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Have you tried bolting a dremel or router to your RepRap? Can you engrave and drill PCBs? Or cut wood, or ... steel? (Or do you have a commercial mill or CNC router?)
Re: Open source CNC Plasma cutting table? - 7 years ago
Looks pretty good. I'll look into it. I'm hoping to complete this project this year to expand my business.by Phizinza - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Re: Going from Prusa Heatbed MK2 to MK2b problem - 9 years ago
Quoteimqqmi My guess is that your previous board tracks were too thin, and failed at some point, but could produce higher temperatures. I was thinking about this yesterday, surely thinner would increase resistance and therefor decrease current flow??by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Going from Prusa Heatbed MK2 to MK2b problem - 9 years ago
After some research I found a site that explained how to voltage mod an ATX PSU that seemed to line up with similar components to what mine had. (http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/variable-atx-power-supply.58707/) The TL431 they speak of was a KIA 431A on my PSU. There was 3 in total, one looked to be on the 3.3v line, the one I have labled in my photo had the resistors which connected toby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Going from Prusa Heatbed MK2 to MK2b problem - 9 years ago
I have not adjusted any PID values but I can see and hear the fet is on continuously and the bed stops getting hotter at 93 degrees (with the glass on). As I said earlier the bed, both old and new, have the rear insulated. I found a site with details on modifying ATX PSU's that use a three pin 431 IC as a voltage reference. Looks like I have to put a potentiometer in with the resistors on thatby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Going from Prusa Heatbed MK2 to MK2b problem - 9 years ago
I have gen 7 electrics. I'm happy to try and make the PSU pump more through the 12v one but I don't want to cook my gen 7. Currently with no draw the 12v is at 12.4v I believe. What do I look for in the PSU? I one want to spend much on this printer as I would just like to keep it as a backup once I build a new better one (when ever I get the time for that...)by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Going from Prusa Heatbed MK2 to MK2b problem - 9 years ago
Thanks for the quick reply. Back when I built this printer 4 years ago it didn't seem like anyone had the issue of 12v heatbeds not being able to get to 110 degree working temp. I did insulate it using the backing of a picture frame and a couple of layers of silicone baking tray. This helped speed the heating on the old bed up but it's not helping this bed. I'm using a PC 480w PSU, not sure if Iby Phizinza - Reprappers
Going from Prusa Heatbed MK2 to MK2b problem - 9 years ago
My MK2 12v only heatbed shorted out and burnt, breaking the piece of glass I was using. I ordered a MK2b 12v/24v headbed from LearCNC and after replacing the wires it came with for decent ones I can only get it to 98 degrees (even without the glass). My PSU is at 11.88v with the bed on, the bed is at 11.7v with a 0.09v drop over the wire. The rest of the voltage drop (0.09v) is through the MOSFETby Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: 1.2 not slicing perimeters round? - 9 years ago
I used the repair tool in NetFabb, ran it back through Slic3r and it comes out with the exact same results.by Phizinza - Slic3r
1.2 not slicing perimeters round? - 9 years ago
I found when slicing a completely round object with no infill and 2 perimeters 1.2.1 is giving strange results while 0.9.9 is working well. See the picture.by Phizinza - Slic3r
Re: My ABS won't dissolve into Acetone? - PVC i think - 10 years ago
I ended up using glue stick glue, works well. I wet it while I apply until I can see a visible layer of the glue. I wet it so it doesn't leave a texture. Not perfect, but I don't expect much out of my old machine or DIY 3D printing in general.by Phizinza - Reprappers
Re: Delta printers, update me please - 10 years ago
Can a heated platform be added? I print mostly in ABS. Also can Spectra line be used in place of the GT2 belts, just to keep costs down? Thank youby Phizinza - Delta Machines
Re: Delta printers, update me please - 10 years ago
Thank you. Could you give a summary of the advantages to your design?by Phizinza - Delta Machines
Delta printers, update me please - 10 years ago
Hi, I've been out of the loop for around a year now... My first and only printer was a Prusa mk1, Gen7, Teacup (then Marlin), J-head. I wanted to build a Delta and the last plans I had were for a Reprap 3DR, RUMBA electronics, possibly convert to 3 head printing down the track. At that time I believe the only firmware that wasn't extremely experimental was Marlin modded to delta. So what I waby Phizinza - Delta Machines
How many Nema17's could an A4988 run? - 11 years ago
Say if I were to build multiple delta printers and wanted to run them all at the same time printing the same thing, how many could run off the same electronics? Could I run 4 steppers off the same controller? I am under the impression we don't use all the torque a Nema17 can supply and delta printers are even lighter on the motors...?by Phizinza - Controllers
Marlin is doing short pauses between some moves - 11 years ago
Not sure what this is and its showing down my batch printing a fair bit. Ever since I changed over from Teacup to Marlin I get these sort pauses. Its like the printer is still moving but very very slowly and the motor hums. Any idea what it is and if its solvable?by Phizinza - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Pro's and Con's of Delta printers? - 11 years ago
But what use is a large build area when warping limits to small parts? The largest things I have been able to print are 30mm x 140mm and 60mm x 80mm. Anything larger I have tried warps.by Phizinza - Delta Machines
Re: Building the Prusa Mendel i3 - 11 years ago
I used the wiki's vitamin lists when I built my Prusa. I also bought a kit which came with some different parts (bearings and pulleys which weren't standard). I just looked through the build instructions and worked out what I had on my buy list and what I needed to add.by Phizinza - Reprappers
Gcode-arcs in Windows GUI? - 11 years ago
Just wondering why I can't find a button to enable gcode-arcs in the Windows version GUI?by Phizinza - Slic3r
When using less than 100% infill it is too thin and misses bits - 11 years ago
So in the past I've usually printed at 100% infill because what I was printing needed to be strong. But what i am tryign to print now is a prototype and needs to print in less time than 6 hours like it would with 100% infill. So I've choosen 30% infill. Printing 0.4 width, 0.25 height, 0.35 nozzle. The infill strands are approximately 0.25mm wide, sometimes missing bits and with blobs at theby Phizinza - Printing
Re: Prints with ABS have a corner curling, same corner every time - 11 years ago
Here is a test I made up which always does the same corner issue. I included a photo of it. At the bottom of the photo is the bottom of the print. The tower is a 45 degree overhang. Near the top of the tower it looks good, this is because of the fan (I turned it on at that point in the tower. The bottom doesn't look as good as mid way up because it was lower temp, I started at 210, went to 230 anby Phizinza - Printing
Pro's and Con's of Delta printers? - 11 years ago
I love the look of these printers.. And I want to build one. But I'd like to know of the pro's and con's they have over the usual printers such as my Prusa with sliding bed, sliding X carriage and print head lifting Z axis? Thanks, Phizby Phizinza - Delta Machines
Re: Prints with ABS have a corner curling, same corner every time - 11 years ago
I think the problem is always the corners where even from a slight overhang come back around to straight on top of the previous layer. As I rotated a print 180 degrees on the bed and the dodgy corner is the same one on the print, not on the printer. If that didn't make sense, I don';t blame you. I haven't eaten in over 38 hours due to having gastro and am pretty wiped out / tired. So the corneby Phizinza - Printing
Re: Using fan to help overhang and sharp corners? - 11 years ago
With the fan running my parts are weak as they don't fuse between layers properly. Without the fan 90degree corners and small arcs such as 3mm radius lift up. What I want is to run the fan for short periods only while printing the perimeter of those small arcs and 90 degree angles.by Phizinza - General
Using fan to help overhang and sharp corners? - 11 years ago
Hi, I'm using Slic3r at the moment to generate the g-code but its cooling options are limited (getting better each version though). I find that when I run my 40mm fan on full models come out much smoother/cleaner/tidier. But at the cost of strength. They break between the layers pretty easily. So I am wondering if there is a slicing tool that can turn the fan on for the moments when the print heby Phizinza - General
Marlin acceleration and jerk settings help - 11 years ago
Hi, I have Marlin on my Prusa w/gen7. I have an issue where on sharp corners I get lifting and so far the only thing I found to help is slowing down the print. What I would like to do is keep the printing fast but on sharp corners slow it down. Am I able to achieve this using the acceleration and jerk settings in Marlin? These settings have worked well for me for everything but sharp cornerby Phizinza - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Chinese Stepsticks vs Branded Pololu's? - 11 years ago
Has anyone tried the DRV8825 drivers?by Phizinza - General
Re: Prints with ABS have a corner curling, same corner every time - 11 years ago
I'll test out the anti ooze stuff, thanks. It's not bed levelling or bed adhesion related as it can happen higher up an object with no sign of corners lifting off the bed. It also happens on small parts sticking out the top of larger parts.by Phizinza - Printing
Re: Chinese Stepsticks vs Branded Pololu's? - 11 years ago
Thanks, I'll look into themby Phizinza - General