Show all posts by user
People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 8 years ago
Printable Pulley for 625zz bearingby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: ESP8266 Duet web interface for any board - 8 years ago
Quotetoxuin Quoterealthor Hi guys, so with Repetier we'll be able to use this with Mega/Ramps? Yes, just use the latest development version and select "Enable JSON formatted info out for ESP8266..." In the configurator. I have the stuff to make this happen. I will give it a shot.by madmike8 - Developers
Re: Can i buy a replacement mosfet at radio shack ramps1.4 - 8 years ago
Cough Cough... Sorry, when you knocked the dust and cobwebs off this thread it stirred up my alergies...by madmike8 - General
Re: Anyone know why HobbyKing seem to be abandoning eSun filament? - 8 years ago
My experience is the same as ElmoC's. If there is a tight bend in the feed, and I let it set a couple days it will snap. Other than that, its been great.by madmike8 - General
Re: Help me! How to use XBOX 203w psu with Sunhokey Prusa i3 - 8 years ago
David, there are few versions of the Xbox PS, did you have the 203W or the 175W? I also had one that wouldn't even run the Xbox360 for long... So you might have a weak/failing one too... Then again... I could just have a rare strong one... who knows... I also have a printer running a Mk3, but that one is the one I have the Dell DA-2 USFF PS on. I probably only have 5 months on that one so far..by madmike8 - General
Re: Help me! How to use XBOX 203w psu with Sunhokey Prusa i3 - 8 years ago
I've been running an Xbox 203W PS for Hotend and Kapton Heater on Heatbed for about 10 months now with no problems. A cheaper PS that puts out a few more watts is a dell da-2 usff ps that does 12V@18A. Its about the same to wiring the xbox one too.by madmike8 - General
Re: Anyone know why HobbyKing seem to be abandoning eSun filament? - 8 years ago
The HK USA East warehouse still has stock.by madmike8 - General
Re: Martin_H's Tantillus build. - 8 years ago
On the Bowden Tube, without causing bad angles, try to get the tube as short as possible. If the tube is short and doesn't twist up, then you really have no problems with Bowden tube extruders. On my Funbots that have a Bowden Tube length between 300-400mm I use a retraction setting of 2.5mm with good results.by madmike8 - Tantillus
Re: Is there any best practices for smooth rod diameter per hanging length? - 8 years ago
Have you thought about tubes instead of solid rods?by madmike8 - General
Re: aluminum profile 2020? - 8 years ago
Here ya go. Goopy Plastics Tantillus Variant Goopy Plastics Tslot Tantillus Github Filesby madmike8 - Tantillus
Re: Which stepper for TR10x2 leadscrew - 8 years ago
How many starts does your leadscrew have? A TR8 has 4... TR8 Leadscrew 2mm pitch 4 starts steps per mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / thread_pitch*starts If the TR10 also has 4 then... .09 Stepper + 32 microsteps driver steps per mm = (400*32) / 2*4 steps per mm = 12800 / 8 steps per mm = 1600by madmike8 - General
Re: P3 Steel - 8 years ago
i3 Steel frame kits available on ebay for much cheaper.by madmike8 - General
Re: ESP8266 Duet web interface for any board - 8 years ago
I've got a few of these. I'm wanting to make a basic web server that you select a gcode file and it transfers it to the Ramps Controllers SD card and then starts the print from the printer's SD card after successful upload. If I'm able to get that to work, and then I might try to have it look for the M140 gcode and start preheating the bed before transfering the whole file. All else fails, I'llby madmike8 - Developers
Re: ESP8266 Duet web interface for any board - 8 years ago
Can you adjust it to send a file to the sd card on the controller instead of the 8266? And it doesn't work for RAMPs?by madmike8 - Developers
Re: What qualifies a hot end a "good" hot end? - 8 years ago
I've gotten about 5 Chinese style metal hotends. All with the PTFE liner. All print well. A couple weren't machined properly in the top half. the filament would coil under the Push to fit fitting instead of being guided into the nozzle. I printed out a guide that goes between the hotend and the Push to Fit to stop this. After that it works properly. That being said, I will probably buy the E3DLiby madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Extruder for a first time user? - 8 years ago
I've gotten about 5 metal cheap Chinese hotends from 3 different vendors between $8-$15. They all look the same on the outside, but the machining is different between the vendors with the cheapest being the best (oy). For a couple I had to print a filament guide that is threaded in below the push to fit fitting because there was too much space and no cone machined on the bottom to guide the filamby madmike8 - Mechanics
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 8 years ago
Working from memory... 3 Yellow Larger wires +12V, 3 Black Larger Wires Ground, Small Blue Wire +5V. Tie 5V to Gnd to turn on Powersupply. I use a switch for that. It Powers the Funbot, Hotend, and Kapton Bed Heater just fine. You can also use a USFF Dell Power Brick in the same way. Kapton Heaterby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 8 years ago
The M8 version of the Funbot first print. Funbot M8 First Print Videoby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: steps/mm dilemma: is more than 0.1mm/microstep necessary? - 8 years ago
I just was just trying to show a leadscrew example instead of belt. Half step would be higher torque than microstepping. You could use Full Steps at 0.04mm per step, but you would have to use .08mm(2 steps) or .12mm(3 steps) layer heights. It would be easy enough to try to see the results.by madmike8 - General
Re: steps/mm dilemma: is more than 0.1mm/microstep necessary? - 8 years ago
Following your thinking... TR8 Leadscrew 2mm pitch 4 starts steps per mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / thread_pitch*starts 1.8 degree stepper motor ran in half steps with a TR8 Leadscrew would be 50 steps per mm with each step being 0.02mm. 5 steps would give you 0.1mmby madmike8 - General
Re: New Printer with bigger printing size than the DIY kit - 8 years ago
2x 200x200 heatbeds placed end to end with a 200x400 piece of glass/aluminum placed over them would work. Your going to need to think about powering them. The 400mm Y axis, you might think about some supported linear rails.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 8 years ago
M8 version of the Funbot nearly ready to print. This one has an inductive sensor for bed leveling. Funbot Autolevel Videoby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 8 years ago
The rods should be pretty tight. I normally have to tap them down into the base. I drill the mounting template with a 3mm drill bit then I turn the base over and use a 6mm drill bit to drill about halfway through the board. This makes it possible to use a bit shorter screws. Sorry bad pic as I had drill this one for my other project, and redrilled it for the M8 rod version. But I hope it helps.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 8 years ago
I'm willing to help. Can you get pics to clarify what your talking about? The Z base uses long screws. Three screw down through the base and tightened with a nut. Then the others screw up through the base into the Z axis stepper (you remove the screws in the stepper). Which ones did you strip?by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Tinpau's SmartRap - A first 3d printer build - 8 years ago
I can't wait to see your first prints...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: plastic (composite) frame for reprap printers? - 8 years ago
I like the large tube idea.by madmike8 - General
Re: SAE Z-axis Steps per MM
- 8 years ago
Btw, after drinking coffee and rereading, that makes good sense.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: SAE Z-axis Steps per MM - 8 years ago
Edit: Crap, I totally read that wrong lol... Please ignore... With lead screws you have a thread pitch and how many thread starts there are. steps per mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / thread_pitch*startsby madmike8 - Reprappers