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A short or break in the second extruder's heater circuit? One thing to look at closely is where the wires enter the cartridge. If they have been bent and straightened a few times, the wire breaks and only conducts when in a specific position. Another possibility is that only some strands break and splay out and then short to the other conductor. This would only have an effect when that heater was
by
frankvdh
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Prusa i3 and variants
What is the temperature of the motors themselves? If they overheat, you can also get missed steps.
When printing at the outside edge of the bed, one or two steppers will be doing a *lot* of movement for very little movement of the effector, so will tend to heat up more.
by
frankvdh
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Delta Machines
Try lubricating your rods and leadscrews. I use silicone spray, and it makes a huge difference.
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frankvdh
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Printing
Before replacing the board again, I'd do a bit of debugging. It seems unlikely that a gummed up hotend or overrunning a stepper axis would kill the controller board logic. It's also unlikely that a brand new board would be faulty. So the fault probably lies elsewhere.
First thing: is there power on your controller board? Is the power LED lit? It could also be that in the gumming up of the hotend
by
frankvdh
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Prusa i3 and variants
If you look for stereographic projections, you might get some ideas: e.g.
Here's my collection of stereographic designs on Thingiverse:
by
frankvdh
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General
QuoteVagulus
Checking the gCode for a print (I am no expert in gCode) I found no 'T1' command. In inserted a 'T0' into the startup code and the model printed with the Left Extruder as it should. N.B.: I made sure that the 'T1' command was not countermanded further down the code.
In the gcode file you shared, lines 12, 43, 48, ...
Just use a text editor (I use Notepad++) to search for T1
Quote
by
frankvdh
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General
It would be easier for me to help you if you provide more information. If you just give me one-liners, I'll have to ask you for more information.
In G-code, indexes start from 0, so your first extruder is E0, second is E1, etc. So try changing the T1 to T0. See for good information about G-codes.
So the printer itself works OK with ideaMaker? But the inconsistencies are in the way it slices? C
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frankvdh
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General
From [3dprinting.com]
QuoteAfter you unpacked the 3D printer successfully and completed the initial hardware setup, you install Raise3D’s own slicer software ideaMaker. The ideaMaker installation is not difficult and also step-by-step described in the quick start guide.
The only thing you need to do now is loading the filament in the 3D printer. This is done by following the instructions on the
by
frankvdh
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General
Maybe your bed is already level? Otherwise, you should see your Z steppers also turning as the nozzle moves in the X and/or Y direction, to compensate for the out-of-levelness of the bed.
As others have said, the levelling is done by the firmware, so Pronterface will send the nozzle to a point in 3D space, but the firmware will send it to somewhere else, depending on the slope of the bed. "Somew
by
frankvdh
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Firmware - Marlin
I had a similar belt anchor on one of my printers. The issues I had were (1) the clamp tended to open over time (you need to print it with thick sides), (2) you need good accuracy on the print (too tight and the two belts won't fit in the slot, too loose and they slip). It would be a good idea to chamfer the edges of the slot to make it easier to get the belts in. Presumably the M4 socket cap scr
by
frankvdh
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Developers
I found the beeper too loud for my liking...a piece of paper stuck to it quietened it down hugely.
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frankvdh
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General
QuoteDizzwold
My ambition's with 3d printing are to print 1:50 scale model parts ‘to start with anyway’, so I'll be looking for accuracy and detail more than speed
You might want to consider resin printers rather than filament.
They're still a bit more expensive to buy (but prices are dropping), and resin is more expensive than filament, but I'm told they produce better products.
0.2mm nozzle
by
frankvdh
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General
+1 for the micro-SD card, or also maybe a USB stick or mini-CD.
Otherwise, I'd scout AliExpress for the same printer photo... you might be able to find instructions that way. Or use Tineye.com to search the Net for that photo.
Also try this forum which is for Prusa variants... maybe maybe someone will recognise the photo there.
by
frankvdh
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General
I've just set up my new 3018 CNC/laser cutter. It came with Grbl firmware which I upgraded to the latest version, so I'm currently using LaserGrbl software to control it. But I'm wondering if there is better software and/or firmware out there? For example, I see people here talking about Marlin, but I wasn't aware that was suitable for CNC milling and laser cutting. And presumably Grbl-oriented s
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frankvdh
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Laser Cutter Working Group
I had a thought that I could use my newly acquired laser cutter/engraver to smooth the surface of 3D-printed objects... run the laser across or along the layers to melt the surface of the PLA so that it fuses together better.
Ideally the laser module would be moved by the same mechanism (maybe as an exchangeable tool?) so that there wouldn't be any positioning errors, I guess. But perhaps with a
by
frankvdh
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Laser Cutter Working Group
As you say, the other two carriages change direction as you cross the edge of the triangle.
Your maximum extent is when one of the rods is horizontal i.e. an arc with a radius of your rod length and centred on the ball-joint of that tower. The maximum length of a rod is then the distance between the towers, less a bit for the size of the effector. If you were careful with your object design and
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frankvdh
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Delta Machines
Quotedeckingman
[Water cooling - I'd need to fit jackets around the heat sinks so I doubt very much if I could get them much closer. Besides, there is only about 3mm clearance between the hexagonal part of the heat sinks so I can't them much closer.
I was thinking to have one water jacket around all the heatsinks. And that you should be able to reduce the heatsinks or even eliminate them entire
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frankvdh
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Developers
QuoteI don’t have a thermal imaging camera and my pension won’t stretch enough for me to buy one, so I’m trying to beg, borrow, or steal one.
You can buy NoIR cameras for the Raspberry Pi... basically an ordinary camera without the IR filter. I don't know how good they are at thermal imaging, but maybe worth a try? Maybe someone else here knows?
Some random thoughts...
I wonder about water-coo
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frankvdh
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Developers
Just a thought... if you're making the board expandable to allow 3 extra stepper motors to be controlled, make those extras plug-in stepper drivers. In which case, choose the embedded drivers to be the same as something that's currently available. I don't know whether that narrows down your selection or not.
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frankvdh
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Experimental and Hobby
Hi Charles,
I'm not familiar with the cooling fan multiplexor that you're talking about. Can you give a bit more context?
However, a multiplexor typically is a hardware device that allows any one of the outputs to be selected, so 000 would turn on fan 0, 100 would turn on fan 4, 110 would turn on fan 6, and 111 would turn on fan 7. Of course, you could have nothing connected to output 0, so tha
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frankvdh
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Tech-Talk
I agree with everything Dust said.
You can get cheap kits for much less than $600 from AliExpress. If you're lucky, you'll get a good one, but you will probably spend a lot of time tweaking (and money for parts) to get it to work, and it may never be really reliable. OTOH, you'll learn a lot about how they work.
But, rather than just buying a printer, think about what you want to make, especial
by
frankvdh
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General
Perhaps try a print with zero retraction, just to test out whether that's a factor.
Part cooling fan is irrelevant, but the hot-end cooling fan needs to be on all the time.
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frankvdh
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Printing
Quotejdebuhr
Thanks f the steeper drive overheats what is the fix, I have heat sinks on the modules on the Ramps board. I also have a Rambo board to try, but don’t have heat sinks for that one yet
A fan on the motherboard to cool them. Or bigger heatsinks. Also, I think, if your stepper drivers aren't adjusted to give the right amount of current, they will heat up more.
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frankvdh
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Printing
There are many reasons why a hot-end clogs.
Generally speaking, if it's time-related (e.g. it starts printing, and then stops after a few layers), then it's to do with heating and cooling.
It could be that heat is creeping from the heater up the throat, causing the the filament to swell and jam.
It could be that the extruder stepper is overheating, or or(more likely) that the extruder stepper
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frankvdh
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Printing
Instead of mounting them on the controller board, is there any reason not to mount them on the stepper itself?
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frankvdh
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Controllers
I don't know what Slic3r version you have, but older versions did have a problem where they truncated the G-code output if you exited too soon.
You can look at the G-code with any text editor... it should end with a bunch of comment lines beginning with semicolons.
I don't think there's anything special about Z-axis commands Slic3r vs Cura, so I suspect the Cura problem is something to do with
by
frankvdh
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Printing
Sorry, I can't see your video and the still image isn't quite clear... are these sockets spherical, or the typical countersunk profile? If spherical, I'd really like to give this a try... one of the weaknesses of countersunk is that there is very little surface area in contact, so the attraction force isn't great. Can you please give a link to (I assume) AliExpress for the sockets?
Incidentally,
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frankvdh
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Delta Machines
OnShape.com has a library of parts, and (because free accounts must make designs public) you can often find some-one else's design for a part.
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frankvdh
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General
For Inkscape there's an OpenSCAD extension:
You can then view or edit the object in OpenSCAD, and output an STL which you can slice with your favourite slicer.
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frankvdh
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General
Are you sure this is a Marlin problem, or PSU control problem? Does this happen at about the same time (which would suggest it's a heating issue) or the same XYZ location (which would suggest its a mecjanical issue)?
My first guess is that your heater cartridge wires are shorting, which drops the power supply voltage at the SSR enough to reset it.
by
frankvdh
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Firmware - Marlin