Download and install the latest version of the Arduino IDE. Download the pre-configured version of Marlin from the smartrap github, extract it, open it in the Arduino IDE, select your board and com port in the menus, and hit the upload button.by Andrew Smith - RAMPS Electronics
That shares the primary flaw of all prism frames - very little stability in X axis, and theres no good way to brace it without obstructing part of your print area. For a large printer, I'd probably go with a mendel90 style buttressed-T. As for ABS vs PLA - PLA has very poor temperature resistance, which would be catastrophic if you used PLA parts within a heated chamber.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Yeah, setting the z-steps to an integer should avoid any kind of floating point error. Anyway, it looks like your banding isn't consistent across layers, so inconsistent extrusion seems a likely cause.by Andrew Smith - General
Yes, that will workby Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Add a thermocouple board to your RAMPS, or replace the thermocouple with a thermistor.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
You probably blew the D10 mosfet. Its easy enough to replace if you can solder, or you can reconfigure the firmware to use the D9 mosfet instead. This in done in pins.h, in the current version of Marlin you need to change line 684 to refer to pin 9.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Or, reconfigure the firmware so that mintemp is below the bottom of the thermistor table. Just be sure to put it back before you run the printer for real.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Injection molders use a nozzle temp of 330-350C, which gives you a starting point for experimentation. So you're going to need an all-metal hot end with a thermocouple. The MSDS suggests it decomposes above 300C and that the fumes may be pretty toxic, so an enclosed machine and filtered exhaust are recommended. Also, you probably need to heat the chamber to close to the glass transition point whiby Andrew Smith - General
It sounds like he isn't able to run the program at all. @OP - try running pronterface from the command line and see if you get any error messages.by Andrew Smith - General
Quotewaseem salem el-mofty I want to learn what is the way (Command story =D ) from the G-Code to the Arduino pins, how the arduino understands the G-Code command and translate it into a movement (motor stepping)..... It might be best to download Marlin or one of the other reprap firmwares and examine the code directly.by Andrew Smith - General
The program running on the Arduino does, yes.by Andrew Smith - General
The firmware running on the Arduino is needed to translate the movements commanded by the g-code into motor steps, as well as to manage the heaters, monitor the endstops and so on.by Andrew Smith - General
The firmware handles the translation. Download Marlin, look in configuration.h, you can tell it which set of electronics you have. If you have custom electronics, you can alter pins.h to define the pins for those electronics. G-code is higher level, it deals with moving the machine in milimeters rather than flipping pins and counting steps.by Andrew Smith - Controllers
Thermocouples don't work the same way thermistors do, rather than changing their resistance with temperature, they generate a voltage, which the arduino adcis not sensitive enough to read directly. You need an interface chip to read them and pass that data to the arduino. If you do have an interface, then it may be returning an error code rather than a temperature. Possible faults include an opeby Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Quoteelwood127 This was a kit from Aurora. The Z-605. I can't find a website for Aurora or anything about the Z605 other than places selling it. Luckily, nothing on it seems to be too different from standard reprap designs, so all the documentation you need will exist, you'll just need to hunt it down. Quote I've searched every where for a manual or documentation for using Repetier and have founby Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Try turning the trimpot on the X axis driver down a tad, or improving the cooling on that driver.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Quotetamy1986 Just a question where is the best place to find the software/firmware for aurora z605 3d printer? PLEASE HELP??? That printer comes with a Melzi board, so if it comes to it you can install any reprap firmware and run it with any reprap host software. On the firmware side, thats Marlin, Sprinter, Teacup or Repetier. I think the latter is supposed to come already installed on your prby Andrew Smith - Reprappers
D8 is powered by the 11A terminals, so you'll need to connect an adequate power supply to those or you have no power to the heated bed - which your 5A supply couldn't power in any case.by Andrew Smith - RAMPS Electronics
GND and VCC are the 0V and 5V connections. SO, CLK and SS go to the SPI interface on the mega. Google will turn up the specific pin numbers.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Are you sure that your electronics have firmware loaded? Which software are you using? Do you have thermistors connected and do they give a reasonable reading - some firmwares will shut the printer down if the see too low a temperature.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Terrified? The only thing that happens if you mis-wire a stepper is that it vibrates instead of turns. Nothing will be damaged. As for the different wiring order, inverting a single coil as shown in your picture reverses the motor. I prefer to do that in firmware, or by inverting the connector, but with those screw terminals its easier to swap the two wires than to reverse all four.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Yes, theres nothing to stop you wiring two steppers on one connector. Or, the mod you need to make in pins.h is pretty simple: #define Y_STEP_PIN 60 #define Y_DIR_PIN 61 #define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56 #define Y_MIN_PIN 14 #define Y_MAX_PIN -1 //15 #define Z_STEP_PIN 46 #define Z_DIR_PIN 48 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62 #define Z_MIN_PIN 18 #define Z_MAX_PIN -1 //19 should become #define Y_STEP_PIN 46 #defiby Andrew Smith - General
Turn the power up a bit, the worst you can do is overheat the stepper driver, in which case it'll shut down to protect itself.by Andrew Smith - General
Plate them up with larger pieces, or print many at once. Or, if you must print a few small parts, turn up the number of loops in the skirt so the extruder is primed before starting on the part.by Andrew Smith - General
Belt, or proper high speed leadscrews. Threaded rod isn't fast enough. For a printer , belts are perfectly adequate and cheaper than screws.by Andrew Smith - General
You don't need to move endstops at all. Invert the axis, invert the homing direction, and connect the endstop to the max pins, and you fix the problem without touching the machine.by Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Try swapping the XY motors.by Andrew Smith - Mechanics
Quotepolyglot Will wrapping the belt around a bolt so that it engages itself and then clamping (zip tie?) be reasonable? I don't want to violate any min bend radius constraints and have the belt snap at the bolt. It's what I do. Works perfectly so far. The minimum bend radius is not important here because its a one time operation, you aren't flexing the belt enough times to fatigue it, just enoby Andrew Smith - Reprappers
Its the belt path which gives the 2:1 reduction, but I can't find a diagram of it. is the same idea with a better video attached.by Andrew Smith - General
I doubt many people still have a copy, that CD is ancient and everything on it is long obsolete. Tell us what you are trying to accomplish and we can point you at modern solutions.by Andrew Smith - General