Somebody posted a Hawaii relief map on Thingiverse, including a fortran program used to convert the relief data to STL. You may consider using that. EDIT: Forgot to include the link:by unicoder - Object repositories
Good idea. I found that I actually had a spare unassembled a4983, so I put that together and everything's working great. Wow, when did those boards get so cheap? That's really great, I'll have to upgrade my discontinued boards at some point.by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I had a component on my Pololu fry or something. I have no idea whats wrong, but it seems to still be working. Earlier today I was printing something and halfway through a bunch of steps were missed on the X-axis, but then the print immediately went back to normal. So the first half of the print is in the right spot, the second half shifted over. When I discovered this I noticed the distby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
So just to be sure I understand you correctly, these are all types of 624 and should work correctly, and there is no such thing as a 624 without a suffix?by unicoder - Mendel90
My apologies if this is a dumb question (and I did search for the answer, I promise), but are 624 bearings the same as (or at least compatible with) 624Z? When I search for it, I find 624Z, 624ZZ, even 6242Z, but no 624.by unicoder - Mendel90
Thanks! That looks much better. I created a quick pull request with the change so it won't get forgotten.by unicoder - Mendel90
When I change the config to GT2 belts and pulleys and load up main.scad, the belts aren't quite aligned with the pullies. Is that just a bug in the presentation or are there problems with using this hardware?by unicoder - Mendel90
Thank you all for the great advice. I think I'm all set for my minimum bend radius enforcing material now.by unicoder - Mendel90
I think I just found another good alternative. I took a look at the bottom of a large tub of Smart Balance (margarine) and next to the recycle symbol it has a PP. I assume that stands for polypropylene? I cut it apart and found that I could get strips up to around 420 mm around the circumference. It's quite flexible and the thickness is around 0.54 mm. Too bad it's still not long enough for usingby unicoder - Mendel90
Quotecdru When I was looking for something suitable, I found the thin sheets used as cutting mats perfect, they bend pretty easily but keep a decent radius while also supporting the ribbon. Should be able to find one pretty cheap at most stores that sell housewares. Now that seems like a great idea. They come in pretty large sizes too, so there would be no need to splice two pieces together. Nopby unicoder - Mendel90
QuotenopheadI made my prototype machines from strips cut from an A4 binder. The long one was two stapled together. Can you elaborate on this? Which part of an A4 binder is made from polypropylene?by unicoder - Mendel90
Thanks for the suggestions. Would this work? Of course, I would have to splice some strips together, whether by stapling or kapton tape. BTW, what is the purpose of the polypropylene sheets? Maybe it would be obvious to someone with more electronics know-how, but it's not at all obvious to me and I can't find any information about it in the wiki.by unicoder - Mendel90
Can anyone tell me where I can source the 0.5mm polypropylene sheets in the US? I have looked and looked online and can't find it sold in small quantities.by unicoder - Mendel90
I've noticed that when I print with the natural PLA, it's level of translucency changes throughout the print. I have seen areas of nearly complete transparency and I would like to know how to replicate that. From what I can tell it seems to depend on one or two factors: 1. The temperature of the print. I bet this is the strongest factor. As the temperature of the hotend fluctuates through the priby unicoder - Printing
I found the solution. I had to remove the comments from the gcode files.by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
When I upload a file through pronterface and do a print from SD everything works normally. However, if I try to print from SD a file I put on the SD card manually just using the OS, the printer behaves totally differently. It moves to the center much slower than usual, then after the first layer z jumps up what looks like a centimeter before continuing to print as normal! How can this happen? Isby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Thank you both for your comments. I should have also mentioned I guess that before doing this maintenance I used this very same power supply for hours and hours of successful printing with the heated bed. That said I did measure the resistance of my heated bed to be about 2 Ohms, so I guess that means it will draw 6 Amps? The nozzle heater draws far less so I suppose that explains why I can powerby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Hey folks, I need a little help here. Something strange is going on, I'm not sure if it's a problem with my RAMPS board or my PSU. First, my stats: RAMPS v1.2 12v 20amp generic PSU Prusa's PCB Heatbed from Ultimachine.com Latest Sprinter Now, some back story. I recently took everything apart for some maintenance and upgrades. I replaced some RP parts and added a SDRAMPS board to the RAMPS. Sincby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Nudel, of course I know and love your comics. My favorite is #11, I literally laughed out loud when I read it. Good jokes guysby unicoder - General
How many 3D printer operators does it take to change a light bulb? Well let's see, first we need to redesign the light bulb socket and the light bulb itself. Then we'll need to prototype a light bulb changing tool... ----- I came up with that one today. Can you guys help with another one? Finish this joke: A RepRap, an Ultimaker, and a Makerbot walk into a bar... ----- Anyone have any otherby unicoder - General
I've tried different baud rates and nothing has worked for me. The best solution I have found so far is to hack Printrun to detect a pause and kick the printer back to action. You can find it here: It works pretty well for me, there is a slight pause (a few seconds) every once in a while, but at least the print will continue automatically. I was warned by Kliment that this would not work well wby unicoder - General
I've done a little experimentation and found a good formula that works for me. 0.35 infill 4 fully filled layers top and bottom 4/3/3 on the perimiter settings No fan under any circumstances! Please try it and let me know if it works for you.by unicoder - Reprappers
Sweet, I think I can do that without destroying my board. Actually I just realized the SDRamps I ordered from ultimachine also came with headers and pins. The connectors currently on my arduino are breakaway, so I will just break off what I need and replace with passthrough connectors and stack the headers on there.by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
OK, sorry I'm a little slow with stuff. I believe I have pieced this together with various comments from the forums along with wiki pages. I found this picture about testing the SDRamps: That was my big clue. So I'm guessing that Ramps 1.3 routes those connections just over to the other side of that corner, as in this picture: and Ramps 1.2 doesn't do anything with them? In that case, with mby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Really? For me it's at least six bolts away because one of the mount bolts is buried under the extruder motor, how did you fix that? Still I'd prefer to eliminate the bolts, isn't that part of what the Reprap project is all about? That's also what I like about Prusa's imlementation, no magnets required.by unicoder - General Mendel Topics
Prusa has .scad code for a snap-in x-carriage (the code is in the github repository), but I can't find the code for the snap-in extruder to match. Has anybody made this?by unicoder - General Mendel Topics
Can you post a picture of what you've done?by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
The picture in the wiki (http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Connectsdramp1.jpg) shows the SD card plugged in to the lower right corner. My 1.2 has connectors for thermistors in that spot. Is there another place I need to hook up the SD card to?by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just tried pronterface.py in Kliment Printrun > and seems to work well in MacOS 10.5.8 and WinXP. > I would like to install the SD Card shield in > RAMPS 1.2. Are the instructions ready for release > yet or is there a kit or ready to use option? Sorry for resurrecting a seemingly dead thread. Brnrd, I gatherby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
What's the trick to printing something that is water tight? Extra solid layers on the top and bottom? High infill? I printed a shot glass with my default settings and, even though it looked good, I was surprised to find that it slowly leaked water (very slowly mind you, I didn't notice until the next day)by unicoder - Reprappers