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Printing issues ...
I've not tried Cura. There are two or three ways to accomplish this in Slic3r.
This one's also simple enough that if you're using absolute coordinates throughout you could also make two gcode files with different settings and use the parts of each that correspond to the Z layers where you want to use the corresponding settings.
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IMBoring25
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Printing
Questions can be better addressed with more details. If this is a Cartesian bot it almost has to be a mechanical issue with your X and Y axes not traveling orthogonally to each other.
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IMBoring25
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Printing
Make sure you don't have a heated bed temperature set in your g-code. Since you don't have a heated bed, it will never get there.
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IMBoring25
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General Mendel Topics
You can also try using the slow-down settings of your slicer, building a sacrificial column at the same time to kill time, or building another part along with it.
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IMBoring25
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Printing
The hot end typically has low thermal inertia and doesn't take long to get to temperature. You're probably waiting for your heated bed to come to temperature which, despite lower operating temperatures, takes much longer due to high thermal inertia.
You can:
1) Make sure the heated bed power is adjusted properly.
2) Experiment with lower heated bed temperatures and see if you still get satisf
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
According to the wiki:
The two identified changes from Sprinter that I'd consider to have the greatest likelihood of improving print quality would be the look-ahead and the ability to parse and print arcs as arcs...And it indicates EEPROM is also new on Marlin.
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IMBoring25
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General
I see lots of folks talk about the kinds of temperature you're talking about but I was getting charring on mine if I went over 205 extruder and 75 bed. With those numbers on clean Kapton over glass I do get corner lift if I don't zero the Z axis to get a little squeeze on the first layer. It gives a little elephant's foot but not much (and with ABS the sanding is easy as needed).
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IMBoring25
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Printing
You wouldn't think a RepRap kit company would throw the proprietary data card. The vendor from whom I got my kit makes their parts freely available on their website and encourages the practice by offering hardware kits that don't contain the plastics, but their parts would not be interchangeable with the ones on that machine.
There's nothing to keep you from getting a set of calipers, taking me
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IMBoring25
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General Mendel Topics
I've heard of that too but it doesn't work on my setup. I get deformation and charring on my light-colored ABS at temperatures far lower than that.
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
I remembered where it was...The Slic3r manual.
Many of the six reasons they give are machine dependent, filament dependent, mesh density dependent, or will change with wear and calibration of the machine.
I printed a high-poly-count hole test on my machine as I was closing out my first spool of PLA. My nominal 7.62mm hole (closest to your example 8mm) was 7.56mm. That you had a .55mm error
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
I read somewhere that that's actually intentional. Some effort was undertaken to do compensation for the various factors that make internal holes undersize but it was determined that there's always going to be variability and the holes could be fettled if small but if they were big you were out of luck. If you have something that must be net off the printer you'll need to figure out what size t
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
Do you have the ability to print from SD? If nothing else it would serve to do some diagnosis.
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IMBoring25
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Printing
Did you try things incrementally or did you jump straight to using all the adhesion tricks? 120 is really aggressive on the bed temperature and I haven't really seen need to experiment with the ABS slurry either. Most part configurations, I'm getting sufficient adhesion on plain Kapton at 80.
Are you waiting for the bed to cool before you attempt to remove the part?
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IMBoring25
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Printing
Sounds like 1.75 mm diameter filament, but actually measure it, as some is closer to spec than others.
Extruder multiplier takes the feedrate slicer thinks it needs and multiplies it by the extruder multiplier. At .9, it would extrude 90% of the material it thinks it needs. With a single extruder, it's a tweak setting if it seems like you're extruding too much or too little plastic. If you ev
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
It sounds like the hollow cube isn't allowing enough time for the plastic to set up between layers. Use the settings to slow down fast layers and/or activate a part fan, if you're so equipped.
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IMBoring25
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General Mendel Topics
My v6 that just arrived came with a Xinyujie XYJ12B3010H, which is rated 4.45 CFM.
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IMBoring25
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General
My hot end doesn't go to temperature until after the bed has reached temperature, but other than that, what you posted looks exactly like what mine does while the bed is heating up. I'm still new to explain why it might have changed. Did you change gcode programmers?
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
If it appears clean over the surface of the nozzle itself it should be clean enough. The time I had trouble I had a trail of filament residue obviously attached to the outside of the nozzle. I pulled the hot end off the machine and used a combination of (cold) scraping with a fingernail, scraping with a knife, and rubbing with an acetone towel with the hot end at somewhat elevated temperature.
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
Interesting input. It's the same kit as mine...He should have a hot end fan.
Follow up question...Did you follow the instructions that the hot end fan does NOT go in the connectors labeled fan, but instead is put in the main power connectors? Is it running 100% of the time?
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
It gives that readout while your bed is trying to reach temperature, which in your case it's never doing. Assuming your bed power connections are sound you have two options. Either take actions that make it easier for the bed to reach temperature (warmer room, enclosure, or thermally reflective material above and/or below the bed, though you must be sure not to short the bed) or try a bed tempe
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers
How about some details?
1) How long ago was the kit ordered? Did you build it per the instructions or make changes along the way?
2) Where you had options in the instructions, how did you do things? Did you line the bed with the supplied Kapton or try something else? Are you doing any tricks for adhesion?
3) What is the printer doing while it prints? That picture looks like it would be mak
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IMBoring25
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Reprappers