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Printing issues ...
Quotegarak
I wonder if one could glue nichrome wire on to the back of a piece of borosilicate glass?
Would high temperature epoxy work?
Would the expansion and contraction of the wire break it free?
I did some digging around yesterday after my original post, and found that Airtripper made a glass heated bed by taping nichrome traces to the back of the glass using nichrome tape:
http://airtrip
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General
Quotejm44807
i have wondered why they tell you to heat up extruder before torquing the nozzle. seems doing i cold would be better then when it got hot the expansion would make it tighter.
Different expansion rates between the aluminum, brass, and stainless steel parts maybe?????
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General
A quick search on "defroster" hasn't turned up any hits here or on the wiki, so I figured that this was worth asking.
Has anyone ever proposed or tried using conductive paint or etched traces placed directly onto the back side of the bed glass as an electric heater? It works for an automobile rear window defroster, albeit at lower temperatures. Could this technology generate enough heat for a
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General
Did you try re-flashing your firmware? Barring a better suggestion, it seems like a logical first step.....
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Delta Machines
Here's a recent discussion about trial and error heated bed PCB design:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,293302,319336#msg-319336
Some tips for making a heatbed from nichrome wire powered by wall (mains) power, as used in the BerryBot:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,311911,311911#msg-311911
I haven't searched the archives to see if anyone has ever proposed or tried etching traces di
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Controllers
Are you sure that the thermistor isn't loose in the E3D? Maybe a defective thermistor?????
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Reprappers
Why not just use a can of Sterno under the aluminum plate, like they use at hotel buffets to keep the food trays warm?????
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Developers
QuoteAndyCart
The biggest issue with changing an effector is heating up the hotend to be able to pull the bowden tube out and not burning my fingers in the process .
For the sake of your fingers, buy a length of PTFE tubing for each of your hotends and detach them at the cold extruder end.
I'm thinking about putting a mounting plate next to the cold extruder motor with the plugs for the hotend
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Delta Machines
Check the micro step jumpers on your electronics board.....
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Repetier
QuoteAndyCartBut I've now found this one that does away with the probe in favour of using the actual hotend. Seems like a more efficient idea. I'm currently reworking the attach points for the rods.
Mine just finished printing. I can't wait to get rid of the popsicle sticks and multi-function oscillating tool triangular sanding head that I have been using for an effector plate in my RepStrappe
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Delta Machines
Quotecrispy1I would guess that you did not properly seat the nozzle against the heat break inside the heat block. There must be a gap between the flat on the nozzle and the bottom face of the heat block. See step 2 of this pdf:
I made sure that the gap was still present after torquing the nozzle at 300C the first time.
When I brought it back up to 300C to torque it down again, I also noticed
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General
Quotebruce356
I know that E3D have been shipping the new smaller Semitec since November 2013, I bought mine from MakersToolWorks and they obviously still have old stock as I received my kit with the EPCOS 100k thermistor (2.5mm bore in heater block) so default table 1 would be ok.
It appears to me that MTW is making a substitution in the E3D "kit" they are shipping. If you look at the official
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General
Stupid question - has anyone else had a problem with the brass block coming loose? I heated it up to 300C and torqued it down per the instructions when I put it together. This morning , I noticed that when sliding the calibration paper under the nozzle that the block was rotating freely on its threads! It has only run about 20 meters of PLA at 185C since assembly, and I thought that it was odd
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General
Quotejpan
I am wondering if that little screw adjusting current on stepper drivers (A4988 in my case ) will make any difference if they're turned by only 5 degrees of so. I mean, how accurate are those screws? Cuz now I am adjusting them within a range of 30 degrees in which the motors works better. Don't know if I should narrow this range more.
Do you have a multimeter? I'm guessing the answer
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Printing
Did you measure the filament diameter to see if it varies wildly over a few feet/meters? Could the problem be that the filament gets too narrow as the diameter changes for the extruder to get a good pinch on it and starts slipping?????
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Printing
As a Megatronics 2.0 owner who gets a headache trying to follow the nested "#ifdef hell" in ui.h fixing the support for this board and a full graphics display, let me throw in my two cents and say that I wouldn't be surprised if this was one or more conflicting #if statements unintentionally setting the wrong defines for this board/drive/extruder combination. Up until now, I was wondering if I w
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Repetier
You can rule out the endstops with an M119 command, which will display their status. If any are triggered, that axis might only move in one direction. One the cables arrive, trigger each endstop one at a time and verify that they are triggered with an M119 command.....
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Reprappers
Sainsmart apparently does not tweak their A4988 drivers to any consistent vref setting before putting them into baggies to ship. Of the six that I received, the vref varied from 0.28V to 0.36V. Ideal for my steppers is allegedly 0.40V, which is where I have them set now and it also cured my mis-stepped errors on one stepper. If you haven't done this yet, look up the directions for setting vref
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Reprappers
Old dishwashers used to have massive heating coils for drying. They got so hot that some people even used them for automobile engine parts washers to remove paint and grime from things like valve covers.
Modern Energy Star dishwashers do not have those energy-wasting massive heater coils, instead using tricks like heating the final rinse water to raise the internal temperature a few degrees to
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Printing
Delta printers only use one endstop per column...at the top...and they are wired to the MAX endstop pins. M119 and check the MAX endstop signals, and re-compile the firmware of there's only MIN endstops visible with M119. This mistake has bitten more than one person this week on these forums.....
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Delta Machines
If you want a professional-looking thermistor mount and not a kapton tape job, this not-so-popular option is out there:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modular-Screw-on-M3-Stud-Thermistor-for-Reprap-Prusa-3D-Printer-Hot-End-Hotend-/221312429218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item33873faca2
I cannot comment on if/how the extra mass of the threaded adapter will delay the temperature readings, bu
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Developers
I have seen a production bowden extruder that appeared to be nothing more than a NEMA 17 geared motor and mount plate, a knurled brass pulley on the stepper motor, a lever, small bearing for a pressure roller, and a spring to hold tension. Nothing that anybody couldn't slap together with a hand drill and some flat "L" brackets from a hardware store if they were desperate.
Let me serve as a warni
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Developers
Oops! Forgot to mention that I used Arduino 1.0.5-r2 on Windows 7 to build/install it.....
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General
Here is a link to my complete Marlin build from a few weeks ago for the Sainstore Megatronics 2.0 with the Sainstore version of the RRD full graphics 12864, along with the exact u8glib libraries that I used:
http://ae3.homelinux.net/marlin_megatronics2_lcd12864.zip
The U8glib folder was copied from my C:\Program Files\Arduino\libraries\ directory, and was downloaded a few weeks ago from the off
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General
What is the power draw on that behemoth? Can existing controller boards like RAMPS drive it without a relay and wiring it to wall (mains) power?
I'm not sure why the BerryBot designer chose to use nichrome wire heating elements on his big delta printer heated bed, but suspect that there was a reason:
Of course, my heated bed is powered by Sterno right now, so I'm not an expert in these thin
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Delta Machines
There is no reason to re-invent the wheel. Both the Marlin and Repetier firmware have already been developed to run a Delta printer, and both can be easily tailored to work on just about any Delta-type printer.
Although I am far from a guru with these products, Marlin seems to be more popular but Repetier has a neat web configuration program that makes building your first installation easier th
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Delta Machines
Are you referring to the Marlin or Repetier firmware that you can freely compile and install in your Arduino to run the printer? I *hope* that you aren't looking for Arduino libraries to write firmware from scratch.....
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Delta Machines
Use a USB smart phone charger "wall wart" to power the board via USB cable?????
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RAMPS Electronics
How about the steps per mm settings on your stepper motors? If that is off, it could skew all of the triangle math.....
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Repetier
Quotehercek
[If you are afraid of that then it should be possible to modify it so that it works like capacitive displacement sensor. It would be more expensive though.
If expense was a concern, I would have picked up a $299 printer kit from Amazon instead of spending three times more than that for the best-of-breed parts and design. I wonder if hotend heat would be an issue with a capacitive d
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Delta Machines