you guys tighten extruder screws as tight as possible or it doesn't matter?
I had the same thing happen with my extruder, one of the guides broke off and got wedged in the joint below. That's when my prints REALLY went to hell. I was able to take it apart and glue it (acetone) and I added another washer to get the hobbed bolt aligned better. I also had to add a second spring to one side of the filament tensioner, but just one side. Weird.
Two more days and I should be able to move the printer into my new shop.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 26, 2014 11:33AM |
Thanks! Yeah I was talking about idler. I added second screw and cut it so it doesn't push out motor.Quote
Allnei
Don´t use only one screw, because pressure on the filament is bad. Also don´t tighten iddler screws too much, because they will push motor on other side (they can go through). Bratan if you ask about tightening extruder screws (4 screws that hold X carriage and extruder) they must be tight, if not, your prints will not be good.
Also I reset all my settings back to when I was able to print something, but unfortunately something is completely screwed up, it's now printing with dots instead of lines, and I don't know why
I'm attaching image of latest print...
EDIT: Found solution well kind of
It was extrusion steps per mm settings in firmware. I measured how much filament get's moved when I extrude 30mm and it was only 15. So I kept raising it (with M92 Exxx command) until about 700 (from default 629) and it seems to do it. I never did get 30mm no matter how high I raised the number tho, but I got pretty close and now at least it's printing something
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2014 01:06PM by Bratan.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 26, 2014 02:29PM |
I used all default settings for speed.Quote
Allnei
What acceleration did you set? IMHO too fast movement, or too slow extrusion
It has to be extrusion. I just finished printing 50mm tower (it took over an hour) but it came out perfect! I can see that it's laying a slightly thicker lines than before, but they are so much more sturdier... I'll probably reduce extruder steps slightly. Printing Spool mount now
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 26, 2014 05:18PM |
I'm making this one.Quote
Allnei
What spool holder are you printing? I was thinking about this one [www.thingiverse.com] or this style [www.thingiverse.com]
Already printed two spool mounts, they came out great! Now printing plate mounts and having worst luck with it. I mentioned earlier that one of the extruder idler's "ears" got broken off, well sometimes filament slides off to the right and get's stuck so I had to restart twice, I'm trying to keep it on the left side. Then one part was lifting off the bed. Then spool reel fell down and pulled X-axes cable with it, lol. But I'll finish printing it no matter what
Video
P.S. Plate mounts are designed for 6mm frame, if you have iron, it's 3 mm. I just realized this
I'll just add some padding or tape to hold it from sliding too muchEdited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2014 05:48PM by Bratan.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 26, 2014 10:21PM |
Ok guys, I'm a bit puzzled by something. Unless I send "M92 E710" command manually to printer (if it was reset or lost power) extruder will not extrude enough material to print anything useful. With this "magic" command everything works great. I'm a bit confused because I already set Extruder steps to 710 in Firmware. It seems to ignore it completely, or maybe this command does something else? Anyway I've added it to the G-Code in my Slic3r settings to automate this process. Weird.
P.S. Just finished printing Extruder idler (50 minutes), came out pretty nice, I just hope PLA will be able to hold filament well enough. Immediately see weakness in the part that broke off. 3-4mm wall should be added on either side of the "guide", just before screw holes. I'll try to modify it once I learn how to import STL into Sketchup
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2014 11:10PM by Bratan.
P.S. Just finished printing Extruder idler (50 minutes), came out pretty nice, I just hope PLA will be able to hold filament well enough. Immediately see weakness in the part that broke off. 3-4mm wall should be added on either side of the "guide", just before screw holes. I'll try to modify it once I learn how to import STL into Sketchup
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2014 11:10PM by Bratan.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 27, 2014 08:02AM |
Greg's Wade Extruder is extruder, that you have now
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 27, 2014 10:10AM |
It's measuring intake filament not outtakeQuote
gadget_greg
@Bratan yes, that is very strange! When I set PronterFace to extrude, say 5mm, I get a superfine filament that curls all around and must be more like 20mm. It's really weird.
If you mark 5mm of filament (i.e. from top of the extruder) and extrude 5mm, filament should move exactly 5mm (i.e. your market will be at the level with top of the extruder). Do not measure what actually comes out...BTW are there any advantages of using 1.5mm filament vs 3mm? I think thinner should be easier to thread, 3mm is just so inflexible...
Wow, dude that's exactly what I was looking for! My spools opening is about 38.5mm and I was trying to adapt 30mm model I found on Thingivers.Quote
gadget_greg
Anyway, I just made one of these. It took a little dremelling to get the bearing to fit but it works nicely. I'm printing the second one now... [www.shapedo.com]
Are you going to make something to attach it to the Prusa's frame?
Question to all: How did you wire your extruder cooler fan? I soldered it directly to Ramps aux board (as instructed) but now I'm having second thoughts. Has anyone connected it to the fan terminals (near heatbed terminals)?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/27/2014 10:53AM by Bratan.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 27, 2014 01:05PM |
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Bratan
It's measuring intake filament not outtake
BTW are there any advantages of using 1.5mm filament vs 3mm? I think thinner should be easier to thread, 3mm is just so inflexible...
Wow, dude that's exactly what I was looking for! My spools opening is about 38.5mm and I was trying to adapt 30mm model I found on Thingivers.
Are you going to make something to attach it to the Prusa's frame?
Question to all: How did you wire your extruder cooler fan? I soldered it directly to Ramps aux board (as instructed) but now I'm having second thoughts. Has anyone connected it to the fan terminals (near heatbed terminals)?
I was wondering if that's where you measure it. I tried 100mm and I got a bird's nest! lol
I DID print a couple of mounts but I won't need them after tomorrow when I move my printer into my new shop!
I made mounts similar to this (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:299867/) but I had to modify them to fit the steel frame, they were also kind of thin.
I never read that you should solder the extruder fan?!? I have mine plugged into the board. D9 sounds about right. Later on I may hard wire it and add a switch but for now it's good where it is. It *IS* noisy but what can you do?
I thought the regular Wade's is what we have, where the large gear wheel's diameter is parallel to the y-axis. The Greg's Wade Extruder looks more compact and there seems to be a lot more add-ons for the Greg's Wade. The Greg's has the diameter of the gears parallel to the x-axis. [www.thingiverse.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build June 27, 2014 01:12PM |
LOL, yeah I can imagineQuote
gadget_greg
I was wondering if that's where you measure it. I tried 100mm and I got a bird's nest! lol
The way I did it is measured 100mm before extruder and marked with marker. Then extruded 30mm at 50mm/s and measured distance from mark to the extruder. Ideally it should be 20mm (100-30) but best I could get was 22mm, which is fine. Layers are a little thick but prints come out nice IMHO. I also had to raise bed temp to 65C to prevent it from coming up, especially for long thin parts.
Good luck with your workshop, post some pics!
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