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Printing issues ...
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Hi again,
I tried a an old configuration file I had, (still using latest Repetier Host andf Slic3r) turned it on, and dammed if everything worked including am line in manual control for my heated bed.
Not sure what differred in this set-up, I'll do some more cheking and see what I can see.
For now all is well, again, thanks for your help.
Bob
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BobHewson
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Repetier
Hi Repetier,
Thanks for the suggestions, I invested in a powered USB hub, retried, still no success.
I went back to zero and reset all printer settings in Repetier Host. Baud rate is set at 115200 and is set to same rate using Control panel's Device manager (it has a range of settings 75 to 128000 for this port). Still no luck.
I sliced a project using Slic3r and have copied the 1st few line
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BobHewson
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Repetier
I have not used my Prusa/Mendel printer for several months. When last used it worked well using Repentier and Slic3r. It is in my workshop, dry, and dust free. When last used I used an older HP laptop with win 7.
In the interim my old computer died and my new HP laptop uses Win 8.1 and has 3 physical USB ports.
I have Repentier Ver 1.06 using Slic3r 1.1.7 on my computer now (I have updated m
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BobHewson
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Repetier
I have noticed a printing time error on several recent projects. Perhaps I have just not noticed before.
One project took about 1 hour longer to print than the G-code file's ppredicted ~3 hours. Another project to an extra 20 min when 2 hour 20 min was predicted.
What might it be that causes these errors? Can they be corrected?
If you are pricing a project and use estimated time to print r
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BobHewson
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Repetier
Thanks guys,
I'll recheck speeds to ensure they are not too high, recheck nozzles for irregularities, and look at retraction.
I have not done anything with retraction and have only the defaults in play. I will certainly check this function out further to understand it more.
I will monitor the actual temperature fluctuation over time, I feel its OK, but will track more closely for variation.
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BobHewson
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Printing
I have been having an ongoing problem with my printer since I first built it. The problem is printing air. The cause is filament stoppages.
I will be printing and everything is going well, so I leave and return later only to find my extruder has worked its way up the "Z" axis by about an inch and while it plods endlessly following the path dictated by the slicer there is no filament being depo
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BobHewson
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Printing
I have a drawing in both SVG and DFX formats, originally designed for laser cuting with 3mm plywood. I'd like to do the project with my 3D printer.
I first tried cleaning up the SVG drawing in Inkscape (I needed to make shape outlines continuous) and separated the parts as stand-alones. Sketchup wouldn't import the files.
Next I tried opening the DXF file directly in Sketchup 2014, successful
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BobHewson
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3D Design tools
I have been unable to get any decent photos to show the problem.
I have however resolved my problem.
My printer was built about 2 years ago and while it was not used for long periods it is still 2 years old. A number of problems had crept into the unit from sitting; loose nuts, and movement of the plastic parts under pressure, slack in drive belts.
I invested some time in re-leveling, re-squa
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BobHewson
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General
My printer was printing without this problem before, it is a recent but contiuously recurring problem.
I have had the problem in differing sized prints, and the problem occurs at the same height of the print i.e. about 1/8" above the bed and persists for about 1/16".
I have retuned my X,Y belts and relevelled everything, but while my prints have improved in genert the problem still exist.
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BobHewson
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General
Hi Alex,
I too have problems with top layers, bottom too. This thread helped somewhat. I made the following changes from default settings: Reworked my belts for "X" and "Y", used auto cooling, fill at 0.4, layer thickness 0.20, 1st layer height 150%, retraction at 3, Extrusion width at 0.4, angle for infill at 0, infill top and bottom concentric. Still have to try the threshold area adjutmen
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BobHewson
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Printing
I have tried fan on, fan off, fan auto, all without success, still have weak section and still at same "Z" height of the print. I have tried temeratures from 180C to 195C, also no success.
With this a continuing problem my printer is useless for making usefull items!
Am I the only one to have this problem?
Bob
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BobHewson
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General
I read somewhere that X, Y, Z, and E can be changed in Slic3r using g-codes instead of reflashing the I/O board for doing minor adjusttments.
Can anyone tell me if this can be done, how to do it, where to find more info on it?
Thanks,
Bob
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BobHewson
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Slic3r
Hi Alex,
So, what exactly did you end up doing to get the improvement shown?
Bob
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BobHewson
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Printing
Thanks Matt,
Strange that you should say that, I was searching the net for another solution and Google directed me to the Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide too just a few minutes ago. Looks like it was here all the time. A quick scan of the guide shows exactly what I was suggesting. No need to re-invent the wheel. Too bad I didn't find it earlier, could have saved myself some time and t
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BobHewson
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RepRap magazine
I have been "playing" around with my printer for months and have had more problems than I can count. I have returned to ground zero several time re-starting from scratch and am still no closer to getting good reproducable prints.
I find problems listed in the forum and solutions to try. I have asked for an recieved help many times. Many topics seem to just fade away and you never know if the
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BobHewson
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RepRap magazine
I have a fan directed at the extruder, above the heater. It is directed away from the printed part. It is controlled by Slic3r/Repentier.
My temperature is set to 185c (PLA) for entire print.
I have tried several prints with these results and while occuring at the same "Z" height the print would be reaching this point at different times of printing precluding something caused after a specific
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BobHewson
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General
I have a new problem (to me), when I print I get good solid structure for ~1/8" in the "Z" direction, then for the next approx 1/8" the structure is really weak. Then it returns to solid structure for the balance of the print. This is happening on tall and short item in the same relative position ie. starts at 1/8", continues for 1/8" then is OK.
Any sugggestions as to cause and cure?
Bob
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BobHewson
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General
I am using Slic3r 1.0
I have calibrated my extruder, I have been trying various width settings with slight improvement but still porous. I also changed back to 0.35 nozzle. Changes are showing slow movement towards non-porous print. Worst part is the "solid'' top lyers which are not solid but rather rough/uneven and porous.
Bob
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BobHewson
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General
I printed a steam train whistle (thingiverse item by MikeP-NZ) with my Prusa/mendel.
I followed the printing info on the project and had a few problems I could use some advice on.
My set-up was as follows"
Increased size by 1.25 (Plater setting in Slic3r) for larger deeper toned whistle
PLA 1.75mm, temp 185C, 60C on heated bed
Nozzle 0.50mm
Layer height 0.25mm
2 perimeters
3 layers top and bot
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BobHewson
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General
Thanks, I have made improvements in "hair" problem, but still a few.
Re-read RichRap's blogs and the new manual forSlicer and made a few changes. Seems when I switched extruders and re-flashed my i/o board it didn't "take". Found the problem and now am extruding much better.
Better control of extuded plasic has also resolved my color variation and weakness.
There is sure a learning curve wit
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BobHewson
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General
I have been trying to print a cone for use in a filament spool holder ("OSFA Filament Spool Holder" from Thingiverse).
Details:
Repentier and Slic3r, both latest versions.
Using PLA 1.75mm
Extusion temp 185C
Heated bed 60C
Nozzle is 0.50
Layer height 0.20
Fan is used, blowing on upper portion of hotend not the printed part.
Questions:
1)There are filaments going from one cone to the other pl
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BobHewson
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General
My way is a little more painful. Break your femur, be confined to hospital for up to 8 weeks until you can put weight on the leg and go home to my shop and printer (which I just stared printing good stuff with a new extruder one day before my accident).
THEN, use down time and a laptop to teach yourself Scad, FreeCad, Sketchup etc. Should be pretty proficient I hope by the tiime I go home.
B
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BobHewson
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General
I buy mine from little idependant neighbourhood Computer store. Price may be more than on eBay, but I can have it in 15 minutes.
Bob
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BobHewson
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General
Thanks for the suggestions which gave me some some avenues to pursue.
I found that the Arduino drivers had not survived the upgrade from Vista to Win 7, but are now back in place. My com ports got shuffled as well, and are now corrected.
I found a good site called that had some excellent step by step help in getting Arduino drivers and com ports straight.
All is well, now just need to instal
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BobHewson
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General
Can anyone help me on this one?
I just upgraded my laptop from Vista to Win 7
Am also upgrading my printer with a new Extruder/hotend (MixShop G-1)
I made necessary sprinter changes, compiled without problem, but
when uploading to i/o board I get the following messages.
First, I normally used comm 5, but computer said "no comm 5, OK to use comm 3" and I said yes
Then I recompiled again and u
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BobHewson
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General
Does anyone know the wattage of a printing Prusa/mendel printer with a single extruder?
Thanks
Bob
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BobHewson
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General
I had a similar problem and figured it was from too hot filament flow problem. I cut the temp and problem went away next try same item. I also cut speed back too at the same time.
Bob
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BobHewson
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General
Hi Polygonhell,
It is a pretty basic hot end, no name, came with kit. Consists of heater block, nozzle, threaded brass brass tube with hole for 1.75mm PLA, 15mm diam PTFE barrel with hole for PLA and the threaded brass rod. It is held in the extruder body by 4 screws applying a "pressure grip".
I have since modified this to take 2 bolts drilled through the PTFE instead of the pressure grip.
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BobHewson
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General
I have my Prusa/Mendel working now and starting to produce decent prints, BUT, I spend far too much time clearing filament jams in my extruder and hotend. Once cleaned out and restarted the print is usually OK, but at the end of the day or between prints it is necessary to shut down and on restart I will have a jam more often than not.
My current method is to have my fan cooling the area
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BobHewson
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General
Jatopa,
No, that is MixShop's new extruder for their new machine. MIne is the one shown in attached photo.
Attached a photo of my extruder hot end. It consists of a PTFE rod 16cm with a hole through for the filament. One end is drilled and tapped to 5mm to take a 6mm threaded brass rod with a hole through it. There is also a copper collar for both rigidity and as a heat sink for the PTFE tube.
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BobHewson
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General
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