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move x axis home first or manually to the right the nozzle should be beside the bed now not directly above it do a z axis home it should come down beside the bed slide the extruder over if it hits the bed lift the z axis in manual mode raise the limit switch and repeat until homing the z is about 1 mm from bed then use the screw adjust on the z limit till you get 0.1 mm above the bed when you hom
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Roger123D
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Repetier
why don't you run autotune
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Roger123D
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Repetier
from what i see it is in mm
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Roger123D
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Repetier
and your hard drive ? is it solid state drive if not get one you will be amazed at the results
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Roger123D
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Repetier
my suggestion is to design the part yourself and give it dimensions you need thingyverse is ok for ideas but files iffy. What are you using to adjust those sizes you reslice?
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Roger123D
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Repetier
go to print settings in slic configure and try with default width 0 for auto first layer 100 % and all the rest zero for auto this has nothing to do with bed size this is in advanced settings if one of those setting is too high it gives an error.
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Roger123D
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Repetier
Just one thought make sure both supplies share a common ground
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Roger123D
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RAMPS Electronics
if you feel inrush is a problem use an inrush current limiter looks similar to a large thermistor Ametherm makes them its sort of a time delay surge suppressor
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Roger123D
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RAMPS Electronics
if you are not printing with ABS why bother with heated bed never use mine so many posts on people with heat bed problems all electric heaters draw lots of current save the juice for the hotend heater.
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Roger123D
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Reprappers
the serial ports must match as well as baud rate if using windows go to device manager and look at usb section one should specify the printer and check serial communications settings also look in add new hardware it should detect the printer most likely its a mismatch in baud rates plugging in the printer on a running computer then start printer program and do a connect command will show an err
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Roger123D
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Prusa i3 and variants
do a web search for ball screws places like thk bearings or thomson skf there are many with precision ground or rolled 6,8,10 etc ball screws that specify pitch diameter etc. The actual pitch you get isn't critical as long as you know what it is you can calibrate the firmware to match and ball screws are much smoother and more precise than threaded rods. I am trying to get some in canada there
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Roger123D
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Reprappers
this is a thermistor problem most likely a break in the wires going to the board an ohmmeter test on plug ends should show a resistance reading infinity indicates a bad wire or broken thermistor usually under the heavy insulation near the bead . wires can be fixed crushed bead needs replacing.
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Roger123D
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Printing
best bet get a set of nozzle drills and see what fits or make it size you want
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Roger123D
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Printing
try robotshop they have a laser head that mounts on xy frame
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Roger123D
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General
i agree forgot the step where you slice and generate the needed g code
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Roger123D
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General
turn off the heated bed use school glue on glass if possible and make sure the nozzle to bed gap is good too low it scrapes and extruder clicks stop the print tighten the bed down a little and retry until you get a line of filament to stick on the bed the first layer must stick or it will just curl around the nozzle and yes calibrate extruder and filament diameter I use 200 C first layer and 195
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Roger123D
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Reprappers
Many may advise against the Afinibot A3 but I am satisfied with mine as it came boxed with all needed parts and once assembled had no trouble printing right away. Of course expect your first month of printing to be extreme learning and failed prints but that will be with any printer you get. This is a chinese printer kit but they are not fly by night like many others out there. Instructions on bu
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Roger123D
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Reprappers
Trying to figure out what size of stepper motor to raise a steel linear rail and bearing block that weighs 2 or 3 lbs the bearing block alone weighs 0.5 Kg consisting of 1 running horizontal and two raising vertical being used for x and z axis or two steppers and lead screws ? Nema 23 , geared type trying to get high accuracy as the linear rails have good accuracy ratings? Belt size and motor t
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Roger123D
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Reprappers
clicking in that case is due to filament not melting fast enough for the speed you are trying to print at some filament types prefer slower speeds you could try higher temp setting
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Roger123D
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General
Two most likely causes the heater cartridge may be loose in the block ie the set screw that holds it in stripped or not tight then the thermistor is not making solid contact with the block some sit in a hole you can also coat both with heat sink grease and silicone thermistor bead into the hole. whether this is your sole problem it will make it head faster and read more accurate
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Roger123D
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Reprappers
Sounds like Z axis steppers are miswired especially if fed by one driver they use a series connection not a parallel double check their wiring
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Roger123D
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Prusa i3 and variants
There are way too many cheap printers out there and most lack support and I assume you have read all the horror stories re China and acrylics if you can afford precision linear slides and an all metal frame go that route and the E3D extruder that originates down under. I purchased an Afinibot A3 here in Canada made in China but it came complete all parts and still prints months later downside was
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Roger123D
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Prusa i3 and variants
Best solution is to buy extra thermistors and simply use a new one the wire may be broken especially under the thermal insulation. Bad thermistors and reading will keep a printer in dry run. You can find charts on the net that specify what resistance the thermistor is at a certain temp. As far as multimeters go they range 20$ to 2000 or more. For printers check out RobotShop under tools for one y
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Roger123D
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Prusa i3 and variants
Over time the resistance of a thermistor at a certain temperature can change especially if they get overheated or too much current goes through but as others stated it is not making as good of contact with the heater block as before like loose Kapton tape. Hot tubs usually show a lower than actual temperature letting water get too hot. Maybe reference resistor has changed also.
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Roger123D
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Printing
It would be better to redesign the part or print upside down or sideways or add your own supports in the design.Very rarely do I use any supports
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Roger123D
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Printing
check the extruder offset and make it zero
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Roger123D
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Printing
I found it best to disconnect from the net and run Repetier from fresh computer reboot and disconnect/ reconnect to the printer if either has been shut down or restarted. And as stated a separate computer is a good choice just for design and printing
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Roger123D
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Printing
While I have a heated bed I never use it and wonder why so many think they need it except in Antartica. Perhaps when using ABS but for PLA or PETG I never use it and things print fine. Unless the printer has a heavy duty PSU to heat the bed it simply robs power from the steppers and hotend and fans run slower. Eventually it even burns out board connections and MOSFETs and frustrates newbies. It i
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Roger123D
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Printing
From what I can see the original Prusia had a lot of plastic printed parts and threaded rod frames, so best to find an all metal frame version
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Roger123D
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Prusa i3 and variants
The MK8 is called an all metal extruder but its barrel still has PTFE liner as do most extruders even some E3D especially the 1.75 mm version. PTFE is not really a problem with PLA ABS plastics with lower melt temperatures below 230 C Things like Nylon require higher temperatures that melt the PTFE . To get an extruder for 500 C requires different thermistors and 24 volt power supply costs a coup
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Roger123D
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Prusa i3 and variants