Or a piece of Kapton tape.by Viper97 - Reprappers
I'd check where you did the mod as the first thing. You might have a solder bridge. I've modded mine and powered it on (no load yet, waiting on a replacement Nema17) no smoke and I can get to the web interface. That's progress. Best practice for me is to test the board first to make sure it works and then mod it. This eliminates any guess work, if it worked before I modified it, then it's whby Viper97 - Controllers
Quoteo_lampe @Viper97 The picture from Wrangler is "upside-down" . He´s using the same pins... -Olaf This is what happens when you're at work and are trying to remember your board and match it with the picture. Got home and took a look and went oh!!!!!! that makes more sense! Yeesh.by Viper97 - Controllers
Hmmm... Wonder if it will make a difference... don't think so but I guess I'll find out today because my order is in. Only question is the rep gave us a different diagram from what I've seen you do wrangler. Something like pin 1 goes to the middle point and two to the left point and three to the right. Yet yours works... is it a different pin out?by Viper97 - Controllers
This is the suggested fix and the one I ordered:by Viper97 - Controllers
Quotewrangler Tried it myself and working fine temperature is +- 0.3 degree Celcius so I'm happy. Yay! Ordered my part, should be here Friday. Thanks for the pic!by Viper97 - Controllers
Small black square or rectangle on the top of the board. Nothing goes under the board where the pins are. If it helps I'm also a wiring fanatic!by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
If it goes up and down it's the Z axis, if it goes back and forth it's the y axis and if it goes left to right it's the x axis. More than likely they are heat sinks for the stepper drivers that plug into the RAMPS board. Hopefully they came with some sort of tape to stick on the little chip on the driver board. If not I've dabbed a bit of superglue or thermal paste on them to stick them in placeby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Usually it's the cheap connector parts that are the problem. Soldering the wires to the motherboard directly would bypass that problem but it would also make quick disconnection difficult. I personally wouldn't have a problem with a direct connection.by Viper97 - General New Machines Topics
This should guide you!by Viper97 - General
Just a thought... maybe you've tightened the hobbed bolt down to tight.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemike3 So everyone here isn't kids.. I am 60 myself and was wondering if there were some oldsters around.. my first dip into this 3D thing.. after retirement.. something to keep me busy and thinking.. You're not the only 60 year old...by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like your LCD is picking up some interference or possibly the cable is to long introducing data errors, just a thought.by Viper97 - General
A4498 = 1/16th DRV8825 = 1/32 Provided of course that all the jumpers are placed correctly (three jumpers per stick).by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm guessing around 400 for the z-axis at a quick glance. That's what I've programmed mine for to start with the intent to adjust that number during calibration (Working on the Prusa I3 Steel). If you calculate the lead and pitch (8*2=16) I believe that means that in one complete revolution of the motor the height will change 16mm. Look at the stepper and driver. Mine has a 1.8° step angle wby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
3D Printer T8 300mm Z Axis Lead Screw 8mm Screw Pitch Specifications: Material: 304 stainless steel Diameter: 8mm Length: 300mm Pitch: 2mm Lead of thread: 8mm Length: 300mm Pretty much standard fare on fleabay.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'll be following this... looks interesting.by Viper97 - Controllers
QuoteBoxcar Quoteflyway97 1. take off component D5 and F3; 2. Connect R-78E-5.0's 3 pins to the 3 solder joints as shown in the picture, (pin1 to label 1, pin2 to label 2, pin3 to label 3),then it can work well. Thank you! My MKS SBASE should show up in a week or so. I ordered a few R-78E5.0-1.0 from Digikey so I'll report back once I have everything setup. Post a how to for us old timers withby Viper97 - Controllers
I have thought about lead screws for my steel also. I have a plan but not sure if it will work (ordered parts anyways since I am a glutton for punishment). I'm doing this simply because I want to... not sure if there will be an improvement or not in print quality between the two but it should prove to be interesting at least. I'll post when I have something more definitive to show. (Or avoid pby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Cutting it a little close IMHO. First the stated output may or may not be correct, electronics vary, quality control varies and ratings are often hedged. Then you have to consider how much you are actually drawing in amperage and if you close to the rated output you are probably straining that power supply and causing it to degrade faster than intended. It's best in my mind to at least doubleby Viper97 - General
I found that to be true on this build also, the only instructions are in Spanish. I'm putting together a video to solve that. Meanwhile the bearing goes into smaller green piece with an appropriate length M3 bolt and nut. On the other side opposite of the bearing should be room for an M4 screw so insert the screw and probably a washer so that the head is pointing toward the bearing. Then slideby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
While I agree the I3 Steel is a better option, the aluminum I3 rework is a far sight better option than acrylic. I one both an aluminum I3 rework (working fantastic I might add) and am building the I3 Steel now. Rigidity is one of the keys of good printing. The Steel is more rigid than the rod/sheet of the I3 rework. I wouldn't say the I3 is crap... just not the optimal choice. In your caseby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
In progress thanks folks!by Viper97 - RAMPS Electronics
Looks like fried to the crisp filament. Might want to break it down, clean it up and retighten the head. Could also be from curled up filament being caught up in the movement of the heads.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAndrewBCN PM me if you are interested in one of these 2.5 DXL frames. Otherwise there are a number of places in Spain that sell 2.0 frames with varying prices and finish levels. Crack dealer!by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a rework and I'm building a steel. It looks to me like the X and Y stuff (Minus the motor mounts and upper rod mounts) will fit nicely (the plastic parts that is) including extruder and carriage. The smooth rods should be good to go if you have a steel v2.01 as they are standard size rework rods. The v2.0 actually using 241mm rods according to the Wiki I'm following. I actually don't sby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Autobed leveling... yeah, I'm looking at some designs and I have a dual extruder setup I want to do also but the I3 steel has just been painted and I assemble the frame tomorrow (while shooting a video). My first printer BumbleBot... named after a certain Transformer is helping me build the i3 Steel version Optimus Prime Bot... heh. This is way to much fun! Let us know what you find out with tby Viper97 - Reprappers
My 12v system does from 22C to 45C in about 3 minutes... 30 seconds more than yours does. I've never really measured how long it takes for the 24v system to kick in but I know it's under 4 minutes to 100C... so as Andrew said (and he has far more experience at this than I) it would be good to break out the multimeter and take some measurements. Oh and as a side note, I've got a lot of really niby Viper97 - Reprappers
Okay... what software are you running. The wiring looks okay to me so I think you're fine there. If you're using Marlin in the configuration.h there is a line of code there like this: #define BED_MAXTEMP 150 (Mine is set to 150 so if you want you can change it to something like 115.) If BED_MAXTEMP is less than 110 that might be part of the problem as it will cause the circuitry to cut powerby Viper97 - Reprappers