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Robots, children's blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Here's my idea and here's the [[page]] on RepRap's wiki where we can log in and click "edit".
Rostock geometry - 10 years ago
Hi, I am trying to set up my Rostock in the modified Marlin firmware, but my geometry is slightly non standard*. In configuration.h DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET refer to the distance from the center of the build plane to the center of either: A) each smooth rod. or the mid pint of each rod pair. * I used the screw hole for the Motor end and idler end as the smooth rod positions Duh! Mikeby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: Computer, what's good and bad? - 10 years ago
Having looked for other answers I discovered that Marlin will do enough for the time being. Hopefully, Arduino 1.0.3 will soon be available along with a set of dependancies that will compile Repetier and not mess up my computer. Meanwhile, the jcrocholl fork of Marlin will compile and upload. So I won't be needing a new computer yet - shame as I was beginning to look forward to it. Mikeby leadinglights - General
Re: Arduino/Repetier compiler error - 10 years ago
Returning to this after trying many other avanues, I still get the following when I try to compile Repetier 0.81 with Arduino 1.0.1 running on Ubuntu 12.10 gcode.cpp:91:41:error: attempt to use poisoned "SIG_USART_RECV" gcode.cpp:101:15:error: attempt to use poisoned "SIG_USART_RECV" Marlin and Repetier 0.71 both compile and upload sucessfully. Any Thoughts?by leadinglights - Repetier
Re: Computer, what's good and bad? - 10 years ago
Before going shopping tomorrow I will try something a little different. I have just downloaded Fedora Linux - it is a bit of grasping at straws, but not knowing where the bug lies it may work. Before trying the Fedora, I will try launching Arduino from a terminal -- with a great deal of trepidation lest it sets me off on another goose chase (which goose was frightened away by the sound of me banby leadinglights - General
Re: Computer, what's good and bad? - 10 years ago
Hi xclusive585, Nobody at the moment seems to be having the problems of a few years ago when the forums were full of which version worked on different computers and which libraries were needed. Sadly, my computer is having none of it. I don't doubt that there is a parameter somewhere that needs to be set to make it all work, but too many hours have been spent looking for it so the old computerby leadinglights - General
Re: Computer, what's good and bad? - 10 years ago
Hi Jasper1984 & others, Installed many different ways, starting with the Ubuntu standard method and on to others, loading dependancies as necessary. failures on Arduino 1.0.1 are simple compiler problems like: Extruder.cpp:32:1: error: ‘prog_char’ does not name a type occured after first installing Arduino and Repetier 0.81 sketch and trying to upload. After updating Ubuntu the errors becameby leadinglights - General
Computer, what's good and bad? - 10 years ago
Hi, I have almost finished my second printer, a Rostock, which is sitting looking really cool in black, perspex and stainless steel - but motionless. The problem is that while I have an old computer for it, I can't get Arduino running under Ubuntu. It seems to be something to do with gcc - but is more subtle and may involve the hardware and drivers. The upshot is that it is now, after two weekby leadinglights - General
Re: Extruder Nozzle Drilling 0.3mm hole - 10 years ago
Having drilled holes down to 0.2mm (or 0.15mm unsuccessfully) on both a Proxxon MF70 CNC mill and an antique Meddings sensitive drill, the best advise is to think tiny amounts of feed and pressure, but keep the speed high - I use 6000 to 12000RPM. Each peck should be around 0.1mm to 0.25mm and take about a second backing off very slightly each peck and withdrawing the bit fully every 4 or 5 pecksby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: Arduino/Repetier compiler error - 10 years ago
So far, little success. loading the Repetier sketch in Arduino. All attempts to use Arduino 1.0.3 start well, but devolve into Arduino freezing - and then Ubuntu becoming unusable - 20 second response to mouse clicks and many other problems each time doing an erase and clean installation of Ubuntu 12.10 seems the quickest way to go. Starting with a fresh installation of Ubuntu, with only Arduinoby leadinglights - Repetier
Re: Arduino/Repetier compiler error - 10 years ago
Repetier compiled and installed fine the first couple of times, but the next time I switched on the computer it had fouled up completely - in fact so badly that I am now reinstalling Ubuntu to get rid of errors that my thrashing about have introduced. So, the best way out seems to be to install the Arduino 1.0.1 - which seems to be O.K. with many Repetier users, and find out why it reports thesby leadinglights - Repetier
Re: Arduino/Repetier compiler error - 10 years ago
Fixed I think!?!. I downloaded Arduino 1.0.3 and Repetier seems to compile and upload O.K. Now for trying to configure it.by leadinglights - Repetier
Arduino/Repetier compiler error - 10 years ago
When I attempt to upload Repetier firmware to my Arduino/Ramps 1.4, I get the following errors:- Extruder.cpp:32:1: error: ‘prog_char’ does not name a type Extruder.cpp:33:1: error: ‘prog_char’ does not name a type Extruder.cpp:72:4: error: ‘ext0_select_cmd’ was not declared in this scope Extruder.cpp:72:20: error: ‘ext0_deselect_cmd’ was not declared in this scope Additby leadinglights - Repetier
Re: ABS on Glass with abs juice - 10 years ago
A bit more to add to the info-pool. I presently use Rustin's thinners which I had laying around and it releases quite well and consistently. A sharpish blow at the base of the object gets it off of the Kapton tape. I had temporary success with both Isopropyl Alcohol and Flent's lens tissues (probably also Isopropyl Alcohol) but after a few print the adhesion reduced and no amount of alcohol cleanby leadinglights - Reprappers
nozzle geometry and filament bukcling. - 10 years ago
For some time I have been getting buckling of the feed filament in my extruder. Fiddling around with the various settings, temperature etc., seems to cure it for a while, but it keeps coming back. Although it seems to be fairly free when I push filament therough by hand, during a print there comes a point when the back pressure increases sharply, buckling the filament, but returning to normal ifby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: Hotend with ceramic parts - 10 years ago
When I first started building a 3D printer I looked at several materials to make the hot end insulator from, but settled for the time being on PEEK. However, your explorations have got me looking at one that I considered before - cuttlefish bone. I have just tried out cuttlefish bone for it's thermal properties and was mightily impressed: I set up a block of cuttlefish bone 25mm thick with a 25mby leadinglights - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: Filament knotting in extruder - 10 years ago
Hi Lawrence, Although the problem hasn't ever completely gone away, it was due to back pressure from the 0.25mm nozzle. Main cure was increasing the temperature to 230 degrees although 235 was needed on one print recently. I am waiting for some 0.3mm carbide PCB drill bits to make a slightly bigger nozzle - already made nozzles of 0.2mm and 0.15mm will have to wait for me to really come to gripsby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: My print has mange - 10 years ago
Width is 0.35mm for perimeters and infill, 0.5mm for first layer. I have now done 5 of the test pieces and the main deterioration in quality seems to appear with increasing the temperature above 230 degrees: 220 degrees = nicest finish, but possible buckling of filament. Althogh one sample of ABS does seem to be better than the other, the difference is only slight. Called away to do Christmassyby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: My print has mange - 10 years ago
The problem seem to be in bands on the print. I have attached a photo showing this. I have checked quite a long length of the filament and the diameter measures from 1.688 to1.822mm (old Moore and Wright micrometer measuring in 0.002mm increments) As that seems to be a bit over the +/- 0.05mm that most suppliers promise, could that be the cause of the problem? I had forgotton that I changed theby leadinglights - Reprappers
My print has mange - 10 years ago
I had a persistant problem with buckling of filament in my extruder and Nophead kindly pointed me towards the cause - bcak pressure from my 0.25mm nozzle, combined with the Wade's extruder not being really 1.17mm filament friendly. I made a few engineering modifications and increased the hot end temperature to 240 degrees - I had been using 220 degrees, but my first new pring seems to suffer fromby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: Filament knotting in extruder - 10 years ago
Hi Dirty Steve, That was pretty much what I meant about the spiggot Sorry the photo isn't clear, but PTFE is too white to photo well. The spiggot has a 2mm hole for the 1.75mm filament. Mikeby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: Lubricating LM8UU/LM10UU bearings - 10 years ago
I think you should avoid the PTFE based greases or thick, high temperature greases like wheel bearing grease as they may stop the balls re-circulating. White lithium grease should be good. A while ago though, I read that you shouldn't use spray lubricants on any linear ball bearings - possibly they contain an agent that helps them spray evenly but does no good to precision ball bearings. Althougby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: Filament knotting in extruder - 10 years ago
Hi nophead, Thanks for the quick answer. I have done some quick modifications to see if I can knock solve this. I have a PTFE adaptor between the heatsink of the hot end with a 4mm dia spiggot which extends through the Wades block. I have extended this spiggot to almost touch the hobbed bolt - cut away to just miss the idler bearing. I had previously dropped the temperature of the hot end fromby leadinglights - Reprappers
Filament knotting in extruder - 10 years ago
I am plagued by an intractable problem, many prints are destroyed by the filament getting knotted in the extruder, just after the hobbed bolt. I have checked the forum for likely answers and eliminated them all as problems. Temperature at the hobbed bolt is normally 31 degtrees C, never more than 35 degrees Alignment of the hobbed area on the bolt is pretty much central (see photos attached) Thby leadinglights - Reprappers
Re: Filament jamming in extruder - 10 years ago
Wrong!! I had several more repeats, but this time I think I have run the miscreant to ground. The hobbed bolt (pretty standard Wades extruder) was sticking about one millimeter below it's final resting position when I lined it up with the filament. Because my extruder is not the most visable I did not notice that when the nuts on the hobbed bolt were tightned it moved further down. The moral isby leadinglights - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: USB communication reliability - 10 years ago
I think, or hope, that I have found the problem. I seem to remeber that Windows is pretty much incompetent when it comes to serial communications and it seemed to be Windows that was not trying to communicaate - even after shutting down Pronterface and restarting it an couple of times. Only after rebooting the computer could Windows talk to Pronterface. What I have tried for the moment is to resby leadinglights - Controllers
Re: USB communication reliability - 10 years ago
Hi Cefiar, Although I havn't totally dismissed noise on the lines, I have the mains to that end of my workshop fed through a big Schaffner filter, ditto the flourescent lights. Power supplies are 24V 10A switch mode for the motors & hot end. Hotbed is temporarily fed through a big analogue Digimess power supply as it needs 16V to get up to 110 degrees and the USB cable is 1M screened cable (by leadinglights - Controllers
USB communication reliability - 10 years ago
I have had several occurances of a print stopping for no known reason. Pronterface will respond to commands such as PAUSE or RESUME, at least until a motor command is sent - when it will display an hourglass forever. There is no warning from either window of Pronterface, or from MS windows of anything being wrong. Can anybody tell me what can be going wrong - and how to prevent it happening agaiby leadinglights - Controllers
Re: Filament jamming in extruder - 10 years ago
I think that I may have found the problem and have described what seems to be happening in case it helps anybody else. After I had this problem I replaced the hobbed bolt with a somewhat different design and seemed to have no further problems for a while. I have attached photos of the original hobbed bolt and a new one with teeth on the shoulders only . The new hobbed bolt worked fine with oneby leadinglights - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Filament jamming in extruder - 10 years ago
Subject as above. I have checked all of the usual suspects - but with no luck. I had done about 40 hours of printing; Yoda-Lite, Screwing Jewlery Boxes etc., without problem before I got a jam and now can't get more than a few layers without it fouling up. The 1.75mm ABS filament is knotting up directly after the hobbed bolt. The temperature in this region is not above 35 degrees C and the bolt iby leadinglights - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: Geometry of nozzle - 11 years ago
Thankyou Nophead and Marnargulus - I apologise for not replying sooner but my employers have been keeping me busy. While I am waiting for a delivery of ABS and PLA filament, I have been trying to build a hot end with rapidly replacable nozzles; the present design has a silver steel nozzle clamped in a purpose made heatsink. this seems to work quite well and the cold end of the steel nozzle mainby leadinglights - Plastic Extruder Working Group