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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Text Editing - 9 years ago
Changing an STL is not something you do in Cura. Try this customizable luggage label -- in Thingiverse, click on the red "Open in Customizer" link. Type in the text you want -- tag size will increase to accommodate it. Click "Create Thing". Click "Go to my queue". Click "View thing". Download it.by frankvdh - General
Re: Just added heated bed...I think I broke it. - 9 years ago
0.6 ohms, voltage = 12V => current = 12/0.6 = 20 Amps. 20A * 12V = 240 Watts. That's not excessive if you have a largish heated bed. 300x300 heated beds are up to about 300W (25A@12V). I think you're saying that you're running things off the 11A output of the ATX supply, or even the 5A output? In either case, 20A is more current than the supply can deliver, so the voltage will sag, the ardby frankvdh - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Z Banding causes other than leadscrew? - 9 years ago
Play in your X and/or Y axis, or a loose hotend, can cause banding if your slicer reverses direction at the completion of a layer. How far apart are the bands?by frankvdh - Printing
Re: 3d-scanner cabin in the mall soon? - 9 years ago
I don't think so. Typically you take a photograph to remember something/someone. I can see statues replacing photographs as a way to remember something really significant, so you might want a statue of (say) your wedding on your mantlepiece. But you're not going to keep statues of insignificant things; they're just too bulky to store many of them conveniently. Secondly, the results of the 3D scby frankvdh - General
Re: Relay and cables getting hot - 9 years ago
QuoteDownunder35m For as an electrician the problem already starts with the heatbed. Let's face it: Copper is for good connection and low resitance but not for heating, this is where materials like Nichrome or today even Carbon comes into play. For the same amout of heat energy produced a proper resistance wire would need only a fraction of the amps. I stopped reading at this point because thatby frankvdh - Printing
Re: Large format printer -- Bed (physical not heated portion) - 9 years ago
Get something nearly flat (e.g. 4mm aluminium sheet) and give it a 0.5mm thick coat of epoxy paint or automotive body filler. Put some kind of grinder head on your printer and send it to all points. Repeat if necessary.by frankvdh - General
Re: E3D BigBox - 9 years ago
My 2c... I'm not interested, just because of the plywood frame. I don't know about the acrylic frame, but I'd want metal. Rumba does at least mean you have enough motor drivers to run a Diamond hotend, I guess. Or are there 2 Z motors? I think the LCD is probably a waste of money... better to integrate the Octopi. Wonder how thick the rods are... 8mm or 10mm? Interesting that they use toothed bby frankvdh - General
Re: Calibration issues - 9 years ago
Dunno about your expectations, but I'd be happy with either of the prints you've photographed. If you screw a bolt into the nut before heating it, and hold the bolt with some pliers, you should be able to press the nut into the hole and pull it out again. Or you could try scaling up your print by a couple of percent to make it fit.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Calibration issues - 9 years ago
In my (not very extensive) experience, extruder calibration is more an art than a science, depending on your nozzle size (which may not be what is advertised), your filament diameter (which may vary from reel to reel and even place to place on the reel), the moisture content of the filament, and the phase of the moon. Setting the correct E steps gives an approximation of the correct extruder calby frankvdh - Printing
Re: hot-end mechanical improvement idea.. - 9 years ago
Just having a pair of flats or a hex machined onto the heatbreak in the space between heatsink and heater block would make it much easier to unscrew the heatbreak from the heatsink.by frankvdh - Developers
Re: Post subject: @$%&*#! Nearly ready to throw the printer out the window! - 9 years ago
According to the thread I linked to earlier, Repetier v1.5.2 is the solution to the "Lines not corresponding" error message you posted. I don't know the hardware, but assuming its similar to a PrintrBoard, if you don't jump the JPROG pins while resetting the board, you won't be able to reflash it. Are you sure that the fan and heated bed are plugged into the right connectors? If not, then you cby frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: solid infill over extrusion - 9 years ago
I agree with everything Dave said. Also, if the layers are printed in opposite directions (e.g. layer 1 clockwise around the cube, layer 2 counterclockwise), then play in the printer mechanism can cause this. That's particularly true if you use auto-levelling and your bed isn't level. Frankby frankvdh - Slic3r
Re: Post subject: @$%&*#! Nearly ready to throw the printer out the window! - 9 years ago
That error message corresponds almost exactly with this thread: I predict that the first error starts just after line number 65535? Frankby frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Prints failing - 9 years ago
65535 = 0xFFFF... I'm not surprised that it wraps around from there to 0. It looks like your firmware (Repetier_0.91) has a 16-bit counter for 'ok' messages, whereas your 'software' (Repetier V1.5.0) has a 32-bit counter. I'm not familiar with Repetier, but maybe you can turn off the checking of these ok messages? Or maybe your software needs to be upgraded to something that handles this situatby frankvdh - Printing
Re: Post subject: @$%&*#! Nearly ready to throw the printer out the window! - 9 years ago
I'll take a wild stab at this and suggest that the fact that it spits out Italian messages, plus USB comms errors, indicates that the firmware is corrupt. So reflashing the firmware is probably a good idea. Velleman's website tells you how to set up the firmware, including a link to a Marlin Zip file. That file seems to contain a Configuration.h set up for this printer. Have you tried that? Frby frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Prints failing - 9 years ago
If you think the problem is in the Gcode, can you post the Gcode? And a log showing the *first* error reported?by frankvdh - Printing
Re: Beyond G-code?? - 9 years ago
Thanks for those comments. Hmmm... I hadn't thought of auto bed-leveling. I guess that could still be done if the printer sent the measured height of the bed at the three points back to the calculating machine. The whole step sequence is in effect one huge delta motion.... maybe the concept would need to be extended to include some absolute commands like "Home", "Stop", etc. I guess what I'm saby frankvdh - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Beyond G-code?? - 9 years ago
I didn't know that. But I think that the G-code gets in the way, rather than helping. For example, if you're wanting to continuously change the colour along an extrusion path, this would get really unwieldy... you would essentially reduce your extrusion path to a series of voxels, each a slightly different colour.by frankvdh - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Beyond G-code?? - 9 years ago
I've just got a Diamond hotend, so I'm starting to think ahead to multi-colour printing. I think that 2- and 3-colour printing is pretty well figured out, but what I'm talking about is multi-colour printing... mixing Cyan, Magenta, Yellow in different ratios whilst printing, to produce continuous gradients of colour (e.g. the colour might fade from red to green across the face of an object). I doby frankvdh - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: wierd blockage in top of extruder - 9 years ago
Take the heatsink off the heatbreak, leaving the heatbreak in the heater block. Remove the nozzle if you think the blockage is not filament. Heat up to 210 or so (assuming PLA), wait a while for the heat to soak to the top of the heatbreak, and then push whatever it is out.by frankvdh - Printing
Diamond hotend - 9 years ago
Anyone else bought a Diamond hotend? I have one, and am still building the printer for it to go on. So looking to leech ideas until I have it running, at which point I'll be happy to share experiences. Frankby frankvdh - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Filament thickness via capacitance? - 9 years ago
Reading another thread here, I remembered a project I worked on back in the 1980s, where the thickness of cotton yarn was continuously measured on spinning machines. IIRC, this was done by measuring capacitance. Now I'm wondering whether the same technique could be applied to measuring filament cross-sectional area. I'm not an electronics expert, but I'm thinking that the dielectric constant forby frankvdh - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Marlin response too early - 9 years ago
I haven't even considered gears and so on. I believe that the mechanical side is irrelevant... the steps/mm in Configuration.h gives the relationship between the stepper motor steps and the feed rate into the hotend.by frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: high precision circle printing - 9 years ago
Run through the holes with an 8mm drill.by frankvdh - Printing
Re: X Y Z calibration on Prusa i3 - 9 years ago
I don't think your bed's unlevel. I'd say that your X/Y axes at +/- 0.1mm would be about as good as you could expect. It does look like your Z axis is out a bit... what layer thickness are you printing? If it's not already 0.1mm, try reducing to that to improve the accuracy of your measurement. If it continues to be too tall, try decreasing the Z steps/mm (e.g. M92 Z1234.56) by a couple of perby frankvdh - Printing
Re: Marlin response too early - 9 years ago
Doh! You're right, Olaf. Correctly, 1 extruder step gives pi*21*21/266.67 = 5.19 cubic mm of chocolate = 6.6mm of extruded chocolate Which still seems an order of magnitude or two out.by frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Printing a tube (or how to not close hollow objects) - 9 years ago
Yes, you'll need to build it properly in FreeCAD. I'm not sure how I'd make your object... maybe start with a sketch of two concentric circles. Pad that to make a tube. Revolve it through 90 degrees to make the corner. Also look at to give you some ideas.by frankvdh - Slic3r
Re: Printing a tube (or how to not close hollow objects) - 9 years ago
Hi Nicholas, I think there's something screwy with your .stl file. What software did you ise to produce it? When I load it into Cura, I don't see any sidewalls between layer 34 and 92 (layer height = 0.1mm). If I rotate it through 90 degrees, there's still a section where the wall is missing. I suspect that the walls are zero thickness? i.e. it's a solid object rather than a tube. Frankby frankvdh - Slic3r
Re: Marlin response too early - 9 years ago
But still, 42mm diameter = 1.68". From Configuration.h #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,100,1600,266.67} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker So 1 extruder step gives pi*42*42/266.67 = 20.8 cubic mm of chocolate = 6.6mm of extruded chocolate This seems like an order of magnitude (or two) out.by frankvdh - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Over extrusion only on solid infill - 9 years ago
After a whole lot more experimenting, I'm now printing again For other people suffering through the same issues, here's what I learned... Probably the most important thing I did was to fix some play in the Y-axis carriage bearings that was allowing/causing the head to move up and down. I think what was happening was that the nozzle would be too low in some places, rub on the previous layer andby frankvdh - Printing