I also cant help solve this, but I have Ramps 1.4 and a custom LCD panel using Repetier firmware, and I am able to control over usb with the screen plugged in. So combining that with lazzymonks setup, your setup should technically work. Does reprapdiscount have a preconfigured firmware image that you could try to rule out a hardware issue?by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
I agree that it sounds like overheating. When it pauses, does it actually miss steps? What I mean is when it unpauses is it now printing in the wrong spot? This is most likely overheating, especially if it is happening repeatedly. To diagnose this what you can do is: 1. move your x axis -- this will activate the motor 2. After the move finishes, try to push the print head... you should feel rby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Just measured my drivers and the results are: 0.685v - Z 0.689v - Y 0.744v - X This gets me reliable 750mm/s/s acceleration and 180mm/s movement on my wantai 42byghw811 motors. It goes faster but will occasionally skip a step (probably a jerk setting, but my plastic wont lay down at 180mm/s and stick well, so my moves are the only 180mm/s that I do in daily printing. I have heatsinks and aby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
I have those exact motors and they are working fine with my pololu stepper drivers. They were not happy with the stepstick drivers, but the pololus drive them well. I will take measurements of my current settings, I set the current via trial-and-error - I turned them up until the motors didnt stall, then gave an extra 15 degree turn up. Working well for over 1 year, heatsinks and fan are on mby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Remember your bed watts are going to increase drastically as you increase your voltage. I think that power supply would be under-rated for the bed. Your bed resistance is set and can't be changed (unless of course, you change the bed). I will use my bed for example, which is the TrintiyLabs 24v 200w heater, which means it draws 8.3a @ 24v. V*A = W 24*8.3 = 200 Resistance (as given by Ohm'sby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for coming back and posting the solution. I have been following this thread since Feb, wondering what the heck could be wrong.by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
My vote for onboard drivers... I think having on-board drivers (or an option for on-board drivers) is a great idea for "the masses". There will always be certain edge cases (as identified above) where the onboard drivers will not work. I think the Smoothie board handles this well: there are onboard drivers but before the driver there is a breakout for step/direction/enable if you want to use aby mitchese - Controllers
+1 on what Cefiar said - sounds like a blown FET. Just curious, where did you get your RAMPS from and which bed heater do you have (how many watts)? What voltage are you running at?by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Cefiar: The RAMPS fan is an 80mm I rescued out of an old laser printer I took apart. 24v is a very common voltage in old (read mid-90s) laser printers which can often be had for free and have all kinds of other goodies in them. On my carriage I have a 60mm fan I got on Ebay for a song:by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
I conveted my mendelmax from 12-24v and my heatup times are much faster. I think it's worthwhile though I learned the hard way a few things. I popped one of my capacitors, they were rated for 16v, so check yours as cefiar suggested. I have a budaschnozzle and set my PID_MAX to 64 (see Configuration.h) and run it at the full 24v (I didn't disconnect the + side of the hotend and hook up to a 12vby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
For the future you should start a new thread about the test firmware. I just happened in here and noticed the new / different question. It has been a while since I have had the test firmware on my board, so this is from memory and might be a bit wrong, but overall should be correct. Your RAMPS board should have LEDs on it for the hot end, for the second hotend/fan and for the heated bed. Thesby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
It could be that your speeds that you are trying are different, and not limited properly in the firmware. For example, when you manually control it, you are saying "Move X from 0 to 100mm and go 5mm/second (very slow)". This is happily executed and works. When you go to print, the sliced version says "Move X from 0 to 100 at 500mm/second" and the motor stalls and buzzes and vibrates, because tby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
The polyfuses should reset themselves, though I've never overloaded them that much. You might not need to replace the polyfuses, because the short circuit happened before the current went through them. Can you post some pictures of the damage (top and bottom of the board please) and if there is any heavy black smoke damage if it can be wiped off that would be helpful too It might be enough ifby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
+1 on the loose wire theory - if you blow a driver it is usually because you unplugged a stepper while the driver was powered up. If a wire is loose between the driver and the stepper, this can have the same effect as unplugging, so check your wiring carefully. As for printing tips: Ensure your belts are tight to eliminate the little bits of unevenness in the parts If you have a fan, enable coby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
I had a power supply like yours and I did not need to do the resistor on the 5v rails - I just hooked the 12v yellow to the + in, and the black to the -. Shorting the green to black as you suggest will work. An easy upgrade is to hook the green wire to the "PS_ON" pin (it's next to the reset switch on the RAMPS board - take a piece of wire from PS_ON and hook it up to the green wire from your pby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
I would try the test firmware from here, if you are unsure about the baud rate. This firmware only drives your motors back and fourth endlessly, without paying attention to the thermistors or endstops. If the motors drive with this, then you can proceed with the actual firmware and then try and debug the issues that you are having with the actual firmware. If the motors do not turn with thisby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Before using Sprinter, I would give the RAMPS test firmware a go. You can download it here. Install it like you did Sprinter (open in Arduino and then upload it to the board). The test firmware will move your motors back and fourth without instruction from the computer, and without regard to endstop status. If this works, then you know your electronics is good, and you are dealing with a sofby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
In another forum I also came across someone who had some cold solder joints on the stepper driver causing issues. That could be another thing to check, otherwise I'm out of ideasby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
"The bed is ~2mm from bed" - I think you mean the nozzle is 2mm from the bed, in which case that is way to far! You need to lower the nozzle. Your nozzle needs to be just touching the bed when it is at zero.by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Can you be more specific with: >> here is no problem trying to power my heatbed and hotend seperately but the PSU would give and die out if I tried powering both so that earlier spark did a number on something and the only way to get it back up is to reinsert the green/blk wire. Is there a way to salvage this PSU or do I need to order a third one? First, what exactly sparked? It sounds lby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
You say you were messing around with your endstops. Depending on your firmware settings, the printer may refuse to move if it thinks it is at both the X MIN and X MAX endstop. If you send an M119, what is the ouptut? I can see this being the case if you have your X/Y endstops misconfigured but Z is fine. Also what jbernardis said, never attach or detach the motor or stepper while it is powereby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Without knowing what the "269-5G RA227" is on your Arduino, I can guess you have a short somewhere on your board, which is going to be difficult to trace. If the arduino is nonfunctional, it points to a problem with the 5v "vcc" to ground (this would also explain your part getting hot - if it's your voltage regulator it will get warm). Grab a multimeter and test the resistance between VCC and Gby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
What do you mean "not having the USB port run the arduino?" My setup is a bit more complicated. I have two power supplies, a 5v for a raspberry pi, and a 24v for everything else, which is split into 12v and 24v. 220vac comes in from the wall outlet and is divided into two parts, once to the 5v cellphone charger which is always on, and once to a relay which switches the 24v ps on/off (based on Mby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Why not hook the 24v unit up to RAMPS for only the bed? This is why RAMPS has two power inputs, one is for "everything but the bed" and the other is for the bed only. Then you have control of the temperature by RAMPS and using 24v. Perhaps a better solution, and if your board supports it, you can also run everything on 24v (though 10A might be a bit underpowered - I have 18A). Before doing thby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, when you say test firmware I assume you mean the RAMPS 1.4 test firmware which is great! It doesn't need a computer connection (other than for power), so your baudrate is not the problem if the motors arent moving with the test firmware. Do you notice any sound from the motors when it is running? Have you adjusted the potentiometers on the stepper drivers to increase the current? Do you hby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
It looks to me like crossed wires too, and my theory is one of the coil pairs is crossed. What I mean is, you "should" have the wires hooked up 1-2-3-4. If you swap the pairs, and go 3-4-1-2 this is not a problem, the motor just spins the opposite direction of what it would given 1-2-3-4. Swapping the pairs won't make a difference with this problem. What I think is happening is you have 2-1-3by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Which firmware, and is your firmware "motherboard" set to the correct value for extruder, bed, fan? Also, one of my fans does not work if the wires are backwards (I would have assumed it would have just spun in the opposite direction). Try reversing the wiresby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
It looks like they were sold by the GRRF, but discontinued. This original version of our DRV8825 stepper motor driver carrier has been replaced by a newer version that can more easily be used as a drop-in replacement for our A4988 stepper motor driver carriers. The only difference is that the newer version connects the sleep and fault lines through a resistor, making it more straightforward toby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Acetone is easy to find in Germany - check Bauhaus or Max Bahr. Both have it for around 4 euros, but it wont help you (in my opinion) with PLA. I have had good luck with Tesa Malerkrepp for outdoor. Be careful there are two kinds, one is shiny and thin, the other is more papery texture - use this one. My best luck is with: -205 C nozzle -55 C Bed tesa tape I use slic3r on the mac, and I useby mitchese - Printing
.ino and .pde are both arduino "projects". A while ago (few years maybe?) arduino switched from .ino to .pde -- this test firmware was written before the switch. If you open the .ino it will be converted to a pde which is (I think) simply renaming it. If that doesn't work, just rename it to pde and you should be good to go. --edit-- and good luck with your printer, if you get it working then pby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics