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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Removing a stripped screw on the hot-end - 8 years ago
I had a similar thing happen to me with my extruder motor, i was removing the plastic extruder parts and the m3 screw snapped right off, leaving the main part of the screw in the motor... DOH. I tried a few things, WD40 to loosen the screw a bit and pliers to grab and try to remove it... didn't work. Then I tried to cut a notch in the end with the dremel and use a flat screwdriver... The smallby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: E3D Titan Extruder model - 8 years ago
Nice! these should come in handy... Whats your opinion so far on the Titan?by Origamib - Look what I made!
Re: Are ABS fumes carcinogenic? - 8 years ago
I don't think anyone knows the answer to this? the actual burning of any plastic releases carcinogens, but heating it up to melting point is a different reaction. It is possible that the only fumes dissipated at 190-250c is only water vapour, but that's probably wishful thinking..... If you're worried, stick it the printer in a chamber with an extractor running. EDIT: I was wrong, turns out tby Origamib - General
Re: Please, this is the 7th try, how to awoid this - 8 years ago
I had a similar problem to you, large surface area prints in PLA would warp and actually lift the tape away from the bed. I'm using a cheap no-name brand of tape, and apparently using real 3M blue tape works much better. You could also try sticking the tape down by using PVA under the tape, or using multiple layers of tape as it will adhere to itself better than glass/aluminium. In the end, I sby Origamib - General Mendel Topics
Re: Marlin mid-print controls give strange error - 8 years ago
I started with repetier and found it worse for bugs to be honest.... Might be worth going back now I know more, especially since I used to use the online editor rather then just edit it via arduino softwareby Origamib - General
Marlin mid-print controls give strange error - 8 years ago
I've mostly printed from USB so havn't noticed this till recently, but when I print from SD and try to change the parameters mid-print (eg hot end temps, heated bed) it just goes comes up with the edit screen for flow, and then won't go back to the previous screen. It is not frozen and I can edit flow, but clicking the dial will not go back. Everything works fine if i'm not running a print Im usby Origamib - General
Re: Tarantula or this prusa i3? - 8 years ago
Unfortunately, you will always have to invest time in this hobby Even an off the shelf printer like the Taz/printrbot/ultimaker will need some tinkering to get fine quality prints. When I made my printer, I was completely new to the hobby. Building it took only a few days, but sorting out issues has taken a month. Building the machine is honestly the least of your worries, especially if you haveby Origamib - General
Re: Use paste for support material - 8 years ago
Paste extruders are big, and from my understanding hard to calibrate. Dual extruders already cut off a lot of printing space. How will it affect the surface quality? even PLA and HIPS leaves a mark. Apart from that... why not? To be honest, I havn't seen a need for supports that often. Most pieces can be made in multiple parts, or just designed better. Alot of people are very focused on gettingby Origamib - General
Re: Tarantula or this prusa i3? - 8 years ago
What are you planning to make with this machine? These cheap printers will have a lot of flaws, that you could probably talk about for hours. Save yourself the time and effort and invest in a better printer is my opinion. When you make all the improvements you need for these, you will easily double the price unless you're very savvy with sourcing parts. If you still need to choose between these,by Origamib - General
Z-axis upgrades - 8 years ago
So i'm currently running a V-slot aluminium extrusion style prusa machine and the results are pretty good, however i'm still seeing alot of banding. I've narrowed this down to a number of problems, eg, motor mounts, slack belts, DRV8825 missing steps and possibly my Z-screws. When I made the machine, I was a numpty and managed to order some tr8x8 4 start lead screws + brass nuts that were 100mmby Origamib - General
Re: Bed glue for ABS - 8 years ago
So you applied this at 100c, but printed at 60c? I've been looking for some new forms of bed adhesion for a while, as I like to print small parts usually that have overhangs close to the bed, and the combined heat of the heater and nozzle make the plastic too pliable, leading to a lot of curling and smooshing of the print (Technical terms....) I've had great success using ABS juice on glass/kaby Origamib - General
Re: Dual drive gear extruder - interest and experience - 8 years ago
It's an interesting idea that lower nozzle pressures may lead to lower mass of a printed item, does this also come with significant quality reductions to suggest missed steps and/or slippage? Or does it affect quality on a smaller scale? (eg, a more 'porous' extrudate?) Either way I think designing a test to account and control for these confounding variables would be very easy, and would certaiby Origamib - General
Re: Dual drive gear extruder - interest and experience - 8 years ago
I'm not sure I'd like a dual drive gear, mainly for issues with weight and size. My x gantry which holds the extruder/hotend is not exactly light, and at some point I'm looking for dual extruders. I don't actually use a spring for my extruder arm, instead I just tighten it with a screw and I havnt had any problems with slipping or chewing the filament. It does however crush ABS filament slightlyby Origamib - General
Re: Change hysteresis value because of thermal runaway issue - 8 years ago
I don't have a program for it, and anything in place like that would be circumventing the safety features of Marlin. These types of runaways usually only happen for me in the first 15 minutes of a print, so I just watch it and alter the temperature to stop. In reality though, having hardware that will maintain your temperatures well is probably much better. Have you insulated the hotend and bed aby Origamib - General
Re: Change hysteresis value because of thermal runaway issue - 8 years ago
Are you seeing thermal runaway on the heated bed, or the hot end? When I first installed 2x 50mm blower fans on mine, I would get thermal runaway of the hot end if I ran them at 100%. I found that I needed to run them at 50% and no higher. I recently insulated the hotend and this is no longer the case. My heated bed only has thermal runaway issues if the temp is set to 110c or higher. This is mby Origamib - General
Re: Driving a 2A stepper motor - 8 years ago
I use 2A motors and DRV8825's, and I could not run them at full, even with a huge fan blowing on them all the time. When I turn this fan on, it makes a draft that I can feel on the sofa while watching TV 10ft away.... I havn't got an enclosure around my electronics though, and this may aid the cool air onto the drivers better, and make me less cold.by Origamib - General
Re: What RepRap parts would you be interested in buying in a brick and mortars store? - 8 years ago
Lots of sizes of bearings / pulleys / idlers... If I need these, I end up buying multiples as it works out cheaper per piece, and then have lots lying around I don't need (eg, 1 will cost £2.50, but 10 only costs £5/6)... would be great to pop to a shop and just buy one piece at a set price. "waiting for parts but need them now" is just the story of my life..... Using this logic, you'll have toby Origamib - General
Re: SC Card RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller - 8 years ago
Try different SD cards, my panel was quite fussy with which card it would accept. Luckily I ended up with a working match, a Samsung 8gb microsd in a converter. Also try inserting the card with the machine off completely, and then turn on. I'm not too happy with the SD function on mine... This may be a due to it being a Chinese knock off, or the SD card being a bit old. Make sure you format the cby Origamib - General
Re: E3d titan extruder - 8 years ago
Anyone had any experience with this extruder yet? I'm seriously tempted to get one of these. I've only had experience with direct drive printed extruders off thingiverse (non-geared), so the idea of an affordable high precision extruder sounds great. The only thing putting me off is that they don't have a mirrored version so that you can have a dual extruder set up with a nice minimal carriage sby Origamib - General
Re: Boro glass question. - 8 years ago
Perhaps a dumb question, is it flat on the other side? Maybe the bump has always been there, but you printed on the other side of the glass originallyby Origamib - General
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass - 8 years ago
Thanks for the reply Currently looking at a 200x200mm bed (Standard mk2b heater size), mainly because its cheap! I managed to pick up a good quality one for about £4. I wasn't really that fussed to have a heated bed at the start, I figured it would be my upgrade later on once everything else was fine-tuned. But of course, reprap has given me ideas.... I only worry for the thickness as I don't wby Origamib - Developers
Re: Aluminum Sheet Between Heater and Glass - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 QuoteMechaBits I'm sold on the cast alu plate, but it is tricky here in the UK, ebay are skewing results for sure, maybe they dont want us to have the manufacturing good stuff here in the UK, for fear of what we'll make with it. See EcoCast here: . Ahhh great link!! Searched for something like this for ages the other day! I'm now turned to using one of these, seems like a great idea.by Origamib - Developers
Re: V-slot Prusa i3 - 8 years ago
Son of MegaMax has already been the source of much inspiration! Core XY is great, although it adds more complexity which I'm not sure can be achieved as easily with 'off the shelf' parts. most designs I see tend to use some form of printed part. It also adds a higher cost for the frame.by Origamib - Reprappers
V-slot Prusa i3 - 8 years ago
I'm new to 3D printing... I have nearly gone and bought a cheap kit multiple times, but each time I have to stop myself because I know for a fact that I'm basically going to rebuild it almost completely with upgrades. So, despite having never worked with 3D printers, I've opted to design and make my own. I don't own a lot of tools, so the build criteria is to be (relatively) cheap and use partsby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: Best $500 3d printer? - 9 years ago
Sorry to hijack, anyone had any experience with the Wanhao duplicator i3? that is ridiculously cheap....by Origamib - General
Re: First time reprapper - 9 years ago
Thanks for all the great advice so far guys! Folger Tech is a great option, but not really available in the UK. Also, the budget is not that constrained as £400 is about $600, So there is no need to go for $300 budget machines I think so upon narrowing down the choices a metal Prusa i3 kit from eBay is around £400, whereas an Ormerod 2 will work out at £500. For all the benefits that brings iby Origamib - Reprappers
Re: First time reprapper - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 I have an Ormerod 1 and a Kossel (originally a Mini Kossel, but now enlarged). The Ormerod 1 works well and has dual extrusion - although I had to upgrade several parts to get the best out of it - but the Kossel works better, and prints faster for the same print quality. I am a firm convert to delta printers. I don't agree that delta architecture adds complexity to the build - IMO it sby Origamib - Reprappers
First time reprapper - 9 years ago
so, I've been looking at 3D printers for a while now and trying to make the seemingly impossible decision of what to go for! At first I settled on some of the 'off the shelf' solutions such as Printrbot, but then I discovered reprap and realised that you pay way too much for surprisingly little with the printrbot! The criteria i've set myself is to have a build area in the region of the printrbby Origamib - Reprappers